[Bernard]

As long as we don’t have to pay government prices, that sounds good… 😀

[Bernard]

Art I’m wondering same thing.

[Bernard]

Billl you are assuming a guy that screwed this up used colored wires.

[Bernard]

A threaded piece that works similar to a rivet but gives you a mechanical spot to thread in a same fastener, best part is it remains permanent and the screw can be removed and reinserted. They work for me…often

Hugh

1998 Liberty new guy

[Bernard]

Thanks Jerry.

[Bernard]

I’d advice against financing a ’96 Prevost. Agreed value insurance will be expensive if you can get it. In addition, you can easily spend 20% of your acquisition cost on maintenance in the first couple of years just on consumables (batteries, tires, air bags, shocks, etc, etc).

[Bernard]

I was in Prevost Houston two days ago to pick up a set of front disk brake pads and it appeared their business was quite slow.

[Bernard]

Don:

Thanks for the post, good stuff. Worked on cars and smaller trucks, interesting to to learn about the bigger stuff. Not sure my old back and bal.. would make it through the repair. Your shop and work is meticulous. Do you hire out LOL.

Chuck

[Bernard]

I have the same issue in my 1984. It has been suggested that I rebuild the main water valve by the heater core, but I haven’t gotten around to that yet. They can apparently get gummed up and stop opening when it calls for heat.

[Bernard]

Reese…

I think Jon meant for you to add your coach details to your signature.

Didn’t you buy a Newell Coach?

Cheers, Diane

[Bernard]

After thinking more about this problem, I don’t think the Liberty exclusive rose petal dispenser is the cause.

Questions for Chuck …

1. Did you have the fresh water pump on when this happened?

2. Do you have the valves open in the water bay that allows the DD engine coolant to flow through the water heater and heat the water?

3. Does it look like a previous owner or tech might have modified the plumbing system?

4. The water heater has a high pressure/high temp release valve, it’s in the side of the water heater near the top. The valve’s outlet should be connected to a pipe or hose that discharged under the coach through the floor of the water bay. Is that still the case? Or is the hose directed somewhere else?

If you can answer these questions, it will help us give you some ideas.

[Bernard]

Anyone wanting a 40′, the above coach used to be mine, it’s an excellent bus.

[Bernard]

not sure on your conversion… but yes on ours and most I am aware of if you are connected to shore water you do not need to run your pumps. We only run the pumps when we don’t have shore water or when it’s too cold outside to stay connected.

Bill

[Bernard]

I will state a couple of obvious things relative to cleaning the underside.

First, to do that you need to get under the coach. Never ever under any circumstances get beneath a coach unless the chassis is supported under the correct chassis support points, or it is raised on a safe whole bus hoist or unless it is over a pit, in which case the chassis still requires support. Please be aware of the danger associated with getting beneath a coach.

Next, consider cleaning the underside a never ending, no reward task. The underside of our coaches will never remain clean. The first rain after cleaning starts the process of reverting back to dirty and the grit, debris, and crud from the road accumulates again quickly.

But, there is aa lot of merit in getting beneath the coach and doing a detailed inspection and some cleaning. Apart from the typical crud from the road which we cannot prevent there are specific areas where relatively clean conditions are valuable. The accumulated grease and dirt around joints which are grease should be removed and not allowed to come back. The grease fittings themselves need to be clean before lubing a joint so that cleaning, along with cleaning any over greasing from around the joint rubber dust boot or cap enables you to inspect the condition of the dust cap as well as insuring when grease is added you are not pumping in dirt along with the grease.

There are a lot of coaches with torn or missing dust caps or boots because of over greasing and keeping things clean allows the guy doing the greasing to see slight movements of the rubber cap to know grease has gotten in the joint and to stop pumping. Pumping grease until it drips doesn’t do anything except damage the rubber boots.

Under the coach there are numerous places you want clean and dry with no evidence of grease or oil leaks and if there is an accumulation of old grease or oil it makes it difficult to know you have a leak. Clean around the hubsm the seals at the differential, the transmission, oil pan, and anywhere else you see evidence of leaks. Nothing on our coaches should have fluids leaking. There are numerous places we need to be able to see evidence of leaks early and if there is accumulated black oil, built up dirt, etc. early detection is difficult.

Some filth is not preventable. If you lube U joints as required, the grease from them is literally slung in a big circle as the drive shaft spins. Anything within that plane of rotation over time is going to be splattered with bits of grease and that grease is like a magnet attracting and holding dirt, sand, grit, rubber bits and anything else kicked up off the highway. If you really are a clean freak and want the underside of the coach clean, be aware that is likely to be your biggest challenge and frustration.

[Bernard]

If the question is “What is OTR” it’s the big AC system run by the engine on your Prevost. This is the Prevost Compressor (Carrier O5G-Bus 41 CFM) on mine. Other systems on/in your coach are Electric AC systems. I have 3 Cruisair AC’s for the house.