Tom
Forum Replies Created
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Had to replace the foot rest transmission. Contacted Villa. They were a lot of help. If I remember correctly was about $50.
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Tom,
I am in the process of installing the SeeLevel system. The down side of the system is the sensor strips/senders will not work, i.e. transmit signals, when installed on stainless steel. I have made up two PVC standpipes, one for fresh water and one for black water, to which the senders will be installed. The standpipes will then be plumbed up to the tanks. I am toying with the idea of installing three consoles – one inside the coach, one in the fresh water bay, and one in the black water bay. Don Shapansky (donshapansky@sprintmail.com) at SeeLevel has been very helpful in this matter. As you can imagine, it is a tight fit getting the standpipes installed on this coach!
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Tough crowd!
My XL has the mounting hardware for the plastic shield, but no shield. If I could find a shield I’d install it until after we return from AK. Then I’d get rid of it.
Gil
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O.K. You did not use a buss bar directly connected to battery posts. You used common length cable segments to tie from the post to the buss.
Did you also equalize the the length of the cable from the buss to the inverter (i.e., load and charger)?
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I think this is indicative what we have in most of our coaches. and cables are of random, or convenient length
This is what you described as somewhat better………….
This is what you end up with if you bus with cable…………………….
Here is a more economical way to accomplish this with cables as well
Now, all of this does nothing to overcome the inherent differences in the batteries themselves and the batteries themseleves prevent addressing any difference between the cells. The only thing that this (installation of a buss) accomplishes is to equalized the opportunity for charge/discharge events to be equal down to thre level of the battery post. An important aspect of this is that the leads form the charger and load points to the taps for the strings in the bank must also be of equal length.
What we fail to do is to manage at the level of the individual battery. For this, we need a Battery Management System (BMS). Such a system would supply charge regulation at he level of the individual battery and load balancing across all batteries and all strings in a bank. Additionally, it would be able to monitor for dead cells and actively isolate any given battery based on failure of an individual cell (and a monitor or alarm might be nice as well). Something like Powecheq? – might be usefull
Sorry for the rambling. You touched on something that has had my attention for a while. After months I finally know enough of this battery language to start over with some hope of success.
Also, the images are from a great web page owned and operated by SmartGuage Electronics. I think they are British.
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I have the updated plastic fan and it’s fixed.
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Tom, mine is a 86 and I always call Chicago for my parts. When I called just this past January they said it was in stock at Nashville, so it shipped out of there.
If I were you, I’d call them and ask them about Dale Juranek just ordering a radiator for 2700. He did give me little off, I think it list for 2895 or so.
Just an option if a recore goes like mine and the guys says he doesn’t want to touch your old one.
I’ll be back home at the end of next week if I can help you with part numbers or anything.
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George,
I took my H3-40 to Jake Baker at Transport A/C, Inc in Ft Myers (239 693-8211) for the same problem. He replaced the seal and whatever else needed attention. The whole thing cost less than $1K and I was very satisfied with the way we were treated.If you decide to replace the compressor, I suggest you google the Carrier O5G -41CFM. I think you will find a remanufactured unit for around $1500. Be warned that is is a heavy piece and you will still need a pro to do the installation.
Good luck
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That’s coach # 1975 and yes, she has a new owner as of last week. If you think the outside looks good, you should see the interior. 2013 Millennium Triple slide
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Have the same issue with my coach with gen set and motor running before I got OTR working. Light would flicker when engine and gen set running. I would isolate battery bank and light would go out. I have 2 vanner chargers in engine bay.
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Tom,
I kind of thought you had a single alternator. For simplicity, you
may be further ahead to just do the cut-off that separates the gen
supplying the inverter/charger and chassis while running at the same
time as you first mentioned. Or you could disable the charge function
on your inverters when on the gen while driving and just let the
alternator take care of the both the house and chassis. To solve your
concern over losing an inverter, you may want to think about an
inverter by-pass.I forgot, who’s on first!!!
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Big Rig Best Bets and you are sure to fit, BUT there are many places to go where you will not find a recommendation from them. Sooooooooo we have scrounged through recomendations and looked up places on other Forums, but you can never be sure what you will find.
We have a process that may work for you, not 100% reliable, but then we look at each other and say we tried.
Close to your route find the area you want to overnight, go to RV Park Reviews on the web and look at what there is available, read the reviews and look for the ammenities and make the first weed out, look at the location map of the chosen park and study the; tree cover, park layout, road width, site size and density etc in detail.
If you still like it go to that RV Parks web site and study it in detail looking at all pictures and note the type of Rv’r that is predominently there. There are little indications/hints that you will pick up over time and through mistakes shuch as if the web site is crapy so probably is the RV park.
If you still like the park, call them and as questions such as, what % of your rental is for trancient workers, is there good Verizon Phone Service, do you offer cable TV, do you have WIFI, do you have pull through sites, can we park the toad at the site, can we drive through the park with the toad connected, can you handle a Big Rig… I mean would a Greyhound Bus fit your park, are the sites level, etc and on and on……….. IF YOU GET A HESITATION OR SILENCE TO A QUESTION BEFORE THE ANSWER move on to the next park. PARK REPRESENTATIVES WILL OFTEN LIE TO GET YOU TO COME. MANY THAT ANSWER THE PHONE ARE WORK CAMPERS AND DO NOT HAVE REAL KNOWLEDGE ABOUT THE PARK. IF ASK FOR THE MANAGER/OWNER.
If you still like the RV Park, look them up on GOOGLE EARTH and look at the park again in detail, then take youer chances, have a back-up park just in case you need it, it’s still a 50 50 crap shoot.
Oh yeah, ask about the roads leading to the park and what is the best way to arrive. Often there are weight and height restrictions on approach roads.
Price is not a good guide, we have found many inexpensive GEMS and many OVER PRICED DUMPS!
Remember, GOOD JUDGMENT comes from EXPERIENCE and EXPERIENCE comes from MISTAKES, or something like that. We have made many, they are the MEMORIES.
Finding a good RV park is one of the most difficult parts of RVing.
Good Luck, JIM
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I am happy to report that the RV Plus card works well.
Our first use was while driving the diesel powered Excursion. We pulled into the RV pumps at Flying J in Toledo, OH, used the card as prescribed and even got a receipt at the pump.
Haven’t tried it at the “Big Boy” pumps yet but will do so soon.
Thanks PC for the gift card, it works even better!
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Dale,
Thanks for the info. I will do the labor myself as well. It is the $2700 part that gets me!! By the way, what did the new radiator do for your temps??? -
Mine only has about 2000 hrs. on it. I’ve fixed afew things too. It’s a little like keeping the space shuttle working I think. I know the previous owners and that really helps. They’re great people and know the coach as they owned for 5 years.
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I’ll just keep on guessing on anything over four letters then. Just bear with me.