Forum Replies Created

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  • Robert

    Member
    August 27, 2014 at 7:03 pm in reply to: Educate Me – 20kw generator

    Actually the 20K is rated for 83 amps and will do more,my liberty uses a Telemecanique 80 amp contactor which has a 110 volt coil to pull it in.

  • Robert

    Member
    August 26, 2014 at 9:48 pm in reply to: Daytona Area Parking

    Thanks Tradewinds! Wish I had known that before I paid in advance. We will come see you next time, maybe for Bike Week.

    A friend of mine just had some repairs done at your place, and was very satisfied.

  • Robert

    Member
    August 25, 2014 at 6:12 pm in reply to: How to Test Thermal Breakers

    Thanks. Ordered a new on and will test before I install – just to get a baseline.

  • Robert

    Member
    November 23, 2013 at 6:55 am in reply to: Alicia Needs More Work

    I love the fuel card program! As Jon pointed out it saves a great deal of time at the truck stop just not having to go inside and wait in line…twice. The card already paid for itself several times over. I save +/- $15 per stop.

  • Robert

    Member
    November 22, 2013 at 7:09 am in reply to: Pic try since fix

  • Robert

    Member
    November 19, 2013 at 9:15 am in reply to: PC Spring Rally

    We’re in……we check out of Bryn Mawr on April 1 so we are going to try and book a site for that day and stay for the week. Can’t wait to soak up all the knowledge here and maybe a few beers to boot!

  • Robert

    Member
    November 19, 2013 at 7:13 am in reply to: 20′ by 50′ bus building

    your light bulbs (lamps) should be replaced every 2-3 years if you replace you will receive 100% more light. But it might be cheaper to buy new fixtures more effienct (t-8) because after 16 years your ballast will start to fail to costly to replace with the fixtures you have now.

  • Robert

    Member
    November 18, 2013 at 9:28 pm in reply to: Back Lights on Lighting control Panel

    I don’t have my Vantare schemetics at home with me. But I do know that the Vantare lighting panels use the DDP LED bulbs as refered to in the above response.

    These LED’s are two pin bi-colored (two colors, Red and Green). These bulbs only have two pins (case and center conductor), so the two LEDs are installed reverse of each other inside the package. In the drive circuit for the LED, they would use a voltage divider setup at the case of the bulb, and at the center conductor they would either supply 12VDC or ground. Depending on if the center conductor is driven to 12VDC or ground would determine if the LED is Green or Red.

    (edit) I looked at the schematics today. Well I should have known based on how these coach builders just
    love using solenoids :). In this case they used a Double Pole Double Throw solenoid where poles A1 & B2 = 12vdc and A2 & B1 = ground, C1 = LED center conductor C2 = LED case. When coil is not driven and in state 1 (A1/B1), C1 is 12vdc and C2
    is at ground driving the Green LED. When the coil is driven with 12vdc and in state 2 (A2/B2), the poles get reversed; C1 is at ground and C2 is 12vdc driving the Red LED.(edit)

    Vantare uses them to indicate the light circuit is powered on, the LEDs are normally Green when the circuit is not powered on, and red when it is.

  • Robert

    Member
    November 16, 2013 at 9:25 pm in reply to: Lights on Dash Guages

    You may have to unscrew the dash and get to it .. mine the top cover just pulls up for easy access , I had mine out the other day to change light bulbs , some of the gauges are a little darker than others , but the bulbs where working , did not check to see if the ones that are brighter had same bulbs as the ones that are a little darker… But easy to get to if you take a bulb out of the brighter one you can try that , In the darker one see if the makes it brighter ,they don’t work when you pull socket out of gauge on the speedometer , but when you touch it to gauge like you where going to put it back in the bulb works , I think it’s gets its ground from the gauge , at least mine does…. Hope that helps..:). Just went out to bus and my air gauges are a little dimmer than the others too couple others are like that too does not bother me.

  • Robert

    Member
    November 16, 2013 at 5:17 pm in reply to: cargo lights

    are 24 volt so will be on 24 volt red stack in either FJB or Rear JB re wire is 24 -V If I get chance tomorrow I’ll check Might ck your decal on fjb door. The docking lights are in a weird place though on some coaches behind the dash.. FWIW Bob

  • Robert

    Member
    November 16, 2013 at 6:57 am in reply to: To the home builder

    I have never done a conversion and never will. No patience, not sure I even have the skills.

    But on each of my coaches I got my satisfaction from tackling any project I wanted. If something broke, I fixed it. I did the maintenance, I replaced parts, I installed new flooring, I just never started with a blank canvas. I have a great deal of respect for all the guys on here that have made some serious changes to their coaches, guys like Rob and Bob and Ken and all the others that go way beyond changing the oil or lubing the chassis.

  • Robert

    Member
    November 15, 2013 at 8:06 pm in reply to: To the home builder

    To home builder, I think you are looking at a 1986 LeMirage. It looks very rough in the pics. If you want to tackle a basic rebuild, then go for it but be aware, you will have much much more in the coach than you will ever be able to get out of it. If it is the experience yo’re after, buy something newer that will have some resale value to work with after you’re finished. My suggestion would be avoid anything older than the mid 90’s.

    To Bob, what you and I and especially you with doing slides in your coach, want to do is have fun in the journey and be able to hold our heads high at the end with being able to accomplish a major conversion. Most, probably 90% or so, of the people looking at bus conversion should not be considering what you, I and home builder are doing simply because they do not have the skill set to do so. And please, anyone who reads this, please do not think I am talking down to you, that is not my intent but it does take the right kind of person to persist through a project of this magnitude. I grew up on a farm learning the “art” of fixing it yourself because it was a money thing that forced us to do so. This “art” gave me a skill set that has been invaluable in this project. Money is exactly what you also mention repeatedly in your posts that has forced your hand to do a home builder. But I have to tell you, I agree with Jon, you can find a very well priced professional conversion and do a remodel for less money than I will have in my coach which is not the case with yours because of the terrific price you were able to get yours for. My 91 will finish out near the $80K mark with a very nice but not pro conversion. You could buy a 91 coach put a new interior in it for $10K, new paint for $15K and still come in around the $70K mark having not spent 8 years completing it like I have. I have enjoyed the journey, I will enjoy my coach being finished so we can travel and I can fix just about anything on it because I know how it was put together but there is a price I have paid in 8 years free labor. Do I regret the labor, not one minute of it because of the sense of accomplishment and the problem solving skills I have developed during the process. I know you feel the same way about the sense of accomplishment. Do I want more people to tackle the “art” of bus conversion, you bet but they need to be the right kind of people so the “art” doesn’t get a bad name for itself.

    Enough rambling.

    Rob

    91 XL 40

    Missouri

  • Robert

    Member
    November 15, 2013 at 6:10 pm in reply to: Electrical Schematics

    schematics. go to prevostcar.com web site under wiring diagrams last letter in coach serial # plus last 4 numbers of serial number. will give you diagram for the coach as built by prevost but will not contain any modifications made by anyone else. Last letter will be year of manfacture last 4 didgets will be unit number You will also find air diagrams and much more there easy down load. Sometimes things changed from unit to unit. Bob
    Example mine is W 6553

  • Robert

    Member
    November 15, 2013 at 5:16 pm in reply to: Whats the best way to drain the fuel tank?

    The engine fired after only half a turn,i did air up the system first coz the belts. I ran it for about 5 minutes to move it about fifty feet so i could drain the holding tank, and then back in the barn. It ran fine. I am going to disconnect the line comming from the racor filter and connect a pump there and pump the tank or tanks out. If there is alge its my concern i think maybe to try to kill it before i drain so the residue might drain out with the fuel. When i refuel i will fill with new fuel and road test about 50 miles stopping every 10 miles to ckeck the racor filter. Later when i take the first trip i will add Lucus just before leaving so it wont settle in the tanks. Iam working on several things right now, I will add some cutoff valves on the air supply just for leaks that will popup later. All the lines feeding the driver air seat and on the seat itself were bad. One gas strut on every bay door were bad so i changed them all. I am still trying to learn more about the systems I will change the coolant and the transmission fluid next . Then the 3- D8 house batteries i am getting from Tom . My goal is to have the coach ready before the spring rally near Tampa. I would like to meet some of the people in this site.

  • Robert

    Member
    November 15, 2013 at 1:15 pm in reply to: Error when editing post

    I was and even signed out and came back in. Same thing.

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