Richard
Forum Replies Created
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Hey Richard! Do you know much about the Magnum ME-BMK?? Yesterday a rainy day I was reading that 1 ME-BMK can link to both of my MS-2812 inverters through the ME-ARC controller and will control Lithium battery charging?? Do you know much about that??
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Art…I’m thinking if it was a converter install it would not be in Prevost Parts Catalog…Just a thought.
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Fuse holder Amazon, Someone else on the forum saw it on Amazon also that’s where I got it from
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Sorry Art. Yes, what George said.
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I admit that on this topic I am clueless because my buses came with Liberty installed chargers and my use of them is extremely limited.
My bus is used between Labor Day and Memorial Day. The summer it sits in the garage, but I do not use the charger. Usually the batteries still have a sufficient charge when we hit the road, but if I do something that draws down chassis battery power I will use my battery charger which is a three stage charger.
I do know the charger cables do not go to the batteries and I suspect they might go to the equalizer cables but that is a guess.
I don’t even know if the charger is 12V or 24V so that will also affect how a charger is connected. I guess if I had to install the charger myself I would get a 24V three stage charger and connect it to the 24V terminal on the Vanner and the Vanner would balance the 12 and 24 volts as needed. I see no problem with the equalizer no matter how the charger is installed.
There is always DC power at the Vanner terminals and even if the bus is not running the Vanner always maintains the relationship between the 12 and 24 volt coming from the batteries.
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These guys are making it sound way too easy. There are some things you are going to need to be careful of like dropping things down never to be seen again. I replaced mine a year or so ago and this is how i did it: 1) lift the lid off the back tank and locate the red wire, Turn off the water, flush the toilet and disconnect the wire. The flapper will be in the open position. 2) Take a pick and put it in between the black seal and the light colored plastic door, there is a boss that locates the seal. Go around the seal and carefully pull it up off it’s base, being careful not to drop this gasket, or the tool, or your flashlight down the chute. 3) clean off the mounting flange with a flat scraper or screwdriver, mine was 30 years old and had calcium and other things attached to it. I used a soap and vinegar solution to soak the flange, and i went thru the hole and carefully scraped everything off. 4) take a small cup of water and splash it into the mounting flange to rinse it, you might need to do this a couple times, then let it dry thoroughly. 5) Take the new gasket, peel off the paper backing exposing the adhesive, and very carefully squeeze the gasket into an oval to fit it thru the hole and place it over the mounting boss and seat it on the flange. 6) plug in the red power wire, and the flapper will close. I let mine sit for 24 hours like this before i turned the water back on. mine has been installed for a year or so and i am really happy, a $300 and maybe 15 minutes of my time to fix.
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i see my signature disappeared. Well now it’s back!
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My Li are Relion, and although their literature said series and parallel connections were acceptable it turns out they were not and the problem was the BMS was unable to provide adequate charging to the set because of that so I now have all 24V in parallel with 24 to 12 volt converters.
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I’m halfway there. Got the back done. Front still on the back burner. All part of my overall project to upgrade from (re-engineer from) pneumatics where possible. With windows speed not an issue for me so much as the air drive is another place to have an air leak. Once I get it converted to electric, then I kill off the air feed at the source.
Been getting struts from Firgilli Automations. They have a good selection of sizes. Of course, the bigger, the more lift power – and those awning windows are heavy – but space limits what can be used. For the back windows went with a size just a little bigger than the air piston. A bit of a challenge to fit it in where the air piston was but doable. Hooked it to dpdt switch and tagged to the nearest dc power. Because of that fit challenge, plan to use smaller – but less powerful – actuator on the fronts along with assist from a gas strut as I have seen on other set ups. Have all the pieces now just need to find the time. Got the gas struts from Marathon and looked at other coaches to get the location of where to install them. I am not very smart but can steal a lot of ideas!
Hope this helps. Let me know if you need additional info. Probably told you more than you wanted to know! Mike
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Try Florida Detroit Diesel in Ocala Florida
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You need to press the 12v water heater button or 12v heat button which is in your closet probably above the toilet.
That opens the flow to run in cold weather to engage your heat registers and allow the hot water into the loop.
Press the 12v button.
Did you receive a Marathon book with your bus?
On my 07 I ran with the 120v water heater engaged constantly and always had hot water while under way and when parked that is what you want. I was probably not exercising my Webasto enough.
Later
bv
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Looked at Blue sea need high amp and to fit 4/0 lugs? Lug bolts have to be at least 1 inch apart, So what do you think of this, These bars are 400 amps skip a couple of lugs attach from both sides on both ends 2 batteries one 1 side and other 2 batteries oppose them and middle would be to positive on coach both Positive and negative from middle of both bars red and black??????????
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Blue Sea makes good stuff, all my fuse holders are Blue Sea.
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I know that, It was just a slip you can see on drawings it is parallel Oops
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So sorry to hear this, I live only miles away, was just chatting with Josh earlier this week.
I read on FB they intend to keep things going after taking some time to regroup.