Reagan
Forum Replies Created
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Can those bulbs be replaced with LEDs? or just you use incandescents. They get awfully HOT on long runs.
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On my ’90 CC it was in the second bay, driver side, behind a panel with a “High Voltage” warning.
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It is probably a good idea to check or replace the vent, but it won’t do anything for the tag axle he is having issues with….(g).
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I don’t have the part numbers at hand, but every seal I have replaced was consistent. A specifc seal for the drive axle and a specific one for the steer and tag axles. The same seals were used on all three of my coaches.
Prevost parts can supply the seals and you can get them locally, your choice. I was always able to source mine locally and usually they have been Chicago Rawhide brand.
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You guys better be careful. When Tim used to ask questions I think he encouraged answers from suspects with a length of rubber hose.
And lying to him I believe is a federal offense.
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All is okay on shore power. Will check inverters today. Thanks
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I’ll settle for what he has forgotten.
For newer owners who have not had the opportunity to meet or deal with Bill, he was responsible for all Prevost conversion service and maintenance. He recently retired and until such time he not only advocated for owners who had issues and helped tremendously, he has a depth of knowledge nobody possesses.
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Back in the day when Michelin 120/22.5 tires had steer axle edge wear, and even some cupping I relocated them to the drive and while it may have taken 30,000 miles the drive axle location did remediate the wear problems. I have not been able to do this since my coach has 315 and 365 tires but I wish I could.
BTW, If I do not trust a tire and a blowout is a concern there is no way that tire is going to end up on any axle or location on my coach. That could be due to age, an unusual wear pattern or visible cuts from a road hazard. A tire is cheap compared to the potential consequences of a blowout.
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You didn’t buy from me Geo, sniffle, sniffle, I’m hurt….
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Thank you for the reply, I only get about 4 weeks before i have to boost the battries and that is with all masters in the off position, so it looks as if i have some hunting to do to find the source of the drain. I have been working to replace and restore everything to the orignal specs but it can be challenging, thanks everyone
Darrell and Malia
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Until I got the XLII I had to replace the speedometer / odometer on my previous coaches. They have been so unreliable Prevost actually has a kit for replacement. The digital display was supposedly the replacement for the drum type odometer version. One Prevost owner did put the old mileage in the digital display but he had to build a “pulse” device to give it a signal and if I recall it took a long time (days or weeks) until it got to the desired mileage.
On both of mine I just made a log book notation of the miles shown when I replaced the originals. Anything will work such as a tag with the miles near the driver’s seat or noted on a label in the engine area.
The mileage is always retained in DDEC.
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I am still not clear on what is going on, and in fact somewhat confused.
If something tripped the GFCI outlets in the front and rear would go off, but the rest of the inverter circuits are likely to remain powered. I don’t think the other 120V devices on the Liberty inverter circuits have a GFCI. That means the TV, microwave, water pump, aux compressor and refrigerator would all still have power.
The only thing I can think of right now that would shut down inverters (if in fact they were shut down) is overvoltage from the bus alternator, and if that was the case the dash should have a warning light and the gauge would show it, except it might not read that high.
So in summary I am still not completely clear on what is going on because my starting point would be to find out where there is power, where there is not, what voltages are available and where. I understand why Jeff wants to have you turn on the microwave fan, but initially I would be happy just knowing what circuits will get a little green light in the electric panel, and under what conditions like generator on or off, shore power on or off.
I do agree if ther is no indication the inverters are either charging the batteries or passing through power the fuse on the face of the inverter should be checked.
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Tim – Mine are all original and our usual temp is 78. Don’t pay any attention to Jon or Jeff, being in east TN they love cold weather and when summer comes, the crying and complaining begins. If you visit Jon’s bus, bring a sweater. Jeff’s office is set on 65 and poor Britney has to wear a coat.
Diane – 68, bbrrrrrrrr
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The only time the valves are used is when the conditioning filters are changed. I agree with Jeff and would take a 1/4 turn so to tighten the packing glands. But at the next cooling change I would also change those valves. A small internal leak that causes a small drip when changing the filters is not a big deal, but one leaking coolant out of the system when it isn’t supposed to is not good, expecially if you have pets that might be tempted to lick the coolant from the pavement.
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Thank you Jon, that was helpful. The system is empty of freon but not of oil. Going to leave it as is for the boys in Quebec. For the hose that is leaking, I could not find the end of it on the evaporator side. So I’m going to let them swap it. We scheduled the Quebec run six months ago, so this fits. Our route will be north through Green Bay and on to Sault Ste Marie where we cross the border. Hopefully this is the cool way to go but we can run genny and cruise airs if need.
I think the sequence is
1) drain oil
2) swap hose
3) oil fill
4) vacuum to 29HG
5) fifteen minute wait test
6) charge 134a