Forum Replies Created

  • Paul

    Member
    January 14, 2014 at 10:34 am in reply to: Webasto – Tango Uniform

    Thanks Peter, I know of that group, have found a tech in Raleigh that says he is familiar with webasto has worked on aqua hot and hydra hot units, When I get to the bus tommorow I will see what the problem is and go from there, thanks Gary

  • Paul

    Member
    May 2, 2013 at 7:57 am in reply to: roof vent

    New fans come with screens that just pop off no more screws to take out to clean screen or fan blades. Some of the sky lite domes take different sealers some of the sealers will eat sky light domes can’t remember what kind it is I will think of it and let u know

  • Paul

    Member
    April 24, 2013 at 8:40 am in reply to: Can a Dyno test ruin your tires?

    Barney.

    Out of the thousands of coaches owned over the years by members of this site I would guess the number that have been on a dyno as a condition of sale you could count on your fingers of the left hand. If I am wrong I suspect there will be replies.

    If you have never driven a Prevost coach you are like all of us on our first driving experience.

    Let me suggest this for consideration. Arrange for a test drive. Make sure it is of long enough duration for the temps to get to normal, and if possible include a very long steep climb. Not a fraction of a mile, but one that is 5 or six miles long and at least a 5 or 6% grade.

    The coach should start without hesitation. It should idle smoothly without smoke. You may see a puff of smoke upon starting but it should clear. Depending on the engine / transmission combination the gauges are going to show normal values. During the drive pay attention to those gauge readings. When you are driving the engine should run smooth. The transmission shifts should be smooth.

    When under a prolonged load (such as climbing a grade) the coolant temps should cycle up and down. If they continue to climb you may have a problem.

    If the coach you are driving is a Series 60 equipped coach it likely has the 6 speed Allison. That transmission has particularly smooth shifts. Sometimes only the tach is the indication of a gear change. But if the transmission is in performance mode (you will see an indication on the shift pad) shifts will be noticeable and the coach will hang in gear longer and downshift sooner.

    Normal readings for a Series 60 are temperatures to cycle from around 204 to 208. The engine computer engages the low speed fan at 204 and the high speed fan at 208. If the fan clutch is locked up (not good) the engine thermostat will cycle around 195.

    Oil pressure at highway speeds should be around 40 PSI when the engine is warm. Transmission oil temps should track engine temps except when the retarder (if equipped) is engaged.

    Under full throttle acceleration you should be able to peg the turbo boost gauge.

    Voltages should be around 27.5 when the engine is running.

    Air pressures should peak at 120 to 125 and cycle back on at 100. You should not see them cycle up and down significantly. Before you begin to drive you should (or have the owner) do a DOT brake check. If the owner or seller does not know how be concerned. You should learn how to do one just in case.

    If everything checks out and you are still not sure, then arrange for the dyno check.

    There are so many other things to inspect a dyno check is low on the priority list. But having the codes checked and doing a full coach (including the house) inspection is far more valuable. That alone is going to take at least a couple of days.

    http://prevostcommunity.com/articleDetail.asp?ID=86

    http://prevostcommunity.com/articleDetail.asp?ID=85

    http://prevostcommunity.com/articleDetail.asp?ID=16

  • Paul

    Member
    April 22, 2013 at 9:10 pm in reply to: Adding Antenna

    Bill

    I am converting a 1991 XL 40 from a seated coach to a MTH version. I have been at it for 7 years on weekends, evenings and any other time I have. I have penetrated the roof for satellite cables, black tank vents, skylite, etc. The key, just as Jons’ sage advice said, measure at least twice and drill only once. Here are some other things to think about before you get to that stage. Most antennas have a threaded mast that penetrates through the skin and then a cover, usually plastic, that slides down over that somehow. Separate those and seal each stage of the process. For example, the center threaded mast usually has a disk about 1/2-3/4″ up from the bottom of the threads. Cover that disk with clear silicone on the underside that will come into contact with the coach skin and fill the hold you drilled with a “gob” of silicone, then shove the threaded mast through the hole. Hold it in place while someone on the inside threads on a fender washer with the right size hole to slide up the threaded mast and come into contact with the inside coach skin, then screw on the the nut and tighten it. There should be enough silicone in the hole in the “gob” that you should not need to coat the fender washer that comes into contact with the inside coach skin, but if not add just a little bit more to it. The fender washer, rarely supplied by manufacturers, just gives a little more support and sealing power. The fender washers are available at hardware stores like Ace for 50-60 cents. Then coat the top of the disk with silicone where the mast cover meets the outside antenna disk and tighten it down. BTW, it is always better to buy a fender washer with a smaller hole and drill out the proper size hole to go over the threaded mast than to buy one with to big of a hole and have it wobble around the threaded mast. Now, “Let it sit and dry for 24 hours”. Once dry, come back with a sharp pin knife and trim away the silicone around the mast cover. DO NOT pull it away!!! It is not hard and will not leak if you take your time and seal each stage of the process. In another 3-5 years, depending on how much time your coach is in the sun and how the roof is washed, run a small 1/8″ size bead of silicone around the mast cover on the outside, let it sit for 24 hours, then repeat the sharp knife trim again to make sure there are no pin holes that have developed.

    HTH

    Rob

    91 XL 40

    Missouri

  • Paul

    Member
    February 11, 2013 at 7:39 am in reply to: gear set change?

    I merged these two threads, so the replies may be out of order, but at least they are all there.

    Tom

  • Paul

    Member
    February 7, 2013 at 9:59 pm in reply to: 2001 XLII towing capacity

    I did have the engine cradle changed in February 2012 on my 1995 XL. I had it done at Prevost Nashville. It was a huge job but took me from 10,000/1,000 lbs to 20,000/2,000 lbs. I do not remember the exact cost. It is probably posted on the forum some where. I do remember that their estimate was right on target.

    During the winter I am towing a 2500 lb car but the rest of the year I pull a trailer. I was upgrading trailers in 2012 and in order to do so I had to do the upgrade. I was not willing to take a chance on the damages that were sure to come from exceeding the limits.

    I am glad I made the change.

    DKO

  • Paul

    Member
    February 7, 2013 at 8:26 pm in reply to: Help Flat Tire

    auto checkers as i call them screw on valve stem and send a wireless preasure reading to screen on your dash

  • Paul

    Member
    February 6, 2013 at 4:46 pm in reply to: New Nashville Prevost manager

    Over the years we had dealings with Prevost service in NJ, TN and FL. All were uniformly excellent in the quality of the service and how we were treated as customers. A few years back (and after I was doing all my own work) various forums and personal conversations seemed to indicate the quality of the service had gone down.

    Recently however for a variety of reasons I have again had personal experiences with Prevost service in TN and FL and I am happy to say the experience has been as good as we had experienced in the past.