needtocamp
Forum Replies Created
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After much discussion we have deceided that 48″ depth is the best compromise. For oil changes and lube it would be better to be deeper. For leak checks,norgren valves, shocks ,air bags and general inspections less would be better. Add in my neighbor is 5’2″ and I am close to 6′ , we deceided 48″ is the best “compromise.
However, we are thinking 24″ width seems a little narrow. The distance between the rear duals is approx 4.5 ft. The center to center of the rear jack points is approx 43″. If we make the width 30″ it will place the jack/jackstands just to the outside of the vertical wall . This puts the base of the jack (s) in approx 3″ from the edge of the wall of the pit .
Does this make sense ? Also, we plan on a 2X2x1/4″ angle iron embedded in the concrete on the inside edge of the pit to protect the concrete and allow for rolling tool trays etc.
As you can tell we are still in the design phase so any and all input is certainly welcomed!
Michael -
Check at the vanner and see if you have 24 and 12 volt correctly there. If you do not then it is the batteries or the wiring of the batteries….
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Who else ? All he needs now is a Vantare, then a American Carriage, then an AEC, then a Thompson, then a…..well you all get the picture.
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Well, you could be Camper Joe !
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Greg 2012 & newer ford 4×4 is flat towable, years before that had to have the transfer case stick in in the floor to be flat towed. ’11 & older need the manuel transfer case
I am not sure this is correct. My BIL has a 2012 and it won’t go into neutral. We tried a 2013 at the dealer I bought from and it wouldn’t either. Unless there is a different procedure to do it in those model years I am unaware of, I don’t think they will work.
I found out about it in the FMCA towing guide first, and then found the instructions in the 2014 F-150 owners manual, where they explained it quite well. It is in the table of contents too, so easy to find. Previous years towing guide have not indicated that the F-150 was flat towable.
If there is a way to tow the 2012 and 2013 flat, please post the details here so we will all know.
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Tom might have some insight because he had a chassis around your model year and he had some trouble getting air where he wanted it most. I don’t know the outcome of his efforts to fix that.
When I select a temperature on my coach I am done. I don’t have to push any other buttons other than perhaps the ones to put more air on my feet or to defrost the windshield. I do know I have to set the heat slightly higher in temp than the temp I select for AC to have that as comfortable as I want it. That might be due to the fact the heat from the dash has to overcome a lot of cold air spilling from the windshields
I am not sure if this is a Liberty feature or a Prevost feature, but when the coach senses the need for heat instead of AC I get a symbol on the display to show the Webasto is on. Since the Webasto was not turned on I am guessing the icon symbolizes that the Webasto circulating pump is functioning to insure adequate amounts of engine coolant are being delivered to the heat exchangers. I know the Webasto pump is on because if I step out of the coach I can hear it.
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The last bus pipes were not clear coated. I used a lot of copper cleaner on those pipes. Now those pipes on the current bus are OK (some spots starting to show) but they are coated so I have a project ahead of me in the future.
I could switch to the more mundane plastic pipes but if we ever have another bling contest I wouldn’t have a chance. Chrome plating would work. Hmmmmmmmmm.
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Nope, don’t use the chemicals either, but find it hard to believe there is any aggressive bug eating going on in our holding tanks when they’re emptied, flushed and cycled often while using the coach.
Those with a direct drop (discharge) to the black holding tank better not have the bathroom fan running when flushing, peeeuuuuu.
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My leak was from somewhere beneath the dash and I couldn’t see it although I did not take the entire dash apart. It was blowing out from under the center console portion so I ultimately blocked it with a piece of foam.
It wasn’t an issue when using AC, but it was a real problem trying to stay warm because it just blew cold outside air around my legs.
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Chuck,
I’ve checked that, it is closed. I think it must be like Jon said, an air leak somewhere.
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FWIW… when we bought our Vantare the batteries were history so we bought new Dekka batteries that saved us (so we thought) a bunch of $$$ …. they lasted 33 months and were useless… then thanks to Tom Chilcote we got new Lifelines at a great price delivered to our mechanic.
My point being when the batteries start going south a lot of wierd “stuff” starts happening… things not working like they should & so on… I thought we had some serious electrical problems, which all went away with the new lifelines so for that reason I would be very reluctant to change anything in the setup.
Hope this helps.
Cheers, Diane
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needtocamp
MemberJune 8, 2014 at 7:59 am in reply to: HELP!! First trip no charging off House AlternatorWith voltages of 80 or 90 I would look first at the main cable coming off your alternator. The one that is as big as your thumb. It has a sleave over the last few inches. The cable can break and the sleave can hide the break from sight. You can feel it though. This will cause eratic voltages like you are seeing.
I only know this because I had it happen to me. It may not be your problem but worth looking.
Davy
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Angola coaches of that vintage were very nice. Why the coach is listed as a Liberty suggests to me the coach has a damage history and the rear doors were pulled from a Liberty and it was easier to call it a Liberty rather than remove the plaque and fill the holes and rebuff the stainless.
Whether the seller knows the history or not really doesn’t matter because it is up to the buyer to do the inspection and verify the condition.
I really believe that coach started life as an OTR coach but the only way anyone will really know what it was is to take a close look at it. If you look at the drivers side view the third bay shows the intake vent in the door, plus the lack of a handle on that bay (same with the other side) is consistent with OTR equipped coaches.
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A long time ago we spent a night in a park on the sea wall in Beverly Beach. We had our 40 foot 87 coach.
At the time it was nothing but little white trailers parked so close to one another nobody could extend an awning. We got the last open space and when we drove down the row to get to our space it seemed like everyone followed us to see the “big bus”. The space was small and as I positioned the coach to back in I noticed we probably had 30 or 40 people standing around watching us.
I pulled ahead and backed it in the spot and it wasn’t a problem getting in the spot at all. However when I got out I found out several of the observers were betting if I could get it backed in. It was a time when there were very few conversions on the road and whenever we stepped outside folks would come over, ask questions and want to see the inside. We left the next morning. No privacy.
Seeing the photo I assume the park has gone through a lot of changes in the last 22 or 23 years.
(It was our 30th anniversary if I remember)