Larry
Forum Replies Created
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The combo number is the street address.
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As it goes in life so I was told: Sailboat, Powerboat, Motorhome, Casket!
Seems to be pretty accurate for me! 🙂
In the RV phase, I started out with a LTD class-A in 1974 and worked my way up, down, and back up to a Prevost. Some photos of the lot: http://bottieri.com/remote/Bottieri/Vehicles/Pages/My_RV_history.html
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This is just something I have done over the years………If the site is reasonably level I usually lower the bus all the way down. It makes the first step up into the coach user friendly and the coach isn’t going rock in high winds and it is the laziest way I can think of for leveling the coach.
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Yes, in my case, it can always get worse. I remember being in Las Vegas, and not having what you would call a spectacular run of good luck, so I shrugged my shoulders, and out loud, to no one in particular, I said, “It cannot get any worse.”
Wrong.
Worse will follow you across the street.
BCO
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Any large motorhome is complex with many mechanical, hydraulic, peneumatic, electrical, electronic, etc. systems. It is unrealistic, regardless of manufacturer to think that a motorhome will not require frequent attention. Even Prevost conversions will visit repair facilities regularly. A Prevost factory service facility can address the “chassis” portion of the conversion but the converter, or someone like Jeff can address the converter portions.
Every bus will require periodic attention. Don’t be fooled and think that I’ll buy a multi-million dollar RV and not have to worry about every having to spend time with maintenance, repairs, and upgrades. It just does not happen. Since you said you are not particularly mechanically inclined, it will be even tougher for you.
Buying a used Prevost really does not change anything. A new Prevost is expensive to buy and expensive to maintain. Due to depreciation, a gently used Prevost is less expensive to buy but STILL expensive to maintain. These big beast are not for wimps.
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Truk,
I have the system on 2 vehicles and both have been flawless so far. About 8,000 towed miles on the jeep and 2,000 miles on the truck. -
That is a very nice offer Dick to go look at it for somebody!!!!!
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Sorry for the bad news C & G, I don’t even pay any attention to it now, don’t really see it unless Iooking for it. I’m very gentle with the doors, don’t let them slam shut like I see some do and then just put my shoulder into the corners to make sure they latch good. Diane can tell us what happens if one comes I latched.
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Every now and then I will write something and post it, and then afterwords get to thinking about it, mulling it around in my mind and pull it. In this case, I thought it was caustic in nature, too negative, so I yanked it. There are times when I will make a call such as this, usually I am right on the money.
I can email you a copy Al, just get in touch with me and I will zip it up to you in KC.
Don Smith
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Thanks, Tom, Bill and Jon.
i had no luck last night on the Norgren site. Will check these part numbers out.
I have practically no luck using the Prevost parts catalog either, even after a personal tutorial from Robert Hitt in Branson. most confusing database I’ve ever seen or worked with. I always call to confirm the part numbers. And got the story to buy the entire manifold.
I have been able to cross over the 3 port and 5 port Norgren valves to their standard catalog numbers at a fair savings. It took reading a number of cut sheets but I have changed mine.
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I check my level cold at about midway on the sight glass. Seems to be fine.
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I would check your atf level anyhow. The fluid expands significantly when warm and, on the 5-speed, I had this exact problem when cold with a marginal oil level. After the coach would sit and idle for a time, all was normal.
I always use the pad to check the oil level electronically on the 6-speed. You bring everything to normal operating temp, stop coach, leave engine idling, apply park brake, shift to N, push upshift and downshift arrows simultaneously and wait. The display takes a few, then will read “ol ok” (normal), ol -1 ( down 1 quart) or ol+2 (if 2 qts overfilled); you get the picture.
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My experieces precisely! I have had a 4 year old tag blow and a sidewall separation occur on the inside of a 5 year old tag. Both had been rotated from the front (which I no longer do) but my theory is the twisting action on the tag tires (like trailer tires, which tend to fail often) is the culprit.
I would recommend thorough visual inspections of tag tires regularly.
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Just got off the phone with Courtney at Bella Terra. She was a pleasure and we’re signed up for April. Can’t wait to see some familiar friends and make some new ones.
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A quick note to say thanks for all your help. After removing the solenoid and opening it up, I found a broken lead wire inside. Fortunately, it was broken (fatique) right at the connector. A quick splice, redirection of the wire, and we were back in business. A new solenoid will be installed when I get back to Tulsa. I must say that by the way the wiring is designed, I’m suprised more of them have not failed.
In the mean time, it’s COLD in Eastern Colorado… Currently -4 at 2:00 in the afternoon. Makes me glad the Webasto works.
Later,
Jackson & Jessica