Jerry
Forum Replies Created
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I definitely am not looking for a leak free system. That is like finding a leprechan riding a unicorn.
I have fixed a few leaks that slowed it down (driver’s seat). I will start the process on the above mentioned components. I am fairly certain the valve on the tank is one of my culprits.
Thanks for the help.
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Better be careful, gonna rub the shine off that puppy!
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Thanks Dick…they don’t insure Can…that border complicates things alot.
Grant Olson.
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The coach is now completely painted and has been moved into production.
We made the final interior selections today and reconfirming our choices from May when we were at the factory.
In about eight or nine more weeks we will be seeing a beautiful completed Liberty coach.
Can’t wait!
MM.
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Tully I don’t thinks so.
If you have one battery bad you can take that one out the bank and work with a bank with one less battery. When you do buy, buy all at once as you were told. If I were you I would contact Truk4u and get AMG’s and upgrade to a Inverter/charger. What part of the country are you in? Maybe some on this Forum is close by to help you. The best option is to take you coach to someone like Jeff and have the battery/inverter/charging system upgraded.
I just reread you original post and you have a Freedom 2500 inverter it should have charging capablity. If you put your meter on the inverter leads on the batteries what does the inverter output read?
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I’ve weighed all three of my coaches and always drive on forward. Even with 2 45s and a 40 I was always able to get each axle on a different scale section. I could always see from my mirrors so I never needed anyone to help.
If your drive axle is in the 20 to 22,000 range your tire pressures are going to be close to 85 or 90.
If you do have moisture in the tires the Equal has clumped up and needs to be replaced with dry Equal and then fill with air that is moisture free such as the coach will provide. My aux system with the engine running gives me ample pressure to top off a tire.
As to filling a hot tire if you have to do that, it is best to anticipate the need, get your hot pressures on tires that have been driven hard for each position and use them as the pressures to use when hot. The problem is how hot is hot because as is noted ambient temperatures play a role in tire temperature and tire temperature affects the hot pressure. The 156 degrees on a 110 ambient day is not surprising in view of me seeing 135 on a 85 degree day, with higher or lower temps based on ambient.
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I want to know if he really has a 4 slide Winnebago in his bus barn ???
Come-on Al… out with it ??
Cheers, Diane
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Diane, was it one of these Fussy Ass Guys on here??
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How about a set of nice s/s west coast mirrors like we use on our trucks? They even come w/ heat and motors to adjust them. Some even have lights- LEDS too. Then add a couple of 8″ heated convex ones for extra perspective. Then we could add dual CB antennas that light up when we key the mic. Just kidding. Probably not very aerodynamic either.
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Tom
Do you never move your mirrors when parking etc. I move mine often
Bill
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Ronald pretty much covered the easiest and quickest way to do this.
You can create the map in Google Maps and allow users to add POI’s with links to the threads in the forums. Or the admin can manage that and only make the map vieweable to users.
The Fuel Discount Program uses pretty much exactly this to show where we can get $0.10 or $05 off fuel using our cards. They manage the map’s POI’s ad details for each one.
Letting the community add to the map means there is the possibility for incorrect data (links, etc..) to be added to the maps, however, it allows for greater information sharing. Making it so only the Admin can add to the map means more effort to manage the map by a single person (or small group).
No reason to re-invent the wheel for something like this and the cost shouldnt be that much from your web guy (really just adding a page with an embedded google map is all that is needed on your side, let Google manage the rest).
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John,
A lot of your questions are beyond my pay grade, but I do know some things from experience.
There was a vintage of transmission around the model year of yours that had an issue with the wear of the clutches. That clutch wear affected shift quality. Whether that is contributing to your problem might be revealed when an Allison dealer does the test. The will hook you up to a computer and your transmission will be analyzed down to how much clutch wear you have. Some clutches had such wear the material that wore off contaminated the transmission because it was so much.
You should always check your transmission fluid level on the key pad. hit the up-down arrows simultaneously and after a countdown the key pad display will tell you if it is OK, or low or overfilled. The tranny has to be at operating temperature. I believe the codes for the display can be found at the Allison web site. They might also reveal if the transmission had any codes while acting up
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got it across the freeway to a TA safe site, changed filters even added oil , got the guy to check codes with his tester and have no code after he cleared .
Still won’t run
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Love to hear it and can’t wait to get to Yellowstone someday.
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I too had one of those pesky little o-rings start leaking. It takes a really skinny and “flexible” tech to get to the dang thing from above. I don’t know if it is any easier from the bottom and am not interested in finding out. I will say I am carrying a spare o-ring in case it leaks again. Of course I am neither skinny nor, it seems, very flexible anymore. Guess that leaves me searcing for someone that fits the description to do the replacement!
BTW, carrying a spare o-ring will not result in any axle weight limit being exceeded ;<)