[Jeff]

Since our tires start out from 17 to 19/32 tread depth and have 12 to 14/32 useable tread depth approximately I would guess a wear of 1/32 per 10,000 miles would be expected based on my tire wear from past experience. I know I had about 60,000 miles on the set i replaced in 2017 and the tread depth was nowhere near where the minimum, but I also did not measure them.

Can we get some other owners to post tread depth figures along with miles on the tires? I think it would be interesting to see if there is a “normal” value for tire wear.

I doubt if rolling straight down the interstates wears the tires a lot, but doing a lot of driving on curvy roads seems like it would wear heavily. I have no idea how or if speed affects wear.

[Jeff]

I have a Howard reservoir with a cracked sight glass. I think the bladder inside is good.

I will check and let you know.

[Jeff]

Becky and Joe…….here is my opinion which doesn’t amount to much.

Assuming the systems and interior are everything you really want the decision is simple. Make sure the price is low enough for you to redo the exterior appearance to whatever you would like it to be.

I saw an entertainer conversion that looked like that at one of our advertisers and let’s just say the appearance is not one that I would choose.

[Jeff]

My son is flying up to Indianapolis on Saturday and will be driving a bus for one of the bands over the next month. Expect another caravan to be seen from Indiana, to Tennessee, to Florida to Montreal. Great stuff!

[Jeff]

Almost all early model coaches had 100% 12 volt house systems, but later models used 24 volt house systems, but needed the availability of 12 volt for certain devices that could only handle 12 volts. A lot of the unseen devices such as the alarms, clocks, radios, etc. are only available in 12 volt so the converter used parallel and series cable patterns on the batteries to get 12 and 24 volts and is using the equalizer(s) to keep things properly charged.

If batteries are correctly maintained 5 years should be easily attained so I would not automatically think they are in need of replacement. But with loose connections it is a strong possibility they never got a full and correct charge so apart from separating them and giving each battery a test you may want to just replace them all and enjoy the benefits of fresh batteries.

Bulging on a battery is not a good sign so you can expect issues.

[Jeff]

Worked today.

I probably was not holding my mouth right yesterday…

Thanks!

[Jeff]

Thanks, make sense to me. I will string the bus or set up my lasers to check the alignment. The bus drives straight when I’m not fighting a cross-wind so I’m thinking the alignment is good. I just replaced all the tires ($ ouch $) and I don’t want to scrub a tires if the alignment is off.

I’ll take the pressure tank apart to check for numbers. It isn’t like I’m going to break it, right?? If all fails I’ll put the OE steering stabilizer back on.

Thanks again for the insight.

Jeff

[Jeff]

Colt … great to see you posting. Hope all is well.

Jeff: You mention fatigue on long runs. We just completed a 78 day, 7700 trip from Wisconsin to Vonore to Everglades City to Daytona to NOLA to Galveston to Corpus Christi to Austin to Tucson to Phoenix to Malibu and Pismo Beaches to Las Vegas to Salt Lake City to Cheyene WY and back to Wisconsin.

We had quite a windy conditions in Texas, NM, Utah, Wyoming (warnings of 45mph winds, then 65+ mph winds), and Nebraska. I was surprised at how well the coach handled the windy conditions. I did have to hold a little crab in (pilots term) often to keep going straight, but I wasn’t fighting the wheel as I think out might be experiencing from what you said.

But our coach didn’t handle like that from the beginning. We bought it in May of 2014, picked it up from ETLC and drove back to Wisconsin. Made a couple of trips with it, and was constantly fighting the steering wheel as it wandered from centerline to shoulder and back again. Wife was constantly telling me I was on the shoulder as I was turning the wheel to get back where I wanted to be (that was really annoying).

Using some information I gleaned I think from a truck conversion forum I thought the problem was the steering box in that the gears had worn in the box and the adjustment screw needed to be tightened. But I was WRONG.

In December of 2014 we stopped at Vonore to have Jeff look the coach over again and take care of a leaking drive axle hub that had cropped up shortly after we got back to Wisconsin. The late Peter Campbell was at ETLC while we were there and after I realized he had 100’s of thousands of miles in Prevosts over the decades I mentioned the problem to him and my proposed solution. He said, “Nope, not the problem.” Told me to leave the steering box along, that is rarely if ever the problem. Told me the axles are probably out of alignment and I needed a three axle alignment at Prevost. We were going to Florida so I made an appointment at Prevost Jacksonville.

First thing the tech did was check the tie rods (after the infloor lift had lifted the coach by the frame). They were loose, so he replaced those. Then he hooked up the laser system and showed me how the drive axle was well out of proper alignment (curb side much further forward then the driver side). He said there were a large number of shims in for adjustment which probably wasn’t done at the factory. First he brought the drive axle to within acceptable factory specs, then one or two adjustments further it was dead on. I can’t rmember if he changed the tag. He made slight adjustments on the front. We also put Koni shocks on the front and new OEMs in the back.

The first five miles on the Interstate I could NOT believe how much different is was to drive the coach. It did NOT wander anymore. It was much, much easier to drive. Well worth the investment. I think flat rate on a three axles alignment back then was $650 plus parts and labor for whatever else they did.

You might want to consider a three axles alignment at Prevost. Both Peter and the Prevost tech told me not to take the coach to a truck alignment shop. Tech thought that is where the stack of shims were put in putting it way out of alignment. You might have the same problem I did. If you race, or know guys that do, you could try “stringing the coach” to see if you can detect if its out of alignment. Given the length of wheelbase and size of the tires it should be easy to do.

[Jeff]

My 2000 Marathon H3 had it installed. There was fluid from leaks everywhere.

Company out of business years ago. We were unable to find what we needed or any one who might have some idea where to look.

Howard system was removed from bus.

The Howard steering idea was to firm up the steering turning a dial. Windy driving was to ease the driver from continuous steering wheel adjusting. Gauge / dial was installed around Allison trans selection pad.

I understand it did work…but ..some liked it…some didn’t.

AL

[Jeff]

Fred,

Haven’t you heard, Tom already put in his Marathon application to replace Leon upon his retirement.

[Jeff]

Mike and Karen,

We’ll stop down. I think we met at last years Oysterfest.

Chris & Sheila

[Jeff]

Joel,

If your front is going down my guess is it is associated with the air bags, a fitting, an air line or the valves associated with the front. I think yours allows air to escape the 3 port valve on the steer compartment bulkhead when lowering the front. If the leak is internal to the valves plug where the air escapes after you have confirmed which port it is. If the front stays up the leak is associated with air leaking internally through the Norgrens that are to lock air in.. But the Norgrens can also leak to atmosphere past the end O rings and escape out either end of the valve. That usually shows up with soapy water on the valve.

I don’t believe any air loss in the rear of the bus will be associated with the front settling down.

I think with your IFS you might have the two three port Norgrens over the front axle so it could be those valves also but they don’t exhaust front air bag air. They just direct the flow of air.

[Jeff]

Brian, Just curious what would your estimate be to R&R the engine. and also to run the top end…2 seperate estimates please.

[Jeff]

Chip,

Sorry I wasn’t more clear. My coach has drivers side private toilet next to a closet which has hanging space in the top half and drawers below, next to that closet what I called the wardrobe ( hanging closet?) all in the bath area, then you enter the bedroom. The floor of that closet ( hanging closet) has to be removed to reveal the relays.

I agree it sounds like a fuse or ground. My schematic also shows a fuse in the fan unit itself. It may be too much trouble but have you considered reconnecting the old fan to see if all the functions returned? Good luck.

[Jeff]

The lap belts are a pain in the ass , they tighten up every time you move , I replaced mine with one that moves until you need it , then the belt brake applies and it works great!!!! Have never being pulled over for seat belt !!! Or pulled over for anything in 30 years of driving a bus !!!!! One speeding ticket in my pickup 15 miles from home go figure!!!