Harry
Forum Replies Created
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Andre
look into the Pilot card, I think its 8cents off for diesel. Haven’t run into any place that didn’t have the discount, I think it is company policy., Apply on line, once approved you get access code, pay at the pump, directly debited from your account once month. Accurate records, works like a charm.
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So how about warranty ? One of the used, I’am using the word “used” brass fittings I found in his coffee can began leaking. That whole assembly removed and rebuilt again now back in KC.
I wonder where he keeps the good stuff ?
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Harry,
Glad to hear you got it started.
If i was you, I would take my road test straight to Jeff at ETLC.
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That’s where we part company Brett. I ask for photos or copy of important documents. I don’t want conversation because we both know any conversation is intended to convince me to buy a coach.
From the photos I get a general idea, but those that have shopped know photos are only going to reveal big stuff like the floor plan or features like a 60 inch TV. They won’t show the crack in the counter top or floor tile. They won’t show where the dog scratched the wood trim and photos certainly will not show the stench from a smoker.
But the photos do give a great sense of the overall coach. If the seller has not even taken the trouble to pick up the underwear which shows in the photos or empty his personal crap out of the bay it sends a clear message about how well the coach is maintained.
I looked at a coach for a PC member and one of the things that was repeated by both the seller and the buyer is the tires were new. The tires had so much tire dressing it was filling the cracks on the 10 year old tires and the tires had to be scraped to even see the date code the dressing was so thick. So another example of the lies that make me want to not have any conversation.
If you are true to yourself, you have to recognize nobody wants a conventional RV if they are selling a Prevost. Owners don’t want one, and if a dealer is forced to take one in trade you are going to end up with wholesale at best, usually lower. So you as a buyer should start by understanding you are either going to be a two coach owner until you sell your present coach, or you accept the fact you are going to get a serious hit on value if you want the deal to involve a trade. That is the start. Step two is when you talk to sellers don’t give them the opportunity to make fools of themselves by lying to you. You have the burden to check out the coach and anything the buyers say is nothing more than background noise unless they say and then prove they have records and books from day one.
If you don’t want to run all over the country chasing leads try to find fellow PC members who live near the coach and who can do a preliminary check. The responsibility of making sure the coach they examine is viewed as though you were viewing it is yours. Remember however that not everyone has the same standards so when somone is willing to help they need to understand the smell of cat urine is a deal breaker, but dog hair is not. It is amazing how fast stuff is noticed. Dents, paint chips, fogged glass, scratches in the counter top, and noisy A/C units are going to be noticed within seconds and a person helping you can do the walk around while you are on the phone talking to them as they do that.
It also will not hurt you to understand if the coaches you are looking at are all aproximately XX years old, then there is going to be some seriously lousy coaches, some really nice coaches and then the vst number in the middle that are not abused, but also are not pristine. You have to adjust your expectations enough so you are willing to accept what is typical in the market, and then adjust your wallet size by getting the coach to meet your standards.
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Just for the record Brett, your comment about most of us jet setting across the country to look at buses couldn’t be further from the truth.
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John, adopt my philosophy and you don’t even have to worry about it. Obviously lifting the tag axle caused the problem and when you thought the tag was being lifted it was not. To all the “lifters”, John has just show it probably makes no difference.
All kidding aside if you do not attempt to lift the axle the coach is safe to drive but just make sure nothing can come loose and drop onto the tag axle tire. If there is a concern use heavy wire or nylon wire ties to secure the parts. Clevis pins are readily available at places like Tractor Supply or from WW Grainer, McMaster Carr, or on line.
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Order from ;
Valve Check Inc. Maplewood MN. 651-330-3437
Part # 6203-2-1MM-1# 6200 series, 1/8 Male NPT x 1/8″ Male
NPT check, brass., Viton seal, 1psi cracking
$130 plus shipping
AL
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If that so called mechanic actually claimed the starter caused the solenoid in the box to burn up he is full of it.
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Our Kariba works just like Gone’s, and I have all the same questions he does.
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I always keep mine aired up. Only release the pressure to check function or change belts, or do other maintenance. As part of my walk around before departure, with the engine running, I always open the right rear engine bay and visually confirm that the belts are tight and operational. Maybe not full proof but has worked so far.
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HJ, like others I’m astonished that a mechanic would rebuild the starter without first ruling out battery problems, but I assume you will eventually sort out the problem and get back on the road. However, this is not likely to be the last mechanical problem you will experience. I can’t help but note that all of your posts over the past few months indicate that you ran out and bought a very complicated and expensive 25+ year old machine with very little knowledge of what makes it go. You really need to educate yourself. I’m not saying you need to become a diesel mechanic, but you (and every other Rv’er for that matter) need to at least know the basics of the coach’s electrical (house and chassis), fuel, suspension, brake and drive systems. Without some basic knowledge, you won’t know when a mechanic from an unknown shop is telling something sensible or totally wacky.
Believe me, I’m no mechanic. I take my bus to the shop for repairs that many on this board would do in their own garage and finish before lunch. But at least I have a good idea of what each component does and how it is supposed to work. That way, I can at least diagnose what part of the bus is the problem so I can point the tech in the right direction. And I know when I’m told something that sounds crazy.
There is a ton of information available in the articles section of this site. Youtube and elsewhere on the web are fully of good information. Take advantage of these sources and get well informed. Otherwise, I’m afraid you are destined to become a former Rv’er because your experience will never be what you hoped it would be.
Sincerely wishing you good luck with your bus.
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Harry, if the mechanic said the equalizers may have caused the problem don’t ever let him near the bus. He is full of shit and is taking you on Mr. Toad’s wild ride.
The equalizer as said before maintains the correct relationship between the 24 and 12 volt legs of the battery bank. It does not make electricity but uses the 24 volt input to keep the 12 volt legs properly charged.
You need to take a breath, step back and figure how to get someone that actually has a clue to your coach with some testers and tools and get you going. Keep your Good Sam’s guy away, keep the starter guy away, and have the expert methodically analyze your problem(s), correct them and get you back on the road.
It is vital that someone start from the beginning because at this point you do not know if your coach would not start because the batteries were bad, or if the reason the solenoid burned up is the problem or if the problem was just a bad solenoid that burned up. If your original chassis batteries are or were good something discharged them and that needs to be identified. If they were bad in the first place then the starter was probably good. There are far too many things that need to be checked and checking does not mean a test light comes on.
In case I was not making myself clear, fire the mechanic, or at the very least, just to minimize damage to your coach, just give him your wallet and its contents and keep him away from the coach.
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To clarify, I did not intend to imply that Josh or any other of Jeffs people could not trouble shoot these issues on their own. My point was that whomever came would have the best in the business a ph call away if needed.
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Harry,
We tow 4 down with a 2003 Dodge 2500 4×4. Yes it has a Hemi. One diesel in the family is enough! We have towed to San Diego – Portland – back to NC; to Seattle – many vacation stops and back to NC. On one trip we really needed the toad. Left Southern Pines heading to San Francisco in 2012. Just had an in chassis engine rebuild. Logged a grand total of 245 miles when the engine blew on the west side of Black Mountain. Grandson was with us and when I opened the side engine access door there was a gaping hole in the side of the block. A rod or probably two since one journal was completely devoid of any connecting rod or parts thereof, had made their exit and left the hole. The grandson, age 12, turns to me and says, “Papa, how we going to fix that? Ah the enthusiasm of youth. Sat on the side of I-40 from 1:00 PM until 9:00 PM. No body so much as slowed down, law enforcement included. Had a deadline to be in San Francisco and was ready to roll with the toad. Carole and the grandson said no way, we are going to get a room and sleep until the sun comes up. So the next day we drove 750 miles to the western edge of Arkansas, the second day we logged another 850 miles to Gallup New Mexico, and on the third day we logged another 1,000 miles to the downtown Marriott Hotel. Now I just wonder what the Uber fare would have been for the ride?
So yes, when the coach rolls, the toad rolls with it. Blue Ox with Air Force One supplemental braking system since spring 2007.