Harry
Forum Replies Created
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I would not be worthy to park at Truk’s place pretty sure it is for Marathon coaches only.
Craig
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The coolant used can be any brand that meets the specification for the engine. It can be the conventional coolant that is replaced every two years and must be maintained with supplemental coolant additives by means of a spin on cartridge, or it can be an extended life OAT (organic acid technology) coolant that is typically a 5 or 6 year replacement. It must meet specification EC-1 or the specification for the engine coolant.
If I am not mistaken Detroit now offers and extended life coolant as well as the traditional Power Cool. My preference is Detroit branded coolant but there are many others that are acceptable.
Coolant is not given the respect it needs. With sleeved engines coolant chemistry is critical to protect the life of the cylinder liners.
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I’m going to take a wild guess that Progressive’s lifetime warranty is for the original owner and the proof of purchase is to document it was purchased from an authorized dealer/re-seller and not from a third party.
My bus’s power cord experienced a scorching issue while plugged into a pole at Marathon and the Progressive surge protector did its job. I sent it back to Progressive along with the Amazon receipt and received a replacement within a week. The replacement was refurbished, but packaged like new.
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Sounds like the motor Pat, they are a PIA, my 01 Liberty was the same.
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When we bought our coach, it spent two weeks at Prevost Fort Worth and then several weeks at Marathon Grand Prairie. On one of the trips to Marathon GP while in service, I had an electrical issue after everyone had gone home. I called the Marathon help line, and got Leon on the line. He talked me through the coach reset, and stayed on the line very patiently while I walked around the coach going through the reset procedure. We always got the same service from Leon as if we had bought a brand new Marathon, and we didn’t even buy the coach from Marathon. Our check will go out today.
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Donald and June….Great video….beautiful place….great company! Can’t get any better!!! I’m ready to do it again…..when is the next eclipse, anyway?
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With what you describe you have a tremendous load put on the electrical system when you turn on the a/c or the heat side. When you hit the a/c side you turn on both of the large motors that draw about 60 amps. each. With the heat you have only the one motor for heat air flow. Check the generator output when you put the switch on. The generator may not be aboe to keep up with hte load and the system voltage drops enough that you get the alarms and the variuos systems dipping. It appears that the problem goes away after this initial event. Correct?
Check the cable connections on the generator and on the batteries especially the gound cable. You could have a lot of corrosion and it could cause this poor current flow under load. Check the connections on the voltage regulator for the generator as it is external. It may not be able to respond to the load requirements.
If you have an clip-on ammeter, check the draws on the two large motors. Some where we have device not able to keep up or bad connections on the heavy load items.
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Hey come on Tom, 5.99 for an ebook and $7.99 for paperback is a deal. Add to that my signature and who knows what it could be worth? Hey you could put out your slides, put your feet up and enjoy. Oh, you don’t have slides!
But you can still enjoy! Harry
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5.99 for Kindle. I’m waiting on my autographed book copy to come by mail, did you get yours yet Jon?
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Will it come with your signature? And no, you cannot use a quickie on my Kindle.
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Hey Andy,
Some could say writing a forward with the Guru could be going backward with the Hulu!
As for motorhome ownership, that book could only be named “The Good, The Bad & The Ugly”! Hi Jon,
If you go back to my first post you’ll see a “Click Here”. But to save time you can just CLICK HERE and it will take you right the the place to buy the book.
Thanks guys,
Harry
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When National dropped my coverage through Explorer RV, they suggested Safeco, and I went with them because of agreed value, and OK with a Montana LLC.
Very easy transition.
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Craig
did you get your new headlights from “Extralite.”
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Tom,
I’ve thought about cracking the other side for venting, but isn’t there a risk of overflow on that side? I always lean the bus to get more fuel in as well.
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In doing some research I found that after VIN 1-7605 (our VIN is before that) Prevost started installing a “floating ball type check valve assembly” as standard equipment on both sides of the 208 gallon fuel tanks.
In the parts manual there is a note that reads:
“For Product Improvement Of Spillway, Use Kit # 032413 for VIN Y-7046 to 1-7605”.
It looks like a retrofit kit of the floating ball type check valve assembly at the entrance to the fuel tank on both sides.
Is this worth considering, or am I just a whining newbie?
I wonder if temporarily increasing the drop angle from the filler neck to the tank, using the level low to tilt the coach, as suggested, would help?
Thanks