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Forum Replies Created
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Well. I’m one of Tom’s campground goat people neighbors. We both jumped ship at the same time for the same reasons for Renegade Verona LE’s. Ditto Tom’s comments. It’s not a Prevost but ride and handling are superb. Factory support is superb. We used to own a Dynamax and Renegade is far superior. Much better quality and support.
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Bill, if your toilet drain pipe passes from the toilet through an uninsulated area of the coach before it reaches the heated holding tank bay you may have to add a heat tape to the pipe.
It must be very cold where you are.
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In mine where the step up in rear is that’s where the access panel, mine is a 40 so it’s down on far side of bed. I had valves adjusted when I first bought it. I had to cut carpet to access bolts and where it comes out, It took me about an hour to remove cover, now I could remove it in a few minutes. Once cover is removed it’s easy access to engine.
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Corey – RVAC circuit boards have been reverse engineered and NEW CIRCUIT boards are available from Featherlite for their HVAC basement units.
Triple Fox – You noted Tradewinds installed a Coleman unit in your coach for around $4K. Was that a basement unit?
Chuck
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Ed,
I am trying to remember the details of my 87 coach with respect to brake chambers so take the sizes and comments with a grain of salt.
Availability of brake chambers on that coach was excellent. I know for sure the steers were type 30, the drives were 30/36, and the tag was a 24 or 27, not a combo.
You can easily determine if the tags are spring or just a single service brake by laying on the ground and looking across at the tag chamber on the other side.
As I recall a parts store either had all the chambers in stock or had them overnight.
If I were to have a shop do the brake chamber replacement it is a one day job. On a coach your age they are or should look at hoses and maybe consider replacing any showing their age. If you have all drum as I suspect they should inspect the shoes and linings and drums for thickness and evidence of cracking of drums or friction material. Their final task is going to be adjusting the slack adjusters which is a minute per wheel. I would not anticipate problems with S cam bushings, but would make sure the brakes have not been compromised with leaky hub seals or broken return springs.
If you bring your coach to the shop doing the repairs and ask them to figure out what parts they need along with other work they determine needs done as a result of the inspection the work you require should be a one day job or maybe a second if they find upon inspection some other needed work.
Most shops have a policy about not using customer supplied parts, not because they want to cheat you, but because they want to be sure the parts are correct. They don’t want to tie up their shop or lift waiting to get the right parts.
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There are a lot of reasons why the filter might be a good idea. Some water traps suck. They are either unreliable or they just do not trap all moisture, so in that respect adding the filter is certainly justified.
I agree it is adding complexity and a good trap, combined with sufficient air hose length prior to the trap to assure water vapor will condense will likely eliminate the need for secondary moisture retention.
On all my Liberty coaches the aux compressor fed air to the Prevost accessory tank so if I ever had any concerns they were quickly answered by my routine tank draining. Since I never have gotten a drop of moisture from my accessory tank my modified aux compressor moisture trap system is all I need.
In anticipation of the question, I removed the “spitter” installed by Liberty, and instead routed aux compressor air through a Norgren water trap that is likely to only receive condensate and not vapor because it goes through a copper coil of tube, followed by 15 or 20 feet of plastic air line prior to the trap. The key is making sure the compressed air has cooled.
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I did mine last year 97 XL Steer replaced Diaphragms Type #30, Drives replaced the piggybacks and service Diaphragms GP3036 and a DP type #30 Diaphragms,Tags also replaced Piggybacks GP1624 and a DP16 Type #16 Diaphragms also a Type # 36 for lifting the tags. Also Check all rubber brake hoses I had a bubble in 1 of mine so I replaced all 8 of them. from Prevost https://www.finditparts.com/ https://www.finditparts.com/products/367963/haldex-gp3036
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Until I started using Swagelok I would have said much the same thing Bob said. But Swagelok has a unique ferrule design and I cannot say it is interchangeable with other brand compression fittings or ferrules. I think it is a 2 piece ferrule.
But as replacement fittings for push in you likely need the whole fitting, including ferrule, and I don’t think I got a price break for my purchase. I don’t remember how many I bought, but the last project was to replace all Norgrens and when I did that I also replaced every fitting so there were a lot of fittings involved.
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It’s just a quick safety inspection. It costs $7 and they just check that the lights all work and do a brake check by setting the parking brake and putting the coach in drive. If it doesn’t move it passes.
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The Nighthawk looks good and adequate.
We started 4 down towing our 4500 lb FJ Cruiser with an adequate 6k# Roadmaster Falcon 2. We still have it. We occasionally lend it to a neighbor who destroyed his towbar.
Eventually we upgraded to the Roadmaster 10k# All Terrain Blackhawk 2.
No issues with either.
If we ever start towing our Yukon 4 down, we’ll utilize the Blackhawk.
These days, when the FJ goes with us, it’s usually in our enclosed trailer. -
I’m not so sure that SMX is unique to a Marathon. I have them in my Liberty and I know coach conversions with roof airs have had some SMX controls or at least controls called SMX.
SMX was a Cruiseair control that I think was introduced in the early 90’s.