DON
Forum Replies Created
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Welcome to the asylum.
I’m sure by now you realize we all will answer every question you have. Occasionally you may actually get a correct answer.
A lot of collector cars are owned by our members.
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Wilbur, If a generator is run lightly loaded for a long period it can develop issues but I don’t think typical loads are small enough to create such problems. In the summer with A/Cs running plus other normal stuff from refrigerator to water pump to lights, etc. I think that is enough of a load. At night if the outside temps drop into the comfortable range it is not seeing those loads, but as soon as you are up and around the usage of power kicks back up.
If it were idling with no load at all for most of the day then I would be concerned.
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The Liberty guys would eat their young.
No mercy.
Later
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This is just personal experience based on seat of the pants measuring.
The S-60 does real well at higher elevations because the turbo spins up and builds boost pressure quite well. Combine that with good gearing to get the coach to step away from a traffic light pretty briskly with a rapid RPM build up and in my opinion altitude has minimal impact. Because of turbo boost the engine does not act like it is at altitude.
The 8V92 owners and previous owners on here will tell a different story about their coaches with that engine. My 8V92 did well, but only on sea level highways. As altitude increase it got more and more sluggish. The problem with the 8V92 was the turbo and blower weren’t really effective much below 1500 RPM (which is often a Series 60 shift point) Until the RPM came up an 8V92 was pretty slow, but once it got 1500 and above it did real well. The key is the turbo. As long as the boost is up the engines act like they are at sea level, but until boost builds all engines suffer a performance loss due to elevation.
If you want to see a Prevost owner in pain, watch an 8V92 driver at altitude, like Colorado Springs, trying to start up a grade from a complete stop. He will step on the pedal, and when nothing happens the look he gets will be like you would get if your couldn’t get your engine above idle. Given enought time and black smoke that 8v92 will eventually get rolling, but until it does the driver is left wondering if he should get out and push.
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I did the oem shocks on my XLII and thought they were fine. I just had my H3 done at Jeff’s and this time I did Koni on the steer axle, on oem on the rest.
I feel that the Koni does help on some of the sharper bumps. They also seem to stop rebounds slightly better.
Bottom line, use whatever suits you.
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Whatever Prevost supplies as OEM is adequate. The Koni owners with vastly more sensitive seat of the pants feelings will disagree.
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“If I had been alone I don’t know what I would have done because the tow bar arm latch pin had failed.”
I am sure that Jon “MacGyver” Wehrenberg would have fixed it in less than 5 minutes with a pair of bread ties and the internals of an extra relay to the radiator fan that just happened to appear on the side of the road where he pulled over! 😉
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We are not trying to be negative, but are attempting to make you understand all of what you are thinking about is possible, but with risks.
Whether the risks are associated with the electrical question or winterization the consequences have the potential to have substantial costs. Tom correctly points out the deep discharge of batteries and then recharging is going to accelerate your need for batteries. Keeping batteries charged and limiting battery depth of discharge greatly extends battery life so you save a lot of money. Being powered on reliable shore power saves fuel, batteries and you have far less risk of failure.
When you add sub freezing temperatures to the equation and the need to protect the coach systems from freezing your risks ramp up. A coach can be winterized. Several PC members do that. But as our coaches got more and more well equipped the complexity of winterization has increased. We have water lines we often don’t consider, we have appliance components that hold water and that water has to be purged or replaced with anti-freeze. We have traps in drains we cannot get at. They need to be filled with anti-freeze. When I look at my plumbing and its multiple systems just the thought of winterization scares me. How do I protect the RO water system and all the devices it is connected to? How do I know I have anti-freeze in the low spots of the hot and cold water lines as they snake through the bays and plumbing chases?
And even if I actually succeeded in getting every single water line and drain empty of water and replaced with anti-freeze what do I have to go through when I want to use the coach? I cannot imagine how much flushing of the systems I would have to do to get the anti-freeze from the washer, refrigerator ice maker lines, the RO cartridges, the coffee maker, plus all the water lines, the pump, the HW heaters, etc.
You get the picture when you start examining your coach.
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Thanks Jon, schedule is to take the coach down to NAples, Thankgiving, one week prior …
per your note I should take it down earlier to avoid issues? Say end of OCtober? -
On XLII coaches there is a door that opens and it provides access to the front electrical compartment and the lower steer compartment. But it also includes the toll window, so when the door is open there is the possibility a skinny person can wiggle through the opening to get inside the coach. Once inside the entry door can be opened.
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Bob,
Good afternoon, Im not sure why the link wont work, but I do know that if you copy and paste the web address I posted into a new search window, it will take you to the vehicle. There is also information on http://www.Carlisleauctions.com.
Please let me know if that helps!
Tim
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Thanks to all for your comments. I decided on the Air Force One.
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I just ordered one of these from Prevost this past week to fit on my 1990/1991 Country Coach. They had to get it out of Quebec as it was the only place they had inventory. Richard Moore, the salesman out of Prevost Nashville said that there were only 2 in stock in all of Prevost inventory. I bought 1. It cost $75.15 plus $5.26 shipping. He said they is no indication there plan to restock the item.
Other than Ebay, I am not sure where I will get one next time.
Here is the Information I recieved from Prevost. The prevost Part No is 610941
You should verify that this is the correct part for your application. Hope one is still available.
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Thanks, Jon. I did measure voltage on the two main battery lugs but I did not write that figure down. (I usually check those lugs first just to make sure my meeter is reading.) The 27.6 was on the “battery” screw on the voltage regulator. The 28.3 is on the alternator itself. I will turn the regulator down some more before I roll today and report back.
Davy
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It’s OK, Will wouldn’t know a crankshaft pulley from a light bulb and he can’t read the title.