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Crankshaft Pulley Seal Yanmar
2000 Marathon H, anyone know If the crank shaft pulley seal can be replaced by removing the pulley? It has a slight leak.
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12 Replies
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Tom,
In section 1.8.4 front crankshaft seal is addressed. It looks like it can be replaced with the correct puller/tools.
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Thanks Alvie, but this is a generator..
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My bad! I didn’t think the picture looked quite right:)
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Alvie,
Don’t feel bad, this one is on Tom. He has had so many coaches he sometimes forgets to be specific about what he posts. If he would use a photoshop program he could actually place an arrow pointing at the specific part he is asking for advice on. A text box could then be added at the tail of the arrow to describe in less than 25 words what the heck he is working on now. Kinda like the folks that don’t place a signature so we all know what year chasis/year converted/who was the converter – coach they have. Did I miss Tom posting who manufactured his generator? That would help get Tom the information he is seeking.
That’s my 2 cents …
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This is a tough group.
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It’s OK, Will wouldn’t know a crankshaft pulley from a light bulb and he can’t read the title.
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Will took a nap and when he woke up, not only had he discovered that he had misread the title, but he had also discovered that while he thought he had seen the pully in the lower right side of the photo it was actually in the upper left. Will, gotta quit taking those naps!
Tom, hope that helps.
3-F
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Tom/Foxtrot,
First, I’d have to ask just what a Yanmar is. I guess it must be some Chinese generator used in Marathon H’s from the responses. Second, I like Alvie go to the meet of a post asking for technical questions. Lastly, It would be nice to know who is asking for the advice, which would be found in the signature. “ADMIN” just is very nebulous. I knew Jon would not be asking such a question, Tom is another story.
I do know a thing or three about crankshaft seals, both front and rear seals, but not on a Yanmar diesel generator. I’ve built many automotive gasoline engines over the years, from huge old Hemi’s down to straight line six cylinders (both Chrysler and Chevy). I even had the experience of changing a rear seal on a 383 engine after Carole drove it to work throwing oil all over the engine compartment. Thought it was the rear seal based on the location the oil was coming out of the bellhousing. Turned out that over the years I had hammered the 383 so many times the camshaft had “walked” enough to break the seal between the block and the freeze plug behind the cam.
Foxtrot, points taken. I simply was taking up for Alvie and using Admins past admonitions to use signatures to help those of us who care to identify the PC Family member with a problem.
Hope all are enjoying the summer, heat and humidity, for soon we will be carping about the freezing temperatures.
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Yeah Will, just wanting to let you know that you weren’t the only one who saw that original post with the ambiguous title and previous flipped photo…While Tom has all the ADMIN control buttons to be sneeky and change things, some of us ‘old timers’ still have a good memory, right? I may be 71 years old, but I still have two things that work great. One is my memory and the other is..uh,..uh, well, I forget what the second is.
3-F
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Don’t pick on Tom. He is the guy that sets the rate for the dues. And besides, he can edit any post he wants, mine, yours or his.
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The seal should be changable from the front after the pully is removed. That is standard practice on most such applications.
After the pulley is removed do you have good access to the work area for careful work?
The important thing to remember is do not mar the shaft in the sealing area!
If you mar the shaft, you will not be able to make a seal, without further repair.
In any case that is the easiest way to proceed, if the attempt fails, then remove the cover.
JIM
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Thanks Jim, I’ll pass that info on.
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