DON
Forum Replies Created
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Harry, It may take a bit of time to work out the kinks and problems on your bus..I am sure once resolved you will be enjoying it with your wife and look back at this as a learning process….Wishing you the best
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Hoses okay. Thermostat I pulled right side up. Think my coach is haunted. Gonna flush first and then pull radiator next and replace. Also will put fans in front like auto/trucks have. I will get this if my health holds up but feeling mighty weak from the strain.
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I’m ready for the game!
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David, Here’s my understanding of how the blinds work(ON MY LIBERTY)
My front electric blinds operate via 110v and 12v. The 110v part is controlled by the switch in the main electrical cabinet labeled “fwd outlets” by way of inverter #2, it has to be on and working. This circuit feeds a 110v to 12v converter that is buried in the front overhead tv/video/etc cabinets. It sends 12v to the little 12v electic motors in the blinds.
On my bus to reset a GFCI it has to have 110v power to it or it won’t reset. My bus has 3 GFCIs: fwd, aft, & exterior. My fwd GFCI is in the kithen area. My aft is in the bathroom, and my exterior is on the roof of the #1 curbside bay.
When I bought my bus I also wanted schematics for Liberty’s part. Boy did Bill & Troy both laugh their ars off at me. Evidenty IT’S TOP SECRET! This is what keeps me and you and the rest of the converters from copying their electrical system. But, if you have a Liberty owners manual( cha ching$ right Rocky?) they have a lot of circuit info in the back of it. I looked twice n my owners manual and I couldn’t find anything about the front electric blinds? sorry
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Dick,
Ditto on what Joe said. I used the butt connectors when replacing the original lights with original replacement lights. LED light were not available back then. I did replace the old stiff well nuts/rivnuts to hold the new fixtures in place. I ordered the replacement nuts and lights from Prevost Parts to avoid the did not match up problem.
I’m told my side lights are 24 volt for which there are no LED’s available for direct replacement. My “Cruise On” light finally burned our six months ago. I wanted to change it to LED for life etension and heat reduction. All I could find were 12 volt LED’s. So I went looking for a converter to reduce input from 24 volt to 12 volt. Found one ordered it, installed it in a very tight space and then took a ride and it did not illuminate the GREEN 12 volt LED. Took the unit out and went to a friend who had an old IBM variable voltage unit and at 12 Volts the LED lite up brightly.with 24 volts in and 12 volts out. So for whatever reason it did not work in the bus. So next I searched for a source of an LED using a drop down resistor to allow 12 volt to LED. That did not work either. So for now I don’t have a “Cruise On” light. Still stumped but open to ideas.
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The bay (outside) outlets are on a separate circuit. I agree with the previous replies and the oultet is likely out of your line of sight under the microwave.
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Moved for Andre.
Start checking at the battery for battery voltage and tight cable connections. Follow the battery ground wire from the battery to where ever it goes and make sure it is a tight well grounded connection. Do the same thing with the postive cable, start at the battery and follow it to the starter. Make sure all connections are tight. Check the smaller wires on the starter solanoid and make sure the are tight. Sounds like either a dead start battery or a connection has come loose some where.
Check all the easy simple stuff first, before getting to worried.
Andre & Ann 2001 Liberty H345 no slides
78,000 miles
2014 4 DR JEEP RUBICON -
Huh! Great idea. We have windows on the driver’s side of our bedroom that are covered on the inside with upholstery, held in I think with velcro. I knew the upholstery gets hot when the sun is on that side. I think I’ll use this idea to insulate those windows. I suppose the shiny silver will show through the windows though.
I like the idea of having “white” window shades to cut down on heat gain, but like the “look” of the black ones.
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Al,
That’s a really cute shortened wheelbase mid1970’s GMC motorhome. Were did you find it and how much did it cost to acquire this really unique vehicle?
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There is a slow leak somewhere? in the aft/bdrm unit. To date I’m hesitant to put any stop leak in the system in fear of doing more damage than good. Everything works normally except it was blowing room temp air, not cold air. Ambient conditions were 83 degrees and high humidity.
Hooked the gauges up and the pressure in the system with it turned off was 102 psi which is low. Turned on the unit, opened the king valves(cw) and the pressures were suction/low 40 psi and discharge/hi 155 psi which are both low. There were also a lot of bubbles in the sight glass. The system was evacuated, then suction was put on it for about 15 mins. Then slowly liquid R-22(30 Lb bottle upside down) was added a little at a time(I don’t have a scale yet) to the system and temps and pressures were monitored. With my IR temp gun I noted temps at both king valves, and at the evaporator air inlet and outlet duct. As I gradually got close to having the proper charge in the system, all bubbles disappeared from the sight glass.
In the end this is what the #s were: suction/low side 70psi & 40 degrees, discharge/hi side 250 psi and 112 degrees, evaporator inlet 72 degrees and outlet 40 degrees. AWESOME!!!
New o-ring were installed on the king valve caps. I hope this will fix the slow leak.
I’m gunna tune up the fwd units soon too. Summer is here 🙁
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OK, so in my search, I finally find the “perfect” Coach for my needs and in my price range. I want Jeff at East Tenn. do a pre-inspection, but the Coach is in Dallas or Stanford Florida. How do I get the owner to drive it up to Jeff, and who pays the travel expense and time while the inspection goes on? Is the potential buyer or owner responsible for picking up the tab? I know I, as the buyer, has to pay for the actual inspection, Jeff’s tab, but with the other travel expenses is who’s responsible. Now, Jeff finds a fair amount of items to be fixed, not wants but needs; is that negotiated off the selling price and if the owner says no, it represents a lot of wasted time and money for both the seller and the buyer. How is that addressed prior to the pre-inspection? I expect the negotiation between a private seller will be different from a commercial dealer/seller who might do their own inspection and might be offended if you push for an independent inspection. I would appreciate anyone’s thoughts. Michael
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Here’s my suggestion. Have Clark deal with the engine issue(s). Then drive down to ETLC.
Jeff may not be able to handle you right away unless you make a prior arrangement, but he or one of his guys can do a quick basic check to see if they have any concerns. If you can schedule an appointment to have Jeff do a 100% inspection he will give you recommendations on a maintenance program and likely deal with immediate issues.
The only way anyone can really evaluate what is going on is to spend time beneath it and that person needs to understand the coach and Jeff is the best one for that.
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Harry, There are a number of reasons for a dragging brake, if that is why you left those marks in the gravel.
If you want to keep it simple and not worry when you drive it the next time just go a short distance, like a mile or two and stop and just put your hand on the wheels as close to the hub as possible as soon as you stop. The wheels may be warm and all will feel about the same, but if one is dragging the brake you will notice it feels hotter than others.
Maybe the bearings aren’t getting enough oil, maybe the brake is not fully releasing, maybe the brake shoe return springs broke or maybe the slack adjusters are set too tight. Or maybe nothing is wrong. Just check to be safe.
As you learn the coach you will become not only more aware if something is going wrong, you will develop an understanding of the possible causes.
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Jon,
Thanks for the reply.
The part arrived from Prevost today. The yoke comes with the pin, so all is good on that end.
I tried to remove the old one this evening, and was able to loosen the lock nut, but was not able to budge the clevis
yoke. I think the threads might be damaged on the bottom of the threaded shaft.
Am I asking for trouble thinking about unbolting the brake chamber(tag lifter) to gain more access?
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If I’m not mistaken, Liberty said that I could go 25,000 miles with the Volvo engine. I have had it changed about every 10,000 miles but have now decided to have it changed at every chassis lube (6,000 miles) because it will be easier for me to keep up with it.
Safe travels,
Mark