DON
Forum Replies Created
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What’s wrong with a flip phone?????????????
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The reason I asked is there is a shop in FL that has done the headlight swap, and I know two people who had it done, and then had to pay serious money to another shop to have their repaired properly.
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It’s part of the cruise control. It’s a momentary switch that disengages the cruise control temporarily while pressed.
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Appx – how much fuel does my genset burn? I think its a 17.5K
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yes, like Jon stated
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Don’t think you will have trouble with it being below freezing for 10 hrs. I don’t do anything until it is hard freeze for at least 8 hrs (below 23) your bus is fortunate you live in a mild climate. It is heat sinked(sp) If you check inside temps prob in mid 40’s at lowest. Don’t drive on the ice!! It is not your friend. 4-wheel drives can’t do much better stopping on it than a car. I said it so let the flogging begin..I live on Ohio River. We are in ice belt where we get more ice than snow. Snow is much less hazzard! We had 1/4 inch of ice tuesday will not be above freezing for more than a week from now-Looking foward to snow forecast monday to help traction. You said 15 amp service. amps Xvolts=watts so a 15×120=1800 watts so how much do your heaters draw? Only good wishes from this side.. trainer will help you allot.
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You can look at the last few issues of Bus Conversion magazine for an article I wrote about using Li batteries for some or all of the house loads on buses where the house and chassis batteries are separate. Using Li for the inverter loads and lead acid for the 12vdc loads gives you the best of both worlds without the engineering down side some encounter using Li alone for all the house loads.
Solar can be easily integrated into recharging either Li or lead acid batteries by using one or more MPPT solar charge controllers dedicated to the Li and/or lead acid batteries. Never mix the two! In my bus I use four 100ah Li batteries for the inverter loads and two 8D AGMs for the 12vdc house loads. The chassis batteries are completely separate from these two. I have one 40 amp MPPT solar charge controller hooked to the Li batteries and another 40 amp MPPT solar charge controller hooked to the AGMs. I use four 120 watt portable solar panels and mix and match these to keep both the Li and the AGMs to about the same state of relative charge depending on how we use the coach, how much sun there is, and how long we run the generator each day while dry camping. These small portable solar panels will not keep up with the house loads but they do cut down on the generator run time in many dry camping situations.
Jerry
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I would be nice of the inverters kept track of the cycles and how low each was when the recharge began. Given the state of technology today, that shouldn’t be too hard to do.
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Eugene’s comment about never using the Webasto means it is NOT going to fire, period. So no Webasto for him till he gets it serviced. I am about an hour away.
Plus, as mentioned before, once serviced, a Webasto has to be fired once per month or more to keep fresh diesel on the nozzle. Sitting for weeks on end allows the diesel on the nozzle to congeal messing up the fine mist spray pattern of completely plugging it up, no diesel flow at all.
And, no one mentioned to open all cabinet doors below the sinks in the coach. The freshwater lines are all run up and down the walls. They need warm air in the cabinets to stay above freezing.
Winterizing the fresh water system solves all issues. But don’t miss the clothes washer or ice maker.
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Spending the night in the coach and then running the generator to provide power and running the Webasto is actually the safest. I’m plugged into 50amp/240volt here at home at temps this week down to -14*F at night and max of +15*F during the day. Water heater on, two cube heaters with fans in the coach, and the water bay heater on at night. I haven’t gotten close to turning on the Webasto yet. I check the coach in the morning and again late evening. Remote thermometer in the water bay.
The Hilgers have had their Country Coach out in Wyoming snowmobiling at -22*F and had no problems. They used the Webasto.
Spending a cold night in the coach will enable Eugene to learn how the coach reacts to the cold.
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If you don’t change coolant as an example it is completely reasonable to ruin an engine quickly.
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And thank you for that!
My computer does save the log in information so all that is necessary is to click one button.
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On our coach the DPDT front-rear start switch was intermittently bad and the key start switch would fail to make contact once in a while as well. Made trouble shooting problematic but after replacing both all issues went away. As cheap as it is to replace both I would do that on any late 90s to early 2000s Prevost. along the way the starter was also replaced but I doubt it was bad.
Jerry
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Disconnect the power then push on the buttons a couple of times, some what aggressively but not to crazy and they usually will release.
Chuck
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Ran DDEC test and got these codes:
13 – Coolant level circuit failed low
16 – Coolant level circuit failed high
22 – EFPA circuit failed low
43 – Coolant level low
46 – Battery Voltage low
52 – A/D conversion fail
they all pertain to coolant, but still don’t understand why it is not starting.