Dick
Forum Replies Created
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I wish we could, but while the week before works, this is the week that Ian goes back to school. 🙁
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In addition to what Tom said, you can also loosen the ball pivot mount which the strut attaches to on the door itself. By doing that, it gives you a little play. Then slip the end on, and there is enough room to tighten it back with the strut attached.
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Tom, do you recall if you got the 1/8 or 1/4 inch inlet/outlet? I am assuming it will use the 0-60 PSI and not the higher pressure 0-125 regulator.
Liberty is saying to get a solid inline pressure regulator, but I couldnt find one at the RV Store, all they had were the ones you attach on the end of the hose that attaches to the fill line. Would rather have something like what is there to make it more consistant. Of course that would mean there is still possibility of leak down the road. I guess replacing from the while coupler above the reg down to the grey T adapter with pipe and using the external regulator woudl reduce that potential issue?
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Charles,
I used an LF560 and also removed that plastic restrictor. LF560
When I removed the plastic restrictor, I found it full of teflon tape. This picture is looking down into the removed restrictor showing the tape.
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Jerry,
Go north on 411 and take 129 to Knoxville then I-40 to Seveirville. I always go that way, better than back tracking on 72 to I-75.
Also, if you get off I-75 at Cartersville to take 411 to Jeff’s, your 9 miles from my house when you cross hwy 140, we leave the light on….
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ha ha Jon. If they all drove like we do on this forum, we would all be in good shape!
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Congrats Diane, that was a nice bus, I saw it had a LOT of watchers on eBay so no doubt it was gonna move.
Pre- egr series 60, good conditions, 55 mph, and would not be totally surpirsed at those mpg numbers.
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We rotated 2 365 steers (44wk of 2012) to tag in Apr 2014. Lost one leaving OKC in Oct (4k mi). Pulled sidewall off for about 14 in. from outside first tread row. Had to get a tire at Prevo DFW (ouch) and put the other one on at Jeff’s ten days later. Re-thinking the practice of steers to tag. Geo.
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As in Glider Kit…a new cab and frame rails that you install your old running gear into. Basically an updated truck for less money.
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You know the time is getting even closer when it’s time to get insurance. Talking to the PC member insurance agency has gotten us a competitive quote but it is a little staggering compared to our previous coach. But, it’s good to have insurance for that catastrophic event. We’re checking a couple of other sources.
The cost of having fun in one of the top three highest quality coach conversions is a commitment for sure.
We did make one change on the tile backsplash in the half bath, it will be the same elongated tiles that will be in the rear bath. Originally, we chose a harlequin shaped tile and decided to go with a cleaner look.
Jim and Marijane, it looks like we will be in Naples the weekend of Nov. 7-9th as our coach delivery date has been pushed back a week. There was a fabric that was on back order and the coach will need to be serviced by Liberty. We will be staying at the Pelican Lake RV resort which is near our friends who live in Naples.
MM.
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Jon, Kevin Rutherford and Bruce Mallenson (pittsburg power) said Detroit actually made a non egr 14L for a very short time. Not sure if you “fixed” your EGR or not, but there is obviously a way to eliminate it on your coach. In trucking world ditching EGR is said to be .5 to 1 mpg, and better for the engine etc. Plug and play ways to get over 700 reliable horses out of the 12.7 or 14L.
I am sure that the Volvo is probably a quieter engine and perhaps maybe smoother than the Detroit but nowhere as easy to mod and reliable as the Detroit, not to mention easy to get worked on anywhere.
Anyways, not knocking the Volvo, ALL the oems had big problems, ISX cummins, acert Cats, DD15 etc issues with EGR and DPF etc etc. There is a big reason why people who do not have to run California are looking for pre emission trucks or building gliders.
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Jeff,
We are in Lufkin, Texas not far from you and we went from plastic coaches to Prevost and it was an upgrade for us to go down in years, we went from a 2005 4 slide 45′ Navigator to a 1998 Prevost H3-45 with 2 slides which we currently have for sale.
If you would like to see it we would be happy to show you so you can see why it’s an “upgrade” to go with a Prevost.
Also doing the upkeep yourself as long as you know what you’re doing is not too difficult especially if you get a good bus. There are lots of things to learn but lots of good help available too.
I have no clue what your desires are, but we can sure help you a little with basic some basic knowledge.
You can click on my name and email me if you have any questions.
There is “nothing like a Prevost” !!
Cheers, Diane
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Hi Corey,
I used to have that problem about a month ago with slow typing but it went away and the typing is normal. I thought it was my dying Apple as I need to get it replaced but there was another thread on this topic so it wasn’t just me.
Typing is good today.
Mark
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Diane:
Take a look at these Longacre master disconnect switches:
http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=1643
They are designed for racing, a master battery disconnect switch is required on every race car. These are designed to be mounted on the race car dash, hence the back is open. A handy guy, just about anyone who races could mount this in your new Suburban. I’d recommend having the back enclosed to keep from having an accidental short, especially in an accident. Your Suburban might come standard with two batteries. If it does, there are switches available that take the hot wires from both batteries and turn then into a single hot wire (all depends on how the two batteries are wired). The switch then gives you the ability to select A-battery, B-battery, both batteries, or off. Most NASCAR cars have two batteries today, which is why this double battery switch exists. A handy guy like Jeff Rowe should be able to fix you up.
Now that I can type faster than 4 characters a minute … have you looked in the owners manual yet? My Chevy HHR has a note in the owners manual that if I tow the vehicle the key must be in the on position and to keep the battery from dying the fuse #8 must be pulled. To date I have been pulling the fuse. You can buy a switch with a plug that goes into the fuse block, uses an inline fuse, and then has a switch you can flip for towing. Another item that a handy guy like Jeff Rowe could fix up for you.
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Diane,
This is what I use for the Jeep.
