[Dick]

Whine, whine, whine. Since Bill and I were unaffected by our generator exhausts whose exhaust is near our bedrooms also, it must mean Tom’s bedroom must be drafty and have open holes letting in odors, exhaust, bugs, etc.

[Dick]

Sorry since it didn’t have a P on it I didn’t notice!

[Dick]

Thanks Dick!

[Dick]

My Engine configuration looks like this:

Mounting Locations:

A= 50 DN

B= Tu-flo 750 Compressor

C= Vickers power steering pump

D= Blower accessory drive (unused)

E= Accessory Drive (unused)

[Dick]

I park my bus in a barn enclosed on two sides. The parking area is about 110′ long and the bus occupies about 20′ of the 45′ available. The concrete floor is sufficiently designed to support the weight of the bus. Because the barn is so deep and wide, my bus is never exposed to direct sun or rain, even though the barn is open on two sides.

The barn is part of a larger building that includes a shop and storage for ag equipment.

i never considered building a pit, concerned about the safety of my farm dogs and livestock that occasionally end up being where they are not supposed to be. I have never regretted skipping the installation of the pit. That said, I do not personally perform much service work on my bus due to my overwhelming work responsibilities.

I do not have to worry about the width of the entry door, but 14′ would be a bare minimum if I did. My rafter height at the entrance is 14′ 4″, which is just tall enough for my H3-45. The floor slopes down as I enter the barn, and the rafter height is about 16′ at the rear of the bus.

I see no advantage to having an excessively tall ceiling unless you need room for light fixtures. Even though I have exposed rafters, it is still a PIA to do any work on the roof when the coach is in the barn. If you are going to install lighting, I recommend doing so on the walls.

Once feature I included during construction was the installation of a french drain that runs the length of the parking area. I installed a deionizing system, and I can wash the bus where it is parked regardless of the weather and under artificial light, if necessary. I highly recommend that you consider this feature.

I agree with the advice of others regarding “go as big as your wallet and available space allows.”

Please know that I, as well as many others, are interested in spending your money.

[Dick]

My bus 50DN is 12 Volts. The VR for my setup is Transpo#698

[Dick]

When ever something is broke, my first step in finding out why, is to question what was the last thing I did, and could that have been the problem.

The next step is start at the beginning. The engine spins so you have 24V, but do you have strong 12V needed for DDEC so my next test would be to check for current at and beyond CB 19, 20, and 21.

If 12V power is there then I check sensors. I cannot speak with confidence every coach is this way, but if I had a stop engine light, I usually could start the bus, but then the SEL would time out and I would have shutdown. As described I get a sense monkeying with the sensor or its connection may be an area needing attention. After checking the easier stuff described previously that would be my next area to check.

[Dick]

Something I never thought about and many of us probably take for granted!

[Dick]

Don: Thanks for sharing all that information … including the PDF of how to get at the rocker switches.

The replacement lights in your links don’t look like the light in the last picture of the PrevostMan summary for the rocker switch. Or am I missing something.

Dick

[Dick]

Thanks Dick, I’ll add that to the list. I’ll ad a response on what I find, either later today or tomorrow.

[Dick]

I had bought the oil fill on eBay a couple of years ago.

[Dick]

Thanks Don for bulb info. Now can you tell me how you actually get the bulbs removed to install new ones.

[Dick]

Smith and Wesson makes a good one

[Dick]

Used parts for a Prevost that far back, you might have better luck asking around on the Bus Conversion Magazine site, as they have a forum also. Vintage Bus Mechanics forum on Facebook is another place to ask around. Some of the questions I would start asking is what years were the same body style as yours, this might widen your search window for Parts. Have you tried IBP or Prevost for new parts? When you say passenger, does that mean you need a door and stepwell also?

[Dick]

Thanks Jon, removal and installation, i can handle, looking for a someone that can look at it and test it is my quest currently. I have 4 possible scenarios in my head as to why i don’t have 12VDC out from this alternator. 1) The fiber coupler failed, alternator still good, just not spinning. 2) Fiber coupler failed due to alternator locking up, alternator not spinning. 3) Alternator failed due to some kind of massive load on it which broke the gear, alternator still spins. 4) the Gear is still installed, alternator spins normal, and Alternator is not producing power.