David
Forum Replies Created
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Chuck. No remote on my Progressive.
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Yes, but it involves a little change.
First, isolate the 12 and 24 volt cables going from the batteries no in place to the electric compartment. There should be 2 24V cables and 1 12V cable.
Install 4 24V 100 AH 8D LiPoFe4 batteries connected in parallel. You can use all of the existing short jumper cables and may need to add one or two more.
From the batteries connect to the 24V cables that go into the electric compartment. Then connect from the batteries 24VDC to 12VDC converters or reducers.. They are connected in parallel with each other and connect to the 12V cable to the electric compartment.
Depending on how and where you use the coach you might have to consider if you need to enclose the batteries in a compartment that can be kept above 32 degrees, or if you choose develop a procedure to revise the charging current to the battery manufacturer’s allowable current.
http://www.prevostcommunity.com/PDF/Relion%20Final%2024%20volt%20Installation.pdf
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So do we have a stable solution to adding lithium batteries to our coaches, even the 12/24 volt systems in liberty elegant ladys
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That`s what my six train horns are for ! Use them frequently sad to say but, if they`re not wearing their hearing aids in the prius, they only see my headlights full screen !!
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Im done. Im not messing with it anymore. Ive played this game plenty of times with my big rigs, cars, diesel trucks. I was hoping it was over engineered and its not. Its engineered for 475hp. When I order a Peterbilt with 600hp, its the same engine I get when I order 500hp, the difference is all down the line behind the engine. I leave it set to 600hp and just drive the gauges to keep it within tolerance. I spent about $1k on a bigger turbo, and $1100 on the tune, so its no big loss. The 14L is a different beast, different internals, more displacement, among other things. In the future I may drop in the 6067HK60 which is the DDEC 4 pre-egr 14L that in theory bolts in. Ill save that for another time though. Im currently in the middle of the battery swap and some remodeling on my house, so Ive got plenty of stuff to waste time and money on.
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This check valve is fitted after the control valve in my marathon, it will hold air for months, if the the valve orientation is correct and the c/v is good, all synflex connections and air bags are leak free.the system has to hold air.
if all the above are in good condition and fitted correctly it cannot leak down.
The circuit cannot differentiate between where the air is supplied from !
Provost,s are smart machines , but not that smart
You have a leak
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Yep, well said.
We have a saying around here that I think may apply. “If you can’t run with the big dogs, then don’t get off the porch”.
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The reason I asked is you mentioned your 12v 50DN which should be 24v.
I’ve had 3 Marathons and the last two, a 2002 and 2004, with 4024 inverters displayed the house 24v on Techlink and the Prevost 24v was displayed on the dash Telltale. So I’m not clear on your comment about an secondary charge source. Your house is charged via the inverters or alternator and the chassis is charged with the second alternator. I assume you don’t have Prevost OTR.
The dash gauge at 26v is the chassis and it’s too low. That would be the small alternator with an internal regulator.
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Our Sub Zero fridge has Vitricore on the doors. The plastic catches inside work fine IF the fridge door is empty and the freezer drawers are nearly empty. I am a country preacher and I still get paid in chicken sometimes and we often travel with both freezer drawers full.
I think those stainless latches would work on our unit as long as there is no wiring along the edge of the doors. I would hate to ruin something. This fridge is amazingly old and I do not want to replace it because of my stupidity.
The latch would mount where the red lines are in the pictures.
My other concern is if the strike plate would fit in the gap. What do you think?
Davy
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Jon, the answer to your financial wows is to have battery purchases go through “Jon’s Pay Pal LLC” that way you can re coup ten years of your share of the dues money.
And for those that think Tom is creating a rainy day fund for when his coach is out of warranty, hell he will just buy a new one.
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If the COVID doesn’t kill him, the cholesterol in those steaks will, eventually. . .
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The aux I was referring to is the prevo side, not the house side. The drop shown in the picture is about a day. The air bags are new and the fittings are compression. I soaped the fittings and no air escaping. I also have a ultrasonic tester and do not get any reading of leakage. Either I have a valve sticking or it is an internal valve leak. I will need to block up the bus to feel safe enough to get under to check further.
thanks
Alex
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Yellow valve Truk refers to…..under drivers seat.
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Just replaced all 8 of our XZE’s. They were 2011-2012 date codes and still looked great. Put them (plus 2 more) on a Pete.
XLEZ was the replacement unless buying from OEM mfg such as Prevost. Local tire shop/chain said in their opinion XLEZ was a better/more advanced tire anyway.
Edit – ours were XZA2 Energy that came off not XZE. XLEZ went on new.