[Dan]

Thanks Buddy. I’ll get right on it ASAP and let you know what I find.

Are you going to be at the Lakeland event?

[Dan]

Hi Chuck,

I am in The Villages, have a huge driveway and large shop for the Villages. Let me know if I can help with anything.

[Dan]

Chuck,

Please look at Truk4u’s post above. That is the website I am referring to. I have never had to register or log on to that site.

You might also do a Google search for EFS Locator.

[Dan]

Congrats Chuck, we are just up the road from you in Harbor Hills, Lady Lake. Just let me know if you need a hand with anything. I’m pretty good at holding a flashlight. Lol. Don & Cheryl. dwsjr169@gmail.com

[Dan]

John: On our Liberty, if the chassis batteries are taken down far enough neither the shore power (presumably through the inverter/chargers), nor the generator (presumably through the inverter/chargers), nor the alternator on the big Detroit Diesel will bring them back. This was my situation. Jeff Rowe explained “why” to me once, but I’ve lost that somewhere. I think whatever machine is doing the charging, has to see a charge before it will give a charge.

If you decide to follow my suggestion below, please remove all your jewellery (especially from your neck, hands, fingers, and wrists) and remove any metal belt buckle you might have on. If the batteries for some unexpected reason have juice in them, if you short out a connection with a metal (especially gold) ring, watch, or necklace you will experience something you will never forget.

I don’t know if what I’m about to tell you will work on your brand of coach or not. This is what Jeff told me to do on our 1999 Liberty (24 volt coach). Jeff told me (as Jon has suggested) that the batteries need some juice before they will accept a charge from the inverter/chargers (via shore power or generator power) or the alternator on the DD. He had me look at the house battery cut-off switches in our electrical bay. One is 24 volt, one is 12 volt. These are very large, high amp on/off switches (very similar to the “master switch” you might see in a race car). On the 12 volt cut-off switch, he had me hook the positive lead from my small Craftsman 12 volt car/truck battery charger to the incoming battery side of the switch on its back side. Negative from the battery charger goes to something steel on the chassis. Getting to the back side of the cut-off switch was not easy. I had to do this because our house batteries are “buried” behind stuff and are not easy to get to. If your house batteries are easy to get to, maybe you won’t have get to the back of the cut-off switch.

After a few hours, the house batteries should get some juice in the. You can unhook the 12 volt charger and plug the shore power in to see if the house batteries will accept a charge. If they won’t, try firing up the Detroit and see if the house batteries will accept a charge from its alternator. If not, you’re back to the 12 volt car/truck charger for a while. If the house batteries will accept a charge from the alternator on the Detroit, let that charge it for a while and eventually you’ll get the batteries to the point where they will accept a charge from the inverter/chargers powered by shore power (or your generator).

Keep in mind this is what worked on our 24 volt 1999 Liberty. If someone had a 12 volt Liberty of similar vintage I would probably do the same thing without much hesitation.

I think I’ve covered everything. If I’ve left out anything I expect others on the forum will fill in the holes or even provide you with another avenue to follow. Like I said, this is what worked on our Liberty.

If it turns out you need batteries, Tom is your man. Good luck!

[Dan]

There are several on here with knowledge of Legendary coaches. They might jump in. I have no clue how Legendary set up the valving or loops for the Webasto but aa good starting point would be to find out valves for house heat exchangers are fully open, and that a loop to the engine is closed and the water heater loop if equipped is closed just to see if that helps.

Are the fans all working? Is anything inhibiting air flow? Pick the low hanging fruit to insure everything has been done to maximize heat into the house before deciding to re-engineer the coach. Generally converters do a very good job and if something doesn’t work as it is presumed it should verify the systems don’t have something simple creating the problem like a duct not connected or properly directing air flow.

We have dry camped in temps as low as 26 below and have had ample heat, but we also did what we could to insure our comfort by doing things I said above and other small but sometimes important things like closing the blinds to get another layer of insulation between cold glass and the warm area.

[Dan]

I know Rocky(GoneCrazy) recently had a PS leak, it wasn’t a hose. it was the hyd assist cylinder on the frt right. He had it rebuilt. Maybe he’ll chime in here?

Here’s some old threads about our PS

PS cylinder link

PS link

[Dan]

It’s getting there 1 more thing down, Glad I found the hose that was getting ready to pop. Air leaks are almost gone.

[Dan]

les

We are at Durango dr. and Craig area about 10 or 12 mile from you old area.

[Dan]

Depps

thanks tor your number. 750 was first owned by “horse people. Then an owner “Greg” had the coach here in Coacgella Valley after buying it from consignment at Freedom RV in Tucson. Then a member of this forum bought it and towed a large stacker like trailer before relocating to Europe. So I suspect the large stacker car hauler had air brakes and suspension and maybe a rear camera. I forget all he had added. So you have a very unique bus, we’ve always liked it after seeing it in Jackson, Wy in 2003. Here list. (2001) 684, (2002)741, 750, (2003)784, 820, 826, 829, 830, 836, (2004)839. That’s it for 40 ft XLII’s built by Marathon. Being a 40,l and 500 hp, I bet you’ve noticed it’s a little hotrod

[Dan]

Diesel is cheap here in TX unless you go to Pilot/Flying J! $2.40 range at most fuel stations and $33 at PFJ. Paying for convenience really sucks!

[Dan]

Hi Art, thank you for all the detailed info. The 1200 dryer sounds normal with a 10-20 sec purge. I assumed the acc tank filled from the secondary tank. The pressure regulator to the acc tank holds air back until 70-75 psi. But on a previous coach that same pressure regulator filled at 75 psi but also started leaking above 75 psi. Definitely requires a closer look. The air dyer note regarding a normal 10 psi drop in 1 of the gauges is interesting. Maybe that is a normal response for the acc tank gauge. Again the acc tank regulator requires a closer look. Possibly a purge valve rebuild is in order.

Hi Doug, thanks for your experience with the check valve. I recently changed the check valve & decompression auto drain valve to solve a different issue of the aux compressor not restarting under head pressure load. At that time i checked the diaphragm of well pump pressure switch. It does not leak. Also no longer leaks back to the aux compressor.

Thanks again for all the great feedback. I have a couple more items to check into or live with it.

Roger

[Dan]

Yes mine was built when they did not use the reverse logic so it will not drop and it has the inversion valve. That drawing is after the reverse logic

[Dan]

really, that’s beyond sweet. what paint products and colors did you use?

[Dan]

630151 (Front & Tag) is not the mae west bags (630259) from my understanding. 630259 are taller according to archives here. Prevost was contacted about this by our members to correct this, but they are still confused! Illinois Prevost said frt = 630151, drive =630260 & tag= 630259 for my Vin #. Tech says the only way to know is to look on top of bag after removal to see model #. Great and what if I`m parked beside of road and service mechanic brings wrong bag or in a prevost facility changing bags and they don`t have the correct one in stock ! Poor Prevost efficiency !!