Corey
Forum Replies Created
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Alan
Might be better to tow a 2500 Sprinter than a 3500 since the 1ton has dual rear wheels. 2 cents -
Buddy,
I can’t believe what I just read.
There was talk about a rally in the fall of 2016. I’ll be crossing that tentative rally date off my calender.
Business must be good in northern MI.
AL
FWIW…I feel your pain Buddy getting to know you while at the Lakeland event. Seeing your highly detailed 1999 Prevost. I admired the attention to detail you have given your bus. It looks brand new.
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I am not either.
George and Corey have what I think is the best method for avoiding coach freeze-up. I wish we could implement it, but we’re not able to.
Last year I drained the water system on our coach (or so I thought) and blew it out with air. Right after New Year’s Day we headed for Jeff’s to have some work done. Arrived at Jeff’s on a Sunday night, he was to work on the coach on Monday/Tuesday. Plugged into his complimentary 50amp service and hooked up to his complimentary Tennesse fresh water. No water pressure in the coach and water running out from under the coach. Upon examination the Headhunter Mach ?? water pump was cracked wide open and the 15y/o water filter made of PVC pipe was cracked open. Fortunately Jeff had a new water pump in stock and explained the 15 y/o filter system wasn’t effective, so his guys installed the new water pump and bypassed the water filter after removing it from the coach. The busted filter created a problem with the refrigerator as the filter media in the filter got into the water line to the refrigerator and blocked the ice maker shut off valve open; result was water on the floor and Jeff’s had to pull the fridge out (which was enlightening to me to see), replace the valve, and clean up the water. Total costs were probably $1,500 to $1,700. Jeff said I missed removing a cap from the underside of the water pump which would have allowed the water pump to drain the residual water out of it, keeping it from freezing and breaking. I paid Jeff before we left.
While in Florida I ran into Frank Konigseder from Liberty and had him send us a manual. It was waiting for us when we arrived home at the end of January. Had great instructions for how to winterize the coach with RV anti-freeze, which I did upon returning home. No problems from the cold weather in Feb and March.
This year we’re planning on leaving for Florida immediately after Christmas. Rather than going through the RV anti-freeze exercise right now, this is my plan:
1. Coach is plugged into 50amp shore power, parked on the east side of race shop, somewhat protected from the westerly winds.
2. Water heater is on.
3. I’ve got two 1500watt heater fans running inside the coach to try to keep interior temps in the coach “up” and all the cabinets under the sinks are open. I’m also running two of the Cruise-Airs on heat mode.
4. I have a remote temp sensor in the water bay with the receiver console in the kitchen allowing me to monitor MIN temps in the water bay which has allowed me to “learn” how the water bay reacts to low temps.
5. Once the temps get below 15 degrees or so I expect the water bay to get into the 40’s. If that is the case, I’ll turn the heat gun on, unless I adapt Jon’s suggestion about a small ceramic heater set to 500watts and pointed at the water tank. (If I were to ever remove the water tank for some reason, I might consider putting bungs in the tank for an electric heater probe like we use in the oil tanks of the race cars, thermostat probe, and a thermometer probe which I think would provide better monitoring, control, and more direct and efficient heating of the water.)
6. If we get really cold temps (sub-zero) and I don’t think I can keep adequate temperatures in the water bay, I’m off to Camping World for 14 gallons of RV anti-freeze and will pump the water system full of anti-freeze per the Liberty manual.
Question: Is their any reason to heat the electrical bay in a Liberty? There is something that looks like a heater on the ceiling of the electrical bay.
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Corey
MemberNovember 25, 2015 at 5:42 pm in reply to: Control of shades seems to be related to temps!Dick, Liberty folk don’t apologize. Geo.
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Yes interesting,
We had this dis-continued rumor about a month ago. My contact here in KC called Atlanta and was assured the program was alive and well.
NAPA-AITA web site just went through a overhaul adding more features to help customers find NAPA stores honoring the program.
Click below to go to NAPA-AITA site
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I was going to….but I can’t….it’s just too easy. Geo.
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As a pessimist I have a team of experts on standby available to keep my various high tech electronic devices in perfect working order. So far they have kept my flip phone, cassette player, and Polaroid camera in tip top shape.
Tom is fibbing because when the cassette player stopped playing the Lennon Sisters I went into emergency mode and switched over to the 8 track. I also have the video in Beta format.
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Hi Ted –
I think it will be easier to replace the illuminator with newer technology than to find an LED replacement bulb. Here are pictures of the existing system.
June

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Tim:
So if Jeff turned it on and it worked, that simply means that you will have to haul Jeff with you during all of your travels. Fortunately he does not eat as much as his workers do, so that is one good thing. Just be careful he does not charge you by the hour for ‘stand-by’ time waiting for you to want to control something with the SMX.
Enjoy that new coach.
3-F
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Hey Guys,
I just got off the phone with Bill Jenson from Prevost. He has read the full Blog and I futher explained my personal situation. I am confident that a resolution will be forthcoming.
Bill -
I understand that, but what would make the SMX control box shut down, go blank? I had the Webasto on so I wasn’t using the cruiseairs as heat pumps, right?
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I went back with high E glass single pane and can’t tell any differance and there is no future hazying issue. The charts show almost no differance between 2 on efficiency. less than $150… Bob
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Thanks Ben!
Nothing seems to be easy. Always a “twist”.
I was wondering about power to the thermostat, you answered the question.
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Thanks Ben for your input.
Let me make sure I understand. You believe that I should leave the chargers set at 15 amps but turn my shore cord setting down to 45 amps?
I just went to adjust the shore cord settings and found both were set at 47 amps I turned them to 45 amps.
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BA, the hoses have to have the “humps” and the metal rings due to the internal pressure of the system. An EGR coach is putting out 50 PSI and the rings literally keep the hose from bursting.
I think Jeff showed me one that had a broken ring and the flex part popped because of that.