Corey
Forum Replies Created
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Jon;
Thank you for the tip. I wonder why the wear pattern increased on the tag and would not increase in the drive position?
Per;
I have also had good luck at Prevost – Ft. Worth. I am heading there this week.
Michael
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Wishbone you ole Pirate, I told Mstruk you’re keeping track of my “last coach” and I think I heard her say we don’t need not stinking slides.:)
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I would be disappointed if you didn’t…
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I have the same black stricks, but on the drive axle wheels. I have checked every item with no notable leaks. My only conclusion is the plastic chrome hub cover rubbing aganst the wheel.
Larry Nelson
2002 XL II Vision
12 Honda CRV
HURRICANE, UT
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The air system needs about 90 PSI or thereabouts to get the rear to max height on my coach. It needs about 110 for the front to go to max. But you can encourage more height with some tricks. First, make sure the air bags are getting max pressure. Only give the level low the raise command when the aux system pressure is at max pressure.. That might mean commanding “up” when the aux pressure is at 120, and turning it off when the pressure drops to 115 or 110. Then fan the brakes to get the compressor running again to pump the pressure back up where you repeat the process. That is an extreme method, but will get max height.
You can cheat a little to get the front up higher by lifting the tag while commanding the front “up”.
You can get the rear support point higher (which is behind the tag) by lowering the front. That pivots the chassis around the rear axles and gives you some additional height. You cannot get moreon one end if you have gone to extremes on the opposite end because if you get the max from the front for example the best you can do is just lift the rear to whatever it will give because the front supports are in front of the axle (in my case) so I am not pivoting the chassis to cheat a little.
I am usually leaving air space between the chassis and the support except when I have ot pull the wheels or otherwise lift an axle. I work on the coach with that air space there because the chassis is only going to drop about 1/4″ if something bad happens. Leaving air space and then coming back a week later after my work is done and being able to pull out the supports tells me my suspension is still holding well.
The height limitation is controlled by our shock absorbers. I am always afraid of trying to squeeze every fraction of inch of height from the air bags because all that force is not only lifting the chassis, but is pulling on both ends of the shock absorber.
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Until you are sure the fans are working as they should don’t worry about cleaning a condenser coil. Chances are that this entre problem is related exclusively to the fans not pulling enough air across the coils.
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I like my phone. I turn it on when I want to make a call. I turn it off when I am done. No camera, voice mail, text and best of all, I never get phone calls on it.
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Could it be that the toad brakes are being applied whenever the coach brake lights come on, and on many coaches those break lights come on when the Jake brakes come on. That would put more wear on the toad’s brakes & tires. Nothing’s been said about the toad’s brake wear; how is that?
Not a perfect post; it’s late!
Good luck.
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Jon, seems to me that the importance of aux air is akin to the importance of a fresh water pump. And I have seen your backup water pump. So just wondering when the backup aux compressor makes it to the top of your list?
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Yes, that is correct. The electrical panel can be tipped out a little with the removal of a few screws around the perimeter. If you are sure it is dead for your safety, it would not hurt to inspect the connection at each breaker to make sure the screws are tight. If they loosen that becomes a point where heat can be generated so as long as you are in there it is an easy check.
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Al,
We are also sending our condolences. We never had the chance to meet but feel like we know the both of you from this PC site.
Sincerely,
Mark and Craig
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If there is enough interest in all things concerning Alaska, we could dedicate a topic to those discussions, especially if a PC group or caravan becomes reality. I haven’t discussed this with Jon, but we’re a little gun shy on adding functions because some have turned out to be a complete waste of our time and resources.
We’ll hear from Jon on this, so stand by.
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Per,
The folks from Inverter Services should be contacted directly. I think they have a very strong affinity for the inverters you currently have in the context of their ability to work for your application. The inverter is very robust which makes it ideal for those times an owner may opt to run an A/C from an inverter. They made it clear there is currently no inverter available as good for your application because while the ratings of replacements appear equal they are not. Running an A/C on inverter is a substantial strain.
That perhaps is why they made it a point to recommend if an A/C is to be run it should be on generator or shore power.
However as you are aware some appliances now will not operate properly unless the inverter(s) are pure sine wave so if you opt to go that way they can likely make recommendations for replacements that are best suited for how you are going to use the coach and ease of making the switch.
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wires are just wire tied to the equalizer wires and run seperate with a toggle switch to energize that circuit..