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There might be hope for me after all. Our TV at home looks like the back of a computer with all the wires and cables, inputs and outputs.
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John,
The wire gauge is not the issue, according to the guy at the shop, the distance to the meters is just too long. He did a calculation using 30′ of 14 guage wire and told me I’m losing about 50% of the value by the time it gets to the meters. I have a Fluke to check the amps. I hooked up one of the meters at the electrical panel directly to one of the donuts and it matched my Fluke. I had 25 amps going, so I then hooked the meter back up front and it was about 50% less.
I’m not an AC expert, so if you come up with a solution, I’m all ears.
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Will take pictures tomorrow then get kids involved (computer literate). Now is the time before I get to far along so one can see what is under the finished product. Didn’t mention but the lumber used in process is also a hobby. We have Steam engines and run Saw Mills as a hobby. Many of the cabinets-floors etc actually come from our property. Bob
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John & Lee,
The donuts are mounted properly on the heavy gauge wire for leg 1 and 2, the 14 gauge is the wires coming from the donut all the way to the gauges. That appears to be the problem due to the excess distance. There is no way to get extra loops through and around the donut unless I add additional heavy gauge wire to leg 1 & 2 and I don’t want to do any splicing. Besiides, it’s all so tight in the electical box, I doubt I have enough room.
The donuts are mounted inside the electrical box in the bedroom John. They are mounted in the top of the box with the leg 1 & 2 running through them. It’s really tight in there, not much room. I also had to relabel some breakers due to changes made in the past and got everything sorted out and properly labeled. I’m glad I tackled the project because now I know everything is correct in the panel.
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We just found a travel agent that can get spots at Fort Wilderness, a relative rarity. We will be there February 17-20. Let me know if interested and I’ll hook you up with the lady. She may help POG 2013 if needed.
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Most interested! I can’t help with the photo posting here, but would like to look at what you’re doing. Try sending some to ron62g at yahoo dot com.
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Tom,
I hate to admit it, but I can’t find the donut current transformers on my coach. Were are they located on yours?
It appears that I have the same gauge panel you do. Figured it was easier to ask than take everything apart.
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I have NO -intentions- of ever building my own, and you may have to teach me the diff between a wrench and screwdriver (I have no idea what a relay does) but I would pay to go too. I love to learn everything about everything.
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Oversimplified maybe, but at least I have some sort of an understanding. Thanks!
I’m really looking forward to the bidding for a week of training with Jon at POG XI, or wherever else we run into each other.
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A few operating Questions???? Direct me to How to post pictures I’m doing ceiling/with led light trays– in 98 now that might be of intrest to some. Would it be best to list under which heading? Bob
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Tom,
John is correct, you should be able to loop either the primary or secondary wire to compensate for your problem.
This link may help
Cant seem to paste link, button is greyed out. Perhaps you can help Tom
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Make that another vote for the SSP50. Been 3 years and still out there working right now.
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Ron,
Don’t underestimate the value of your FAA licenses. That is a good foundation for Prevost specific knowledge.
Last July John Klopp and I attended Prevost training in Nashville at the service center. We had the opportunity to attend a variety of different classes and they were real sessions, not PR type meetings. I think we both slipped through the cracks because everyone else attending we either a mechanic or a converter. I believe if there are enough of us who want the continuing education we can get it. I know speaking for myself I want to go back to improve my understanding.
We will have participation from Prevost soon on this forum (they and we have to sort out how to best do it) but the bottom line is this is a good discussion to have. I hope John Klopp will also share his thoughts.
Having said that, keep in mind that despite how good Prevost Training is, we are very fortunate to have expertise among our members already that can address just about any topic we choose to explore. Two that come to mind are Hector who has agree to share his training session on the pneumatic systems and especially the level low suspension system logic, and John Klopp who brings his air conditioning (heat transfer) knowledge to the table.
But bottom line we will be working toward a rally in 2013 with good seminars, an ability to view the Prevost Webinars, and hopefully Prevost Factory training for those who want it. In the meantime we will also be loading articles. As a final thought we will be asking converters to also participate in our discussions and to share their knowledge.
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Bob,
Glad to see you have joined us. There is one thing we want to do with this site is to bring together the wide range of owners, operators and drivers of conversion coaches. We all have experiences and knowledge to share and we all can learn from the experiences of others.
As John pointed out only a few of conversion coaches ever go through life without modifications over time. Whether someone is starting from a seated coach, or just bought the latest Marathon conversion, it is almost a sure bet those coaches will be modified and we all learn from others what works and what doesn’t and how to maintain what we have.
You may find yourself to be our resident slide expert. There are a lot of Prevost coaches with slides now in operation, and those slides are not only from Prevost, but from a variety of manufacturers. You may be the only owner that has built his own slides and your success at doing so may influence others. I hope you will share your knowledge and experience.
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Karl,
Unless a new owner was a bus conversion designer, mechanic, or builder in a previous life most of what we have on our buses is puzzling until we get an opportunity to learn what they are and how they work.
The voltage regulator that Truk has pictured maintains the alternator output at a specific voltage level. It regulates the voltage. Some regulators are internal to the regulator. They can only be accessed by opening up the alternator. Some external regulators are adjustable, some are not. But they all function in a similar manner. The regulator allows electrical current from the batteries to pass into the alternator windings. When that happens the spinning alternator generates voltage. The amount of voltage will keep climbing unless that voltage to the “field” is interrupted. As soon as the voltage drops, the regulator restores the flow of electric to the alternator field post, and when if gets to the upper limits the regulator has them set at, the flow of current is interrupted. This goes on a a rate we cannot see on a voltage meter. To us the output voltage looks steady but the regulator is actually working cycling current to the field wire as required to hold that steady voltage output.
If your alternator stops producing voltage and your indicator light on the dash comes on, it is usually very easy to determine if the alternator is bad or if the problem is in the regulator. Using a jumper from the battery to the field wire on the alternator will instantly tell you if the alternator is working. If it is the voltage output from the alternator will shoot up (uncontrolled) because it is not regulated you know the alternator is good.. If doing that does not change the ouput on the alternator it is probably the regualtor that has gone bad.
I think in the very near future we will be adding some articles that will help. The above is an oversimplification.