Andy
Forum Replies Created
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Thanks to Tom our ad is up and running. If you know of anyone looking for a good bus please refer them to the PC ad and ask them to get in touch with me if they have additional questions. I have documentation for everything.
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If I were to make the trip there would be a comprehensive pre-trip inspection including a DOT brake check. Ideally I would have access to the underside of the coach and I would look for leaks. The DOT check would reveal air system leaks, but you would need to visually inspect for coolant, fuel, oil or hub seal leaks.
I would inspect the tires and my guess is they are going to be old. In a perfect world they should be replaced with current date code tires, but if that is not likely I would carefully inspect for sidewall cracking and if any use the Michelin photo array to determine their acceptability for use. I would insure the tires had the correct air pressure for the weight carried.
If possible I would feel all coolant hoses for a soft or spongy feel and replace any hoses or clamps that were questionable. I would replace all fuel filters. Ideally I would change fluids, including coolant, oil and transmission fluid. I would change oil and transmission filters and cut open the old ones to check for signs of metal.
Usually relocating a coach like this the luxury of replacing items that do not age very well might not be feasible, but at the very least I would want to know where and how to get critical spares or have some to carry. I am thinking of air bags, brake chambers or brake chamber diaphragms.
Obviously I would carry ample fluids such as coolant, oil, etc.
Differential and hub oil levels are important and I would insure they are all full. The hubs in the non-driven axles should not be overfilled, but should be filled to the oil level ring on the hub cap.
If the tires are aged and not going to be replaced carry spares, mounted if possible. Make sure you have the tools to not only change tires, but a selection of common tools just in case.
Do some internet driving and identify and print out locations and contact information for Detroit/Allison dealers, tire shops, and tow companies along the way or at least have internet access with you just in case.
We all want perfect coaches, but ferrying older coaches is a whole other world and all that can be done to minimize risk should be done within the confines of what is likely a modest budget. Under no circumstances would I pass up opportunities to do a pre-trip inspection all over again at every rest stop when I would get out for coffee or fuel.
Make sure you have plenty of fuel filters and the tools to prime and change them unless you know for certain the fuel is clean and free of water.If there is any way possible, before departing I would get some local miles on the coach to test for water or dirt in the filters that are on the coach. An 8V92 can be primed at the port where one of the fuel filters mounts so I would insure I had a means of pushing fuel under pressure through that port in case a fuel filter gets plugged with dirt.
Make sure the batteries are strong. Make sure the electrical system is OK and if there is any doubt look for corrosion, bad grounds, etc. all of which will shut you down.
Have fun, enjoy the ride.
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The Amana in our Liberty quite working sixteen or seventeen years into its life. I posted the problem to the Garage Journal Forum and one of the responders said that once I got the unit pulled out so I had access to it, he’d walk me through diagnosing the three possible problems that could easily be replaced (which probably include the items listed above). He said anything beyond those three would mean to junk it.
Then I talked to Jeff Rowe. He said, “Yes you could try to fix the easy things. But how much longer do you expect the refrigerator to work. What if the compressor fails when you’re on a long trip with $400 worth of food in it in the middle of nowhere?” So I decided to bite the bullet, bought the Kenmore that fits, and had a local, large RV dealer/sales operation replace it.
The Kenmore works, but came lacking a bunch of flat shelves and shelves in the door that we had to buy extra. I don’t think it’s as nice as the Amana, but gets the job done for us.
I wonder if there will be Amana’s still running at 25 or 30 years?
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Davy and Everyone,
Here’s a DDC pdf link about coolant etc
Here’s a Cummins/Fleetgaurd coolant product link
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Just my opinion, like I said above, I wouldn’t operate the engine under a load until the SCA’s are up to the proper level. That means to me no driving, and no turbo boost. Idle and fast idle are O.K.
If you decide to drive it you will be causing some cavitation damage as stated above. Will you have an immediate engine failure? Probably not, but you are, in fact, causing some amount of cavitation damage every time you run the engine under a load without the protection of the SCA’s.
Is it possible to add enough SCA’s to the mixture I have now to permit me to drive to one of the option above?
Yes. Just to be clear, you won’t be buying coolant in gallon jugs, you’ll buy concentrated Supplemental Cooling Additive (SCA). The coolant test strips will give you an indication when you have the SCA concentration up to the proper level. They will likely show low for glycol (freeze) protection but it’s acceptable to operate the engine under a load (as in drive it) until you can get the coolant serviced properly.
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Probably a difference also if your coach has Allen Bradley system (elegant vs classic?)
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Thanks Jim…
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Only if you have EAO Switches in your Marathon coach. Here are some pictures of the tools you can buy from Mouser Electronics.
Lens removal tool is $140 – Takes lens off in less then a second
Bulb removal tool $3.50 – Does not mar up bulb
Switch Dismantling tool is $140 – Use to Take Switch Apart from backside
I bought T1-.75 Red and Green bulbs as well. Nice and bright.
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Fred,
we are in
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Part 2
- A look inside Samantha and Kyle Busch’s Liberty Coach
- Is Liberty a custom- or spec-coach builder?
- How Lithium Ion batteries deliver more comfort and convenience over AGM or lead acid batteries.
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These are T1-3/4 MG (Midget Groove) LED’s. My Marathon has EAO 61 series switches. Marathon had the panels made by Swiss company EAO. The bulb in your picture is a 7 emitter bulb just like mine. However, finding this bulb will be troublesome its just old. Newer technology is available.
Marathon Part # is 103221 or their secondary MFG PN 31-968.15 is $16.39 each
You can find the EAO replacement on Mouser site by typing in this part number below:
EAO PN# 10-2J09.1065 this is a green LED 12vdc (single emitter).
In quantities of 10 = $9.50 each roughly
To access the bulb I take two 12 spark plug gapping flat blade tools with rounded face edge. Slip them at the top and bottom of lens where the lock grove is located. The groove is just barely in from the face. Tilt the top blade up slightly and pull it toward you and your feel it engage the locking grove. Do the opposite for bottom gage tool but push gage tool down. Pry gently on both gages toward you and bezel will pop out.
You can find the tool in the EAO catalog for series 61 switches.
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Waltshires, I think those are too big. Our lights are .228 inches wide and .565 inches long. They also have a 7 cluster light arrangement in that small bulb. Maybe that is why they are so expensive.
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Corbin Russwin is a high quality lock. If you can find a locksmith that will rebuild it you will probably be better off than finding a replacement.
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I don’t know why I read that yesterday as the certifier was checking out the vehicle rather than ensuring that the driver can demonstrate the pre-trip checks. I’ll just be over here hopping around looking for a pry bar to remove my foot from my mouth.
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Andy, You meant 32 not 23?
I did notice on the sat view there was a Marathon with truck islands at the corner of Mi-32 and US-131. Prices are unknown.
Last Loves before Cincy looked to have good prices.