Andre
Forum Replies Created
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We had our fogged Prevost double pane in the cockpit and door replaced with single pane this past summer. Had it done at RV Fog Doctor in Searcy, AR. Much cheaper than having new Prevost double pane, or even having the seals repaired in the old double pane, which they would have done if I’d have chosen to go that way. Since these 4 windows were the only double pane windows on the coach, I didn’t/don’t see any downside in having them replaced with singles. So far, so good…and no concerns about “fogging” in the future.
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Charlie, there may be a few among us who have worked out a parking diagram on paper, but all of us eyeball the situation and either decide to give it a try, or we just know it isn’t going to work and don’t even try.
If your situation is as described my gut tells me it will not work. If you assume a 40 foot coach you literally will have half its length in the driveway while the other half still completely occupies the road, and to get that front half in the driveway you have to be parallel to the driveway and perpendicular to the road. To get to that position you have to start with the driver’s side wheels at the driveway curb cut. In other words you will be on the wrong side of the street. Then you have to have the steering wheel cut full left, and back until your wheels on the passenger side are about ready to drop off the driveway pavement. At that point you have to pull forward and hard to the right, repeating the process. The fly in the ointment is the driveway paving is about 6″ wider than the coach and each time the wheels are at the edge of the blacktop or concrete the chances of breaking the pavement are substantial unless you have a better grade of pavement than normal.
And then there is some reality at play. The production of 40 foot coaches dropped significantly when the 45 foot coaches were produced. Add to that the sharpest turn radius is when the coaches came equipped with IFS and your ideal coach to make this work is a rare one relatively speaking.
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The RO filter is much more effective than canister or charcoal filters. I would keep it personally since its already there; you never know what you get when you hook up.
The RO filter allows water through very slowly. It probably will take about an hour to fill a gallon accumulator after the RO filter. If it only feeds the fridge, it might be half that size. With what Jon said, it should only take ~4-5 gal of supplied water to fill it up. That shouldn’t cause the pump to cycle so much that it errors. Can you tell how much water is going back to the water fill?
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Bottom line: Randal has opted out of paying $80 per month and is providing his own access to data, and can use his access as the IP address so if needed Liberty can communicate with his coach if needed, and so Randal can access the internet for less money.
Randal, did I get it right?
BTW, I use the Jetpack for my MiFi and doing my PC work for a week I use about 1.5GB.
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Here in NC we have plenty of Diesel but the mom and pop stores are just completely out and even some QT, Hess and Sheets. Out of Gasoline. Filled up today at 27 Diesel.
Shortage is real here and word is a week or longer before the flow restored.
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I can find no Allison approved interval that exceeds 48 months. Transynd is very expensive but far cheaper than a transmission.
http://www.allisontransmission.com/docs/default-source/service-documents/st1099s.pdf?sfvrsn=2
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When we have traveled, the one thing we noticed is that no matter what kind of rig, what age, or what the value, every single RVer was enjoying himself.
When we ran into folks we did not want to park next to we realized if had nothing to do with the type, age or value of their rig.
BTW, to add to my previous comments about Hearthside and others that have restrictions, Tom and I found that the excuse for the restriction was the lot owner’s association established that rule, yet in clear violation of their own rules there were lot owners whose coaches exceeded the allowable age limits. When we pointed that out there was no acceptable explaination of that violation. The deciding factor was one of the PC members whose coach is drop dead gorgeous and is one of the nicest there is was told he couldn’t even buy a lot because his coach exceeded the age.
I won’t patronize any RV resort that has those restrictions whether my coach complies or not.
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Mr. Mark: You mentioned that you run the Cruise-Airs through the inverters while on the highway (because of the number of slides you can’t have OTR) and that when you get to the campground you fire up the generator because you don’t want to a heavy pull on the shore power by the Cruise-Airs and the inverters recharging the batteries. Don’t you have a huge 24 volt alternator running off your bus engine that keeps the house batteries topped off and the provide enough power for the inverters to run the Cruise-Airs? Or do the Cruise-Airs pull so much juice that inverters take all the 24 volt alternator output and leave little or nothing for the house batteries?
Dale: We’ve had our Liberty with OTR since May of 2014. This is our first ever motorhome. We rented a late 80’s Prevost CC for a long weekend race trip back in 2012 or 2012 to see if it would work for us (guess what the result of the test was!).
A friend introduced me to Liberty, Prevost, and OTR back in the late 80’s and into the 90’s. We made a number of trips in his coach and he was a very strong advocate of OTR. So when we went looking for a coach Liberty and OTR were very high on the list … right up there with a private commode.
I don’t see us in the desert southwest or tropical Florida in the summertime … except for maybe a trip to the Bonneville Salt Flats in August and September (hopefully on a regular basis). But we use the OTR on a regular basis.
If we’re driving into the sun and temp is above say 65 or 70, we need OTR to be on; outside air coming through the front of the coach doesn’t keep it cool. Sunny day with temps in higher 70’s or more, OTR is on. High humidity, OTR is on. When traveling long distances we typically overnight in rest stops along the Interstate. So when we stop after driving a few hundred miles it doesn’t take long and the heat from engine, transmission, rear end, radiator, coolant, etc. starts to creep into the bedroom. When we stop the coach batteries should be all topped off by the DN50 and I don’t like running the generator unless I need to. So about an hour before we stop I’ll make sure the coach temp is as low as possible and turn the fan up to get the back of the coach as cold as possible. That usually keeps the drivetrain heat out of the bedroom unless the outside temp is much over 70 or 75 … then we often run the generator and a Cruise-Air or two.
We hope and expect to go to Alaska next summer. We’re planning on going to Liberty Harbor RV park on New York Harbor in the fall to visit friends in the NJ/NYC/SI area for a week or more. I’m expecting that we’re going to use the OTR on both those trips, not as much maybe as if we were in AZ in July and August, but unless temps are seasonlly cool we’ll be using the OTR on those trips. Eventhough you intend to use your coach in Canada, I see that you often have temps in the higher 70’s and well into the 80’s in the summertime throughout the provinces.
One of the things I really like about OTR is that it works just like the A/C in the car. Turn it on, adjust the temp (front and rear like a Suburban), adjust the fan (front and rear like a Suburban). No need to turn on the generator and fire up the Cruise-Airs or roof airs and manage them or if you’re lucky manage inverter load.
That Liberty without OTR is one of three or four coaches built about the same time in what I’m told was an attempt to get the price point down back in the day. I discussed one of them with Jeff Rowe a few years ago and he seemed knowledgeable about them. I passed on it primarily because it didn’t have OTR, can’t remember the commode arrangement.
If you’re vaciliating between OTR and non-OTR and a non-OTR coach checks all the boxes, ask the seller how he or she manages the A/C to be comfortable in warm, hot, and/or humid weather. If the seller is honest,you should get a feel how it will work for you.
If you’re thinking about long trips and have to decide between OTR and a separate washer/dryer … while I don’t do the wash, I might vote for the separate W/D. We’ve done two three to four week trips to Florida so far and I can’t believe how often Cathie is washing clothes. I’d rather eat bees with Jon than make a trek to the laundermat every few days.
Originally we started out looking for a 40′, IFS, S-60, Liberty with OTR. 40′ because I thought that would hold the price down and we planned on towing the 24′ race trailer (w/3′ tongue) often (total 67′). At the All Prevost Show in Tampa we looked at many 45′ footers and then looked at a really, really nice 40′ Liberty being sold by broker in the Lakeland area. Having the 45′ footers fresh in our minds and looking at the extra room in the 45′ over the 40′, I made an instant decision that 45′ was for us. I also realized that not all the extra 5′ was in the wheelbase, some of it was behind the tag. Granted odds of high centering the coach with a 40′ is less than 45′. A 40′ coach is more manuverable in tight places (especially with the trailer) than a 45′; but probably not by much. I am very, very happy to have the IFS vs the SFA. We live on narrow town road and getting out and back in is tight. The coach gets parked in the 26′ (less over hang) between the race shop that also is where the race trailer is parked. I feel having the IFS really makes a difference for me. So far I haven’t had to deal with the consumables in the front suspension, unless those were included in the zero out that Jeff Rowe did.
We had no maintance records on our coach when we bought it (even though it was essentially as one owner) and the tires were well beyond five years. Figure $10,000 for tires (Michelin deal) and batteries (get the PC Forum discount on Lifetimes through Tom). If someone who knows what their doing (like Jeff Rowe) and treats you fairly (like Jeff will) zero’s out the coach expect to spend $20,000 (pretty much regardless of vintage/age of coach). Hoses, belts, air bags, brake chambers, filters, fluids, inspection time, Cruise-Air inspection, roof air inspection, OTR inspection, etc. There just isn’t any easy way around it. We found our coach 18 miles from Jeff’s shop. He wouldn’t drive it when he saw the date codes on the tires, seller drove it over to his shop. Jeff wouldn’t let me drive it without new tires. The coach had just sat for almost two years with almost NO miles put on it. We bought at 70,000 miles. We’ve had some surprises since buying it … original Amana refrigerator crapped out (it isn’t cheap to remove the dead one and install the new one) and if the numbers are right, I am one of seven Prevost motorhome owners in history who have to replace the Carrier OTR A/C compressor (I think that was around $3,400 with labor at Jeff’s) in spite of Prevost owners in the HVAC business who told me those compressors go for like 10’s of thousand of hours and decades of use in commercial applications. My experience is out in the tail of the distribution!
I hope this helps put things to perspective.
BTW: I don’t think there is anything wrong with what Jon refers to as “the simple coach”, eventhough we have what was probably one of the most sophisticated coaches built back in that day. The only time we turn the Tivoli lights on is during visitor tours or to impress a neighbor in the campground. I can’t get the neon under the coach to turn on. During those tours I often mention that when you buy something used like we did, you get what the original owner spec’d out even if he or she used a vintage New Orleans bordello motif in the stateroom. I like the Creston and Sunmullon switches but in a few cases they are in the wrong places, don’t change color when the Sunmullon’s are pressed, and don’t control what I want them to control. I live with it and love the coach. You will likely do the same.
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I have experienced exceedingly high water pressures and strongly suggest if you are ever in a park with them you do the following in sequence. Connect to the water supply but do not turn it on. Open all the valves or actuate your water tank fill feature. Turn on the park water supply, fill your water holding tank, and when full turn off the park water supply to the coach. Use your pump and on board water supply, not the park water pressure.
Do not turn it on unless refiilling the holding tank. Do not allow it to pressurize your coach system. Even with a spigot only partially open, over time the pressure on the coach and its systems is going to equal the park water system pressure unless you have a pressure limiting device on the coach that you know for certain works. It is not worth the risk.
High water pressure typically will open the temperature pressure valve on a HW tank. If the wrong valve is on the HW tank the next weakest link in your plumbing system may leak and that might be a shut off valve failure, it may leak at fittings or connections, and the end result could be a flooded coach.
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Jack what setting did you put them on , I have them on my bus but only on steer and drive and prevosts yellow on tag I love them
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Get coach net and they will get you a tire no worries and they pay ask for the tire program I get my tires from Prevost if I have a problem they get me one from where ever but it is a michelin, I can’t believe the stupid things people do or say when people have a blow out or need a new tire , you have got to be kidding me tow it I would like to see that , unless it was on a trailer,I think I will have a drink too !!!
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I’m right there with you, Hugh. My “missile” is more like 25 tons and I’m not interested in seeing what might happen if it ever got out of control. Since the speed limit in CA is 55 while towing, which I almost always do, I just set my cruise control at 62 and let the cowboys pass me by. Due to the high heat, I had slowed down from my usual and was travelling at 60 when I had my blowouts.
Surprisingly, most truckers run about 62mph in California. Of course that speed may be influenced more by the state of the roads than desire to comply with the law…
I’m curious. As a large fleet owner, did you have any special rules for your drivers when they experienced extreme temps? Did you ever receive any information from tire manufacturers about high temp operating?
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If it’s a series 60 12.7 L it will need to be done at 750,000 unless you want to work on it every two weeks don’t Kidd your self the shell will go for ever but not the Trans or motor !!!!!!
Edit if it’s a series 60 14 L the number 6 cylinder will crap out before 350,000 miles if it’s still has all things the way it left Prevost with the EGR all in place
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Hi Larry,
The LEDs will generate a small amount of heat. I have seen some that were installed in a small closed situation fail from hi temp. These were in a small fixture that has no escape for air. LEDs do not generate much heat, but if it cannot escape it will build up. With no lens there should be no worry.
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collecting a WiFi signal and amplifying the same for better reception. The key is the actual WiFi signal which is notoriously bad in most RV parks, campgrounds etc. – The WiFi Ranger can not improve the bandwidth, it can only amplify the poor signal. I think they are a waste of money.
A hotspot standalone device or smartphone is a much better option because it is your own WiFi signal and is not shared with anyone else.
Of course, you pay for the privilege because it uses your data.
I am amazed at how many people do still rely on RV park WiFi and then complain loudly when the park WiFi does not work. Remember, you get what you pay for.
A WiFi Ranger will not change that.