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Atta boy Bernie! I was waiting and you finally got to it. EGO

Jon, I was trying to type ERGO, but autocorrect kept changing it to EGO :o)

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Don’t overthink the design of this boot. It is not intended to be held tight to the steering link, only attached to the body and maintain a slip fit to the shaft passing through .I’ve positioned a large binder clip on mine to minimize the boot gap but still allow the shaft to slip through as steered.

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I had my headlights (low and high beams) changed to LED’s by Marathon in Grand Prairie earlier this year. The replacement lights are from JW Speaker (Model 95). They are great and provide good light while driving. I had upgraded the halogen lights on the Millennium to HID projector lights. They were really good, but I didn’t like the warm up period for the high beams which is why I went with the LED’s for the Marathon. I just upgraded the fog lights to LED’s and they are brighter than the high beams. I also like the LED’s from JW Speaker because they have a dark tint when off that blends much better into the black paint on the front cap of the Marathon. According to Marathon they are plug and play.

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Chuck call me (805) 712-9449

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Now that is a real pucker factor driver… Fred sent me this Swift video and for you guys that overnight in truck stops or rest area’s, this will give you a restless night.

Sharing the Road

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States closing their borders. That is well beyond my thoughts (fears).

Making the trip in your motorhome? If yes, right now I wouldn’t worry. Your self-contained.

Milwaukee radio Station WTMJ-AM has Gregg Marcus on this afternoon. He’s CEO of the Marcus Corp … Marcus Theatre chain, Baymont Hotels, etc. He closed their theatres today. Reading between the lines, occupancy at the hotels is down.

If I had to make the trip like you, knowing what I know right now I’d make the trip in the coach.

We’re in Mesa AZ. Home is near Milwaukee. We were headed to San Diego, Malibu/LA, Pismo Beach/Central Coast, and then home mid-April. For the near term we’re staying put. Nice place. Well located. 1/3 empty (for now) and good separation.

PS: Wish we were closer to Orange Beach AL

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Tom, you may have Doug’s back, but I don’t see your Cab Over White with a refer box as an avatar.

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He’s right I was one of the first ones to brush it off but when you start to realize the rapid spread of this virus it makes you think, also all the shut downs from flights to major events that definitely bring up a red flag, good choice in holding down the fort you can never be to safe, better safe than sorry. Good this is that chloroquine and zinc treatment combo is showing good results in combatting the virus and will more than likely be what is used against it. So start taking zinc as of now as the virus does not like it.

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Thanks Tom

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thx

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I’ve got the other side apart now. Today I removed the drive axle hub inner seal on the driver side that’s not leaking. I assumed(no mx records) its as old as the leaky one that I replaced last week on the passenger side. This was probably a bad assumption. The leaky seal that came out last week was a CR Scotseal brand. The seal I removed today was a National brand. Although both seals fit my bus, they look quite a bit different from each other.

In the pics, the seal on the right is my old leaky CR Scotseal brand that I removed last week. I replaced it with an identical seal that I purchased from Prevost, #621069 or CR Scotseal #48690. The seal on the left is the non-leaky National brand that I removed today. The CR seals on the axle housing a little further inboard than the National. I’ve decided to replace the National seal, #B370195V with a National #370195A. The third seal in the pic is another new CR Scotseal that I planned to install in place of the National seal. I’ll keep it as a spare.

Also while replacing the seals, I removed all my wheels from all the axles and:
1) lubed the chassis
2) changed the gear oil in the steer and tag wet hubs
3) lubed the brakes
4) lubed the slack adjusters and made sure they were operating properly
5) cleaned then painted the hub, seal holder, dust cover, and drums.

6) cleaned the backside and inside of all the wheels and tires

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As someone who has built lithium battery packs and used drop ins as well on boats, motorcycles and rv. It’s not that simple. They want you to believe it is – which is why they are selling them and advertising them that way. If there wasn’t an entire track load of history’s of people destroying lithium battery banks – then you would see why. One of the largest discussions which has gone for 10 years is in the cruisers forum. It’s 673 pages long or even longer. If you have the time you should read it.

but the reality is that lithium is NOT just another battery chemistry. The cells that make it up are different voltages and even different from the majority of other lithium cells. But you just want to throw out everything you know about lead acid as lithium is different. It’s life is reduced if you keep it at full charge. Whereas an agm needs to be at full charge to retain its life. It has windows and charge and discharge cut offs. It is different. You might not have issues getting it to work like your previous agm set. But you could also have lots of problems depending upon how you operate them.

dont get me wrong. I love lithium technology I use it in a lot of places. I’m just saying it’s not worth losing 10k battery bank over one incident.

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Use a 10 lb sledge to bust it loose. I had two changed and both guys used a sledge. Swing it hard. Hit the dome at different angles around it.

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We are interested.

I was thinking about this and trying to find a lower humidity location. We did not get to go to Driggs but tried a southeast location. Beautiful day, except for one cloud which blocked the sun for 3 minutes – during totality.

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Could be the VPOD for the turbo vanes. Do you get any codes? I had one that would do something like what you describe, and after about 400 miles it wouldn’t boost at all. DD shop here put new VPOD on. Lasted one day and it failed as well. They installed another (all reman of course) and it was fine for as long as I owned that coach.

I am pretty sure your vintage would have one. It regulates air pressure going to the control box on the turbo to change vane angles. Easy fix if that is what it is.