[AL]

No. It is unresponsive. I can hear it ‘spit’ a little air from inside the steer compartment but that is all.

[AL]

These
batteries are fairly new and although anything is possible, I’m leary
to blame it on one battery. Those of you with Vantare’s, how is the
inverter/battery setup done? Are the banks split in half, one
inverter handling 4 batteries each? Are they wired in parallel and
all 12v or is there series and 24v also? I would like to understand
the setup. I know everything runs through the 4K inverters.

The
AC power main breaker at the bus tripped a couple times and that is
an indication the current draw (amps) exceeded the breaker rating.
Once the breaker trips, the inverters are going to go full tilt to
keep all the AC draws going then when the breaker is reset the
chargers are going to go to bulk charge. The breaker trips again and
the cycle starts all over with the batteries not being brought up to
float the first time and now the inverters are back supplying power
with less than full batteries. Again, the breaker gets reset and the
bulk charging starts all over again at really high amps.

This
process will for sure heat up the batteries, but usually they all get
warm and not just single out one in the bank. Is the battery first
in line when charging, are the cables tight and clean, are all cables
downstream clean and tight, etc, etc.

Suggest you unhook the hot battery, assuming it’s in paralell and take it out of the loop and then see if you have the same problem with the next one.

PS – Granvil has bus bars, so that makes the whole process easier to isolate the hot battery.

[AL]

Just faxed the application to Alicia.

[AL]

I think I got mine at Camping World. You have to have the special adapter that comes with the exhaust kit welded onto your exhaust pipe. After that, you can go to Autozone and buy a chrome extension to put over the adapter so that it looks nicer and is shinny. Goes on and off with a couple of screws.

[AL]

Awesome, Tom’s providing free oil changes at his house!

Thanks Tom

[AL]

A quick check to determine if AC has been restored is to check the status of your house battery charger(s).

After a power interruption, it’s easy to be fooled into thinking it has been restored if everything is operating off of the inverters.

Of course, your battery chargers won’t be, so a quick glance at their status will confirm whether AC power has been restored…….or not.

[AL]

The single biggest advantage to the Aqua Hot over just the Webasto is that you no longer have or need hot water heaters. Another advantage, in my opinion, is the closed coolant system that does not tie into the engine’s system. Even the Webasto system has circulator pumps, mine and yours has 3 pumps. The engine coolant can be ran through the Aqua Hot, if you get the right model, for pre heating the engine. Personally, if the engine needs to be preheated I need to head south. Aqua Hot systems do need service, most of which as Webasto focused. A leading cause of Aqua Hot failure is improper winterization that damages the heat exchanger; often beyond ecomical repair. Another Aqua Hot plus is that the noise is lower than a Webasto given the Webasto in the Aqua Hot is enclosed.

If zi had a chose, I’d go with the Aqua Hot without engine preheat feature.

[AL]

Jon

See that is why I started with the manual awning first,!!! then learn the important systems. My first RV of any kind and echo Jon’s comments on steep learning curve. It can be somewhat overwhelming.

I

[AL]

Hey Hish there is a girl here at tgo who works over at the tgo office and advertizes that she restrings shades. If you can wait till you get back she may be able to help you out. Hope the trip is going well. Hurry back before the heat is all gone LOL. Her number is 321-704-3112 ask for Wendy.

[AL]

I picked up my coach today with its new manual awning and “thingamajig” tool… I am a happy camper and may have the only Liberty XL II with a manual awning , so i am told. Had to patch exterior panels and paint match but came out great! One less air issue to worry about…

[AL]

Hello Prevost Community,

I figured I would write and introduce myself my name is Alicia and I am the Prevost Community Fuel Discount Program Administrator for the Fuel Discount Program.

The question has come up about security and as Jon stated security and discretion are kept in the highest regard and taken seriously here at Profit Tools.

We have been in business since 1995 and a leader in the Software for trucking industry. You can visit our website at http://www.profittools.net. As you can see we develop Software for the trucking industry which has to be very secure and accurate.

Please know that your identites and banking information are kept completely private and is locked up here; only the people necessary to see the information will. The fuel cards are set up to be very secure, if no one has your pin or vin, they cannot use the card.

I hope this helps ease some of the questions regarding this, if you would like more information and would feel more comfortable asking me directly through email or calling me please feel free to do so.

My email address is aallen@profittools.net and my direct number is 603-659-3822 x4327.

We are so excited to be a benefit to the Prevost Community Members and are looking forward to working with all of you.

Thank You

Alicia Allen

Prevost Community Fuel Program Administrator

[AL]

I’ll be there for at least the first 3 days……really looking forward to it.

[AL]

I can’t tell from your picture, but your hissing from the compressor MAY be the same problem I had. In my case the aux compressor has a pressure regulator as the last item before going into the Prevost system. If the regulator is set for less than the Prevost system air will back feed through that regulator until the pressure drops to the regulator’s pressure. The fix is to put a check valve as the last thing leaving the aux compressor. This would also provide added degree of protection for any failure of the aux regulator or tank. There’s probably already a check valve between the compressor and the tank and it should remain there. It’s just not the only one you should have.

Your configuration may differ, so check first.

[AL]

No, I guess I didn’t buy the temperatuire compensated model. I guess that means living on the edge 😉

I did note that the tubing I used was rated for 150 degrees F and the regulator for 125. That left me wondering just how hot we can expect the generator compartment to become. It’s probably not good in this case. I’ll have to put a remote temperature probe in there and wait until I get back to Phoenix. The compartment is force cooled with ambient air, so it’s anybody’s guess.

The 20 lbs bag pressure was a typo. I rechecked and mine says 25.

That filter regulator uknder the driver’s seat. It just looks like a filter to me. That would be the one with the yellow tube running down, just to the right of the tank?

My compressor is mounted on flat, reinforced rubber which looks like conveyor belt material. It’s solid.

Right now I’m sure I have a bunch of leaks in various spots. I’ve listened to my compressor when it shuts off and I can hear air coming back from the line, for a moment, and then it stops. Sounds like a slow check valve.

Another concern is my Prevost Aux system. It’s draining down to zero when we park. I’m not sure exactly what this system serves, other than the fan belts.

In my cursory examination of the Marathon stuff, it’s a pneumatic nightmare. Air is everywhere onthis coach and there are regulators squirreled away in numerous places, behind panels, etc.. My coach has a few “extra” pneumatic items such as a pop-up TV in the salon, and an air operated Joey bed, plus 4 air operated interior doors. Going over it all seems nearly hopeless, given that I can barely hear hissing sounds to begin with 🙂

By the way, I did find a way to hear high pitched hissing sounds. I got a “stethescope” app for my phone and so with a pair of ear buds, I can use the phone’s built-in microphone to find all sorts of faint sounds!

[AL]

Steps I did in the past 3 hours:

1) Put gauge on compressor low side, gauge read 0 psi, burped the valve on the gauge and there was pressure, perhaps not enough to move the gauge needle.

2) From a 30 pound bottle, charged the low side compressor fill port.

3) After one pound of 134a in, compressor clutch started working, after about five pounds of 134a in, condenser blower and evaporator blower began running.

4) After about 7 pounds of 134a in, and a gauge pressure of 30 psi on the low side of the compressor, it seemed to stop taking in the 134a. And the red ball inside the lower sight glass on the receiver barely got of the bottom.

During this filling procedure, engine was on fast idle, over the road switched to ac, selected max cold at the dash, and turned up the drivers fan.
I let it run for about 2 hours, but it didn’t seem to be taking the 134a in late in the session.

Do I need to let it run longer? Since I had good flow and then not, I believe the valves, hoses, and gauge are ok (everything is new but China does not guarantee this stuff). The source tank was new/full, and I could sense its weight.