terry
Forum Replies Created
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the pump would not matter as far as i know. on my xlv i put my r/o in the water bay and the tank above the inverters on that shelf. didn’t want to lose the space under the sink. your coach maybe different locating equipment. good luck.
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we use city supply when we have it. keep our tank fresh. and r/o for drinking supply.
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mine has done the same thing. not very often. in the past someone posted about this I think it talked about a controller that controls the heat to cooling. in the archives. maybe one of the gurus can shine on it.
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good morning. I have the same system. I have fought it for seven years on and off. I found that good brass barbed couplers and good check valves to be important. to keep it working. mine now works really good but when the outside temps rise my black tank is on and off. when Brian Gabel and I reflashed my system he said my water board was reading a little odd but said as long as it was working no big deal. also I blow low air pressure into tank sensors that cleans the sensor and has helped. good luck. system maybe a relative to our air leak issues. HA HA.
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we only use open roads and cash.
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these are the tires removed from front
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Well, it ends up being a little of inside and a little outside. Not straightforward by any means. Gotta get it far enough into the existing slot so window closes all the way and can be latched.
Another nice part about switching to electric is that the windows stay open rather than gradually closing as air leaks out. I was in engineering school (long time ago) when pneumatics became all the rage. Ranked right up there with the second coming but haven’t stood the test of time and electric actuators have advanced big time. With the oldies but goodies buses like we have lot of stuff needs to be switched out. I have the same bed lift problem. For now have added stronger assist gas struts and took the mac valve out of that system so I can keep air pressure up until it opens and then after shutting off air when it opens, use a prop to keep it open. Hillbilly engineering! Let me know how electric actuator works out. I don’t have a boat. Bus provides all the challenges I need at my advanced age.
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#1 was bought in 1990.
#2 was bought in 2004
#3 was bought in 2012
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Jessica has understated the difficulty of making or revamping a web site. Joe Holt, our web guru often had to use brute force and his imagination to cope with the web site needs. In our initial version of the web site Tom and I quickly learned things we should have done, and of changes we needed. For our entire time of ownership Joe played a vital role in making the web site work despite the multiple challenges due to everything from changes in technology to making it work on devices other than a computer, such as cell phones.
The web site is vital for Prevost owners because it appears to be the only one with a forum that has remarkably good solid advice and no matter the issue or concern members can always seem to find other owners who have successfully dealt with a problem and who can provide reliable information.
And except for certain needed limitations, such as no porn or politics it is uncensored so reviews of suppliers and vendors will be reliable.
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I thought I would update how I finished assembling the front wheel assembly.
Removed the abs ring with air chisel- flat blade gently pushing ring at end opposite teeth, going around evenly- easy
The skf seal sat .12 to 125 above the hub when fully seated
Placed the new rotor on the spindle
put the hub with new seal and abs ring installed onto the spindle but not fully seated. Installed 8 of the 10 bolts from the hub to rotor -light impact torque.
used transmission jack with bords of different thickness to get assembly somewhat in line with spindle. slid transmission jack towards the spindle adjusting jack height so that the bearing race just quit dragind on the spindle.
very difficult to not getting it crooked. it would stick and I had to pull it back off with homemade tool- nut welded over hole in angle iron, two holes in line with the rotor bolts,attach angle to face of hub and use the bolt to push on the center of the spindle to try again. once it looked aligned and partialy on, i pulled rotor outward and gave it a huge push inward and it slid partially on enough where the out bearing could be placed nad then hit assembly with deadblow hammer. Then took the odd shaped nut, no washer yet and removed bolt from this nut and put not on spindle. used my 3d printed nut tool to tighten the nut, pushing the hub and seating the oil seal. took the nut off, put locking bolt and nut into special nut tightened and adjusted until I could feel small amount of play by lifting hub from the bottom. Tightened bolt. I did prefill the hub before putting outer bearing in final time.
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Bill, that is a nice area, my in laws live in Morro Bay we spend a lot of time up in that area.
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make sure the evaporator and its filter are clean. Make sure the condenser is clean.
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Good morning, the evaporator blower is controlled by the cruisair brain it is located behind the front bumper on the roof. You can identify colored tape on the wiring.
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I believe that you are referring to the “stabilzators.”
We have them; but they are rare.
I don’t have any advice; but would appreciate any that you could share.
ours us disabled – but iwe would like to get it working again.
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i use dvm at the generator control box check output. have replaced my voltage regulator twice. if you show good voltage at genset and readings are off I also had that issue happen so on my coach back at the battery bank are the transducers and some small sensor wires had to un plug clean and reconnect and that solved the readings being off. hope this info helps you.