Susan
Forum Replies Created
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I like you, new to the rv / toad business and reviewed a number of recommendations before buying. Ultimately selected a 10,000 # Aventa 7445 / Blue Ox and have it set up to tow both a Grand Cherokee and 2 door Wrangler. Went with Air Force One brake set up on the cherokee and H & G on the older Wranger. Both have worked great thus far…
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Hector, where did you purchase those two check valves?
Susan
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My AUX air leaks down about 10 lbs a week now
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Great Job Al.
In Texas, we would call that leak free. Another example of how dedicated effort pays off. Leak back through the aux air compressor is often a problem. I installed two check valves on the discharge line about four feet from the compressor to allow for the air to cool. The best way to keep the aux air compressor discharge air cool is to avoid having your aux compressor run all the time.
Welcome to the leak free club (an exclusive “busted knuckles” membership club).
My experience has been, once the coach is leak free, it will last for years. My last leak finding adventure was two years ago.
Hector
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Equal or balancing media costs about $10 per tire. No balancing is required, just throw a bag in the tire when it is being mounted. It comes with valve cores with special filters so the Schrader valves will seat and not lose air.
The alternative is Centramatics or Balance Masters which are just discs with sand or Mercury contained in a bead around the periphery. The concept is the same as balance media except you don’t have to replace them every time you change tires or get them serviced. I tend to prefer balance media because it is much less expensive given the number of times we change tires, although my coach came with Centramatics. They do work well.
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We’ll see you there Gary. Haven’t made reservations yet, but planning to.
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Many thanks, Al, about not using tape. I am making a list of things to get on my next trip to Grainger and NAPA.
Susan
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I didn’t see one of these. Maybe I just missed it…anyway, thanks for recommending that I let the air out first…I will make sure I install a release valve this time.
The reach into the fittings was awkward because the bumper extends out in front of the storage area, making it hard to reach things inside…especially for the likes of me, 5′ tall. My dad used to call me the mighty mite. I get a lot of, “You drive that bus?”
Susan
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Jon, here’s what happened when I removed the hose from the compressor and tank.
I turned off the Air Compressor switches inside, in the switch box (Bass panel) and on the dashboard. When I removed the hoses from the compressor, no air shot out. But when I removed the other end from the tank, I “got surprised.” (nice way to putting it, Jon) I didn’t get dust in my eyes but I did get a bump above my eye when the check valve broke. I was pulling hard in an awkward position and when it released, I bumped against the front of the bus, complete with sound effects from the sudden release of air. It was actually very funny.
Regarding the bus, it did *seem* to go down to me but that might just have been my catastrophic expectation. When I looked at the Level Low bubble, it looked the same as before. As it still does today, two days later. I might be tempted to assume that this means that the leveling system is not leaking but I know it’s just because we are having hot weather. 🙁
The mud flaps are well off the ground. The sewer hose is fine, the same or almost the same height as before. (It comes out of the bottom of the coach and I use an adaptor, leaving precious little room.)
Should I draw the conclusion that the leveling system of my coach does have that ’90-something upgrade, where it doesn’t rely on the aux compressor constantly, Jon?
Or, put another way, what does it mean that the bus does not seem to have lowered itself down to the “bumps”?
Susan
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< But you know how the heat impacted the life of the original hose. >
Yes, now that you’ve said that, I know. 🙂 I had been trying to figure out why the end near the compressor was so cracked and the end near the tank not at all. Had only thought as far as the check valve. 🙂
I’ve noticed, too, that the rubber belts that hold the windshield wiper fluid container (that’s what that large plastic container in the background of one of my pictures is, right?)…those little belts are also cracked. They are probably the original ones from 18 years ago though.
I should probably reassure you that my cluelessness re rubber belts does not extend to the ones on the engine. I watch them and have had them replaced and carry spare new ones.
Susan
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It is clear Al has become the Marathon leak repair guru. I do question how much air pressure our aux systems require. When we are driving the aux system is getting the same pressure as our brake systems somewhere around 120 to 125.
But when we are parked, those of us that need to maintain aux system air pressure, such as for pocket doors or a toilet or generator air bags or any other converter installed device, it is probable we all can get along quite well on a maximum of 60 to 80 PSI and a cut in pressure of 40 to 60 PSI.
The compressor will run less, it will not get as hot as with higher pressures, and if you do have leaks you haven’t yet repaired the leak rate will likely be reduced. Unless you need to level the coach without runnning the engine there is probably no harm in lowering the pressure switch pressures.
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Roger,
Buy me lunch, pay for my fuel, sell me a couple of your cars below cost, and weed my garden and maybe we can work something out.
I read or heard a long time ago the motor had to be removed to access the lower rear brushes. So being curious I started poking around on my 87 or 97. I don’t remember which, but whatever one it was I was able to get at and remove the brush and replace it. I assume you are talking about condenser and evaporator motor brushes?
I have fans in the floor now and they look like they are brushless otherwise I would verify what my memory is telling me.
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Great chart! Anyone looking for a power protection device should take a look.
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I appologize if my postings implied there was a fault with the Trace inverters themselves. I feel quite the opposite. I have an SW 4024 that has been used and abused for 10 years. it tolerated the unstable power grid in the Bahamas for 5 years often seeing 130-140 volts then down to 80-90 volts. The frequency of power in the Bahamas goes up and down between 58 and 62 hertz. all the time. Throw in high humidity and salt air, it has had a tough life.
It now lives in the mountains of NC, has been hit with lightning twice and is still going strong and giving great service.
My concern is not with the inverters themselves, but how they interact on my coach. The way they function for me creates a situation where it is very easy to exceed a 50 amp load on one leg thus tripping the pedestal breaker. A slight alteration the charging settings has reduced that concern and I now feel I can leave the coach for a day and not worry.
I agree with Jon, the issue could be corrected by two battery banks but as he points out, that is not needed.
I also agree with Ben, they are great units. As to the “big picture” comment, mine was why am I tripping pedestal breakers?
Again, sorry if anyone took my posts as an inverter bashing. Just trying to pass on information as I learn.
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Thanks Gil… I already called them and don’t have them in stock until end of August.
Diane -
I usually tell our customers to try 45amps for Shore Cord Size on each inverter and if they experience any nuissance tripping, set them down to 40amps on each and see how that goes.
I have had some people have to “dial down” the setting all the way to 30amps per inverter to prevent tripping.The big problem with campground shore power breakers is that the pole with the breakers is sitting outside, subject to heat up in the hot sun, then cool down at night and during cooler seasons. The heat up and cool down tends to cause loose connections to the breaker, the plug, and the high ambient heat and direct sunlight during the day “derates” the breaker further. Also, being out in the “elements” year-round, corrosion of terminals further contributes to bad connections. Plus, the more times that “house-hold style” breaker trips, the less amps it is “good for” in the future. I see this problem in campgrounds that are only a few years old, as well as those that have been there for years. The ones that have been around and had large motorhomes as clients for a while tend to understand and keep up with maintenance, keeping things tight on a regular basis, but most don’t understand the need to do this, hence the problems listed above…
Ben Cummings
Parliament Motor Coach
888-571-5755, ext 230
813-830-8619 (Cell)
ben@parliamentcoach.com