Ron
Forum Replies Created
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Took it easy this weekend. Wire wheeled the rear subframe. Once its warm I will etch the metal apply Por15.
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Finished my conversion from four 8D AGMs to a single LiFeP04. Had to upgrade from 2/0 to 4/0 cables to reduce voltage drop given higher current. They don’t make an Alternator-to-Battery controller for lithium ion yet so only charging from AC for now.
Before and after pics below:
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They are fairly simple, at least mine are. One could easily fabricate one or a few of them. Aluminum rod is readily avail.
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The other thing I forgot to mention, and something I believe Jerry’s comments might be relevant to, Is having 2 banks of 12v, which each bank might have 12v loads, and the two banks in series provide 24v to the inverter, but also battery balancing device to ensure both 12v banks are equally charged (as the house loads will draw unequally from two banks). This I believe would not be a good idea for LiFePO4, or at least I would not be comfortable with a setup like that unless I knew the balancing device was up to the task.
If I were to go 24v LiFePO4, I would assume I would need to include a 24v-to12v power supply to feed all of the house 12v loads. Not sure how many amps required, maybe 100 or so? Victron has these power supplies and can be paralleled.
I’d be really curious if anyone has drawn up a detailed schematic of what they did when doing a conversion.
And to throw another wrench into this, why not 48v system? I think the biggest detractor here would be alternator charging. 48v alternators are super expensive from what I have found (~$3k). Perhaps keeping a small 24v lead acid bank for the alternator and adding a 24v-to-48v charger fixes this, but then you have more things that can break. Or maybe just use existing chassis 24v, have both alternators charge that, and add the 24->48v charger to charge house.
48v is kind of interesting to me because there are a couple true 48v mini-split heat pumps out there, and if you could make those work, you could heat/cool without any inverter requirement.
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Don: “I’m monitoring the battery area temperature.”
What are you using to monitor that temperature? What devices or systems or remote readouts? TIA!
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First, as of this morning there are 5139 of us which makes the process of elimination a bigger problem, but not as big as these senior moments.
I have trouble using my garage door opener, hence my reluctance to get something more complicated like a smart phone,
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The belt tensioners are all part of the same system and the set point is for all bellows set at the regulator.
There is a schrader valve at the regulator/valve to check system pressure.
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Have they tried another keypad? I see a list of things that have “happened” over the past 10 days. Work done over ten days or has the problem been getting worse, or did it just quit all at once?
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No! My 1988 still had 2 of the originals and the 3rd was a rebuilt unit. You are many years newer and you should be able to rebuild any unit you have.
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ck 24 volt feed in and out to ign switch. FWIW going to think this thru. Don’t understand 1/2 voltage supply drop. wire color are red=24V Yellow=12V.. Black=ground on your DC system (stock prevost)
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Mine too.
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You mean lights like this? Commonly referred to as the GM pickup bed cab light?
Can’t remember where I found these LEDs with the wire loop. I couldn’t get the LEDs with a cone on each end to work.
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Okay, I’ll try to do better.
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Hey Ralf! I just turned 40 in March so you got me beat there.
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Ron, it’s 31
1989 Executive Coach Corp.
Todd