Robert
Forum Replies Created
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My bet is on fiberglass.
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Dick,
Do you have a compartment heater breaker? Ours is on inverter line 2.
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I am in this boat right now. I need to add some POE oil and I came across a thread with the Carrier manual for the compressor. If you look on the left side of the compressor (as viewed facing the front of the bus, so on the port side), there is an angled boss with a plug in it that you can fill the oil from. It did not explain whether you can do this with the system charged though. It appears to be on the bottom side of the pistons, so it would make sense that you could close the service valves to the compressor (for a little added protection from loosing refrigerant) and add it there. Also, it said that POE oil is extremely hygroscopic and to prevent it from coming into contact with air as much as possible. Has anyone added it through the oil fill hole with the system charged?
See item #6 on page 1-2
https://carrierscrewcompressors.com/product-files/05G-models.pdf
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Please post your coach search info and signature preferably with location.
That way people can give more relevant suggestions to your questions in the future.
This forum has a vast amount of information from other owners who have had or own a coach similar to your search.
The converters and year of chassis vary in the content that someone can give your question a response that is applicable.
There is a lot of basic ideas on what to look for before starting out.
Me I make sure the shore cord is unplugged and stowed. all compartment doors closed.
Engine oil,antifreeze, and battery water level if you have flood type batteries. Check air filter and fuel filter date
Generator oil level and antifreeze plus date of air filter & fuel filter change, check start battery water level.
Tire inflation is most important for safe travel.
Do a DOT brake check. Search the forum and you will find it explained in detail.
Definitely check light operation to insure tail, signal & brake are working properly.
If you want to avoid surprises try your air conditioning and heating system depending on time of year and destination.
A good thing to do is turn on refrigerator a day ahead to insure it is cooling properly.
Link to brake check video.
munity.com/forum/threaddetails.asp?Category=Videos+of+Interest&ThreadID=4393
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Mark, he’s going to be there though…he rented one of the cottages they have.
That’s an option for some if they no longer have a home on wheels and want to attend.
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This is the main reason we are selling our condo in central Orlando and building a house in the suburbs. It is a quality of life issue, not having to schlep stuff back and forth between condo and RV storage facility.
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Go to rvglassexperts.com
They manufacture many RV windshields and dual pane side windows at there factory in Oregon. Side glass is only installed at 4 locations: fafactory, Dallas area, Indiana, and Lakeland FL
I had the trapazoid side window replaced for under $1000. Call them, ask for the side glass specialist, and provide them the Prevost part #. TheyThey will quote an installed price for you.
They did a great job on my window.
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This is not a flea market topic, but since pre-purchase inspections are very important I have no objection to letting this thread remain, but from my perspective this thread should be closed unless much more information is provided.
I am probably OK without suggesting an ad be taken out as long as the information provided is comprehensive and our members are not responding to some scam.
Please provide some listing of experience to support the claim of expertise. Did you work for Prevost, a converter, or a bus conversion repair shop? That is information you should be proud to share.
You indicate you are willing to travel. Where is your home base so potential buyers can at least get a clue about some travel times or cost. What are your typical charges.
Electrical systems are mentioned. Chassis? Conversion, Proprietary systems like a converter’s code which they refuse to share?
What about an undercarriage inspection? Putting the gauges on A/C systems, How about a detailed review of the service history and suggestions and conclusions about needed things like filters, fluid changes, air bags, brakes (linings, pads and chambers), a review of historical codes for the engine and transmission, etc. A detailed list of minimum inspection tasks, along with additional suggested inspections would be helpful.
Are you insured so if a vital inspection is wrong or missed and the new owner suffers physical or financial injury he is covered?
Do you own a converted bus and if so what brand and who was the converter?
I am sure you will be happy to share this information because if you possess the needed skills, tools and expertise all potential buyers could use your service. I would suggest you post your email and web site. Not all members are aware of how to get yours.
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Roger, I still patronize gas stations that give dishes and S&H stamps.
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Using TruckSmart (TA’s app) you can skip swiping your card but still need to do the multi questions i.e. Tractor, DEF, Cash Advance, etc.
Open the App, select Pump Smart & follow the prompts. 1st use requires a trip inside for some reason.
FWIW I did send them a comment saying please remember my choices as I’ll never need DEF, Reefer (fuel or otherwise) or cash back
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Robert, I try for once a year, usually doing it near the end of August before we resume our travels. I tape the date when performed inside the door to the plumbing and water pump. At the same time I replace the house water filters with charcoal filters.
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All that space that Bill applies to the room needed for OTR is 1/4 bay on each side of the bus for the condenser and evaporator. The remaining bay space is taken up with the fuel tank, sandwiched between the OTR components.
If having another 1/2 of a bay is why folks buy a not OTR coach I cannot imagine how much stuff is carried in the bus.
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If a seller is not willing to assist in getting an independent inspection walk away. No, better yet, run away.
An owner who is selling a well maintained coach with good detailed records to show its maintenance history want a buyer to inspect the coach because he is likely proud of it.
The best deals I often made were those i walked away from.
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Yes, thank you, the connection looks just like that. And, I understand the ‘4th’ prong is around the edge.
I just thought I could have a 50 amp connection on that side and was hoping for an adaptor vs. buying a new cord that would change the 30 amp wall connection to a 50 amp. No big deal tho.
Mark
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Since water leaks can enter and travel long distances before appearing the best and possibly only way to find the leaks is to pressurize the coach interior. If the coach has OTR, open the fresh air baffle at the evaporator coil, or if no OTR rig some means of using a high volume fan blowing air through a window or opening like the toll window.
Then with the chassis pressurized start spraying soapy water near where the leak might be and look for bubbles.
With this procedure there is no guesswork and sometimes leaks that do hidden damage are found also.