Robert
Forum Replies Created
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Tom there is a shop by me called AAA Battery they rebuild anything family of good ol boys thier phone # 386 985 4616 In DeLeon Springs Travis is the sons name Art is the dad give them a call, I’ll help any way i can we are about 200 miles apart but shiping aint no big deal ,,, I reasently got one from the international dealer in Daytona Beach for $2290 they have specials in folders on thier counters all the time. Im sure he can do it a a few hours or trade you one out let me know exactly what you need and ill run by there 386 804 5619 my cell I took a pic of your alt lable ill go by there mon am if not sunday and see what he says
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Hey, no problem. Thanks.
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Tom the SMX is the only controls I have for heat and AC, except for the water bay.
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Got home and went into the auxiliary air compressor box. Soapy water found the leak. It was at a coupling where the copper tubing coming from the air compressor changes to a plastic tube. The plastic tube side of the coupling is the leaker.
Also disconnected the floor push rod to discover that the floor slide itself and not the rod is the resistance. Boeshields T-9 fixed it.
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Jim,
By the time we see you in Branson, you’ll have some miles under your belt and you may be teaching us a thing or two!
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Great Japanese Steak House less than a half mile away…….We never got in our car again once we arrived…it was bikes everywhere.
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I just checked the fitting under the alternator, and the pipe fitting going into the alternator is loose. So I would have to break loose the hose from the fitting to tighten the fitting. Since I’m at a race in Bristol, I think I’ll wrap a rag around it until I get home.
And since its not a pressure line.
thanks guys
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Rick,
This is hard to diagnose from afar but if you have a listing of the 24 volt circuits in the Liberty manual try to find the circuit number and if you can the A-B relay number. If I had to guess it will not be the fuse or circuit breaker, but it is likely to be one of the small green rectangular relays under the PLCs.
When I sold my 97 coach my books which had the info went with it so I cannot help you there.
If you don’t have a list of the circuit or relay numbers try this:
Look at the back wall in the electric compartment and you will see some red lights indicating which circuits are powered up. If you are questioning which lights just turn a switch on and off while looking and you will see the light alternate between on and off. Denise may have to operate the switch for something that is 24VDC powered such as any working light circuit.
Once you understand about the red lights you will see they correspond to one of the green relays that pull out and push in.
Have Denise operate the lights that do not work by turning the switch on and off continuously. Swap that relay with any other one to verify the problem is the relay or something else. Make sure all the circuit breakers and fuses are good before you do that however.
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Bryan,
In my experience with my 97 Liberty, I learned long ago that using all 4 cruiseair’s off of shore power was a near impossibility. I’m not saying that it can’t be done, but in my coach, it never works.
Sitting in a park with all 4 cruiseair’s running, plus whatever else is on in the coach, the load will be 40A or so per 110 volt leg. Usually, the total load in my coach will be around 43 amps per leg.
You mentioned that the park pedestal went first. That was caused by using all 4 cruiseairs at once, plus whatever else you were running. The load doesn’t even have to approach 50A to blow the breakers.
A 50A pedestal with the typical household breaker is rated for 80% continuous duty, or, 40 Amps.
All shore breakers generate heat. I’ve seen many of them get too hot to touch with as few as 35 amps running through them. Since heat is what trips a breaker internally, a warm breaker is a sure sign of a problem.
Some breakers get warm because they have loose connections behind the panel, or the breaker is just bad. This is all to common. I’ve had to request a different spot at a campground when the breakers in the pedestal they gave me wouldn’t stay closed, and that was with two (2) cruise airs running.
To combat the problem when the situation gets really bad, i.e. hot weather and AC being a necessity, I’ve placed a small, electric fan under the breaker box, set to blow directly over the breakers. This has worked to keep them cool, and in turn, keep my coach somewhat cool (on 2, maybe 3 cruiseairs).
4 CA’s at once? Only possible when the generator is running, at least in my coach.
As for your 300A fuse blow when you switched the (hot) breakers back on, I tend to agree with others that it was probably the instantaneous surge when the power was restored. Good staggering on the SMX controllers is a must! Better yet, if your A/C units were running hard when the breaker tripped, switch them off inside the coach before you re-power, and then manually bring them back on, one at a time.
-fred
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just signed up.
what is the head count so far?
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I’ve been told that is the new S60 engine PC is giving away at the Branson rally for a grand prize😳😳😳😳
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Using home office version in coach. We use in a remote location with poor cell service. It boost to very good service booth mifi and cell (verizon) Using the egg shapped inside antenna Front inside(sends to cell and mifi) and small antenna on rear.(recieves). 4yrs no problem. FWIW. they must be seperated or they will repeat to each other!. You would be surprised people walking by that suddenly get cell signal in front of bus. Bob
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I suspect one has to reflect on what kind of dyno testing is done. I was at Sturgis a few years back and guys were all farting up their starley’s on the dyno to determine power at the real wheel. Frankly is was bloody, rather should I say oily, articulating rods vacated through cases. California does dyno testing as well for smog, however they simply set the vehicle at various speeds rather than tighten the dyno till she stops or blow’s……….
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Ken,
I have often posted to new members we will always answer their questions and on rare occasions we can actually get the answer correct.
Anybody, anytime can joke with us. Anybody, anytime can complain to us also. As long as we are communicating we all benefit.
I hope however everyone keeps in mind this is an open site. You do not need to be a member to read anything on this site. So what might be an acceptable remark on a private members only site may not pass muster on a public site such as this. Unless the post is seriously crude or off base we are going to leave it stand so if you don’t want the world (or your better half) to read something you might regret saying keep that in mind.
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Jeff
Bob is absolutely correct. Just one other things to add, when calling Byler, ask for “old style Prevost rivets”. Last time I bought some they were much less that $3 each. While talking to them, buy a drill bit or two (depending on number of rivets you need to put in) from them that is correctly sized. They have super sharp drill bits that can be resharpened and have all the incremental sizes you need to make the rivet work correctly.
BTW, what year are you working on? Where is the country do you live? Bob is in Evansille, IN and I live in Springfield, MO. Bob is building a 98 XL45 and I am building a 91 XL40. There is a special category on the site called, “Builders” for us that are building our own coaches.
Rob
Missouri