Mike, 92 Country Coach
Forum Replies Created
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As always……thanks for the valuable input on the power distribution/management on a Marathon. On those hot days, do you advise running the generator to supplement the load requirements in addition to the pole?
Mike & Debra
2004 Marathon H3-45
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Thanks for the info Bill, from someone who is around their bus more than most of us. I have one of those telescoping ladders still unopened behind the front bumper too.I am leaning towards leaving it off, these busses look more streamline without things hanging off of them IMO.
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Those telescoping ladders are the best to keep in a bay. I just throw a towel on the top, lift up and climb right on the roof. When done fold it in and it stands up in a slot in my bay. I plan on strapping it to the roof of a bay.
Little giants are great and I’ll use mine sometimes when home but our roof is sloped so much its harder to get on the roof than the telescoping unless you flip the little giant flat, but then its so much heavier.
I do wish I put some handle or something up there to grab onto just for safety. I did just pickup some commercial grade suction cups for moving glass I plan on using for flags at events on the windows so maybe will leave one up there.
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You guys without a ladder on the back, how’s it going? Do you wish you had one? I am going to be removing mine to do my paint work, wondering if i should put it back on.
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Victron inverters are a lot better than Magnum and similarly priced. I’d suggest taking a look at currentconnected.com at their options
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Can you explain the “air dump” plz.
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Mike:
I agree with you that the bus looks better with the Zip-Dees removed, BUT you loose the ability to shade the windows from sun and my windows are sliding style not awning style so I needed the Zip-Dee to keep light rain out when the windows are open.
definitely a trade-off.
Chuck
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Awnings are removed! Woot Woot!
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Added 3 Dometic Peguin II roof airs to our 2001 Marathon XLII a couple years ago. Did this myself and still have the Cruisairs and keep them running myself at my leisure but agree with Bill that it is hard to beat the cold from the roof units. Didn’t go as far as Josh talks about and have only down flow from each unit and like Bill says we just reach up to manage the controls. I live by KISS. Reinforcement of roof a must as is advanced planning for placement, wiring, drainage. Tapped drip lines into existing Cruisair evaporator drip lines so don’t have condensate running on the roof. Painted interior air box to match ceiling. Only extends down 2 inches. Looks nice. Does the job. Very cost effective compared to the Cruisair or anything similar. Won’t say it is a chip shot but quite doable with essentially the only cost the units themselves. When they fail, old unit will come down and new unit will go up.
My engineering training tells me that an enclosed condenser unit will always be a problem. Various solutions being tried but lots of glorious abundant air flow on the roof. One reason your home condenser unit is outside and not in your basement.
My 2 cents. Worth what is costs. Mike
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I don’t know how a Royal is wired but just some basic bus knowledge tells me how do you know the generator was running the front ac?
Most converters power the front ac thru the inverter so you could of had the motor keeping your batteries up enough to the front unit and when you shut the bus down it quit in 20 minutes which makes sense.
What kind of voltage do you get on shore power coming into the bus and when on Gen what does it do at the transfer switch.
My point is you say Gen does not miss a beat but is it charging? Also what kind of inverters do you have?
Before you start taking out the control box a couple simple tests should tell you alot. Do you know what ac units are on inverters?
Converters have always had Gen power over ride shore power.
I just saw you changed your post? I tried to answer your first writings.
Later
bv
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Not aware of the arrivecan being avail for land travel…since we are not crossing the border that often did not look into it.
Just normal border process…
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Windtrader, don’t assume i know or don’t know anything without asking me first.
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Similar issue with my OTR. Turned out to be the dash control unit. Nightmare – although the new unit looks and fits the same the electrons are different and Prevost Winter Garden had to add some kind of an adaptor to make it work. Just short of $3,000
Chuck
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Well. I am a California resident and post this information as it seems like something to be aware of and watch how this new CARB program rolls out this year and next.
Mike seems to feel this is all a joke or something but I know from all my years in the state is CARB is no agency to dismiss, particularly when it comes to getting 2 strokes off the roads here. Not sure if he was asleep when the last massive CARB sweep was done but it was an extremely costly and disruptive series of regulations that got many old semis off the road.
As to opacity, check yourself on youtube. Look for certification videos where they conduct visual opacity tests.
As to 3% opacity, that level is quite low. A CARB presentation talked about DPF retrofits on engines and if working the level would be around 1-2%. The threshold is 5% and her comment was anything running at 3% or greater had some leak or other malfunction in the DPF.
As to tweaking engine to easier meet threshold, since the test is a snap or accelerator test, someone said to adjust the throttle to not rev as high. Lower it to pass but put back to get it downt the road again.
My bus will be back in commercial truck alley (i5/i80) in a week, and I will post my opacity test results here.
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If by year of manufacture like 1992, is allowing 40% opacity in a California test on a 2 stroke, theres no need to leave CALIF. Do you know how dense 40% opacity really is. Very thick