Liam
Forum Replies Created
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The best advice I can offer is to stay on truck routes, or at least get a truckers atlas and review clearances and weight limits prior to heading down a particular route.
I also know for a fact if the sign says no commercial vehicles it is code for low clearances or weight limits.
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Congrads on hitting the 1800 members. I can remember as if it was yesterday hearing 100. Pretty exciting hitting the 1000 mark. So what happens at 2000 ?
What a great group of people enjoying this hobby.
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Jon brings up some good concerns. Let me share how I dealt with them.
the 20 gallon HW tank is going to take a lot of anti-freeze unless some specific plan to deal with dilution is employed.
The Lilberty instructed to start out draining the water heater and set the valves to by-pass it. I first pulled the plug on the water heater so it couldn’t be accidently turned on and burn out the elements. Then I drained the water heater. When I pumped the RV anti-freeze in, I could hear the anti-freeze going into the the water heater, I realized while I had drained it, I didn’t bypass it. So I drained some of the anti-freeze back out so I could use it. Came out very pink.
Ditto with the accumulator tank and
I had drained all the lines before running the RV anti-freeze through the system. So whatever water was in the accumulator and/or lines was minimized. I used around 14 gallons of RV antifreeze which should have resulted in giving the accumulator tank a good treatment of ant-freeze.
the water holding tank.
The Liberty instructions said to dump the black/grey tank and dump the fresh water tank, which I did. Next year I will probably raise the front of the bus and drop the right side to get as much water out of the fresh water tank as possible and do the opposite with the black/grey tank.
The Liberty instructions said to run a hose to join the sewer clean out spigot on the drivers side over to the fresh water in connection in the same bay to treat the water valve in the fresh water connection which I did. With the water pump on, when I opened the valve on the spigot and the fresh water inlet the pink antifreeze moved through the hose and I could hear it running into the fresh water tank. I drained a little out of the fresh water tank and it came out pink.
Then there are the places nobody gives much thought to. How do you winterize an RO system? Does an RO unit effectively remove anti-freeze from the water as it passes through, and
I don’t think my 1999 Libery had a reverse osmosis (RO) system. It had some kind of charcoal/sand water filter system that I didn’t drain initially before we went south to Florida (I used the RV antifreeze upon our return from Florida). It was two large PVC pipes plumbed together. When we got to Jeff Rowe’s on our trip down for some work, those were all cracked to hell (frozen) and junk. Jeff said that system’s effectiveness was questionable in the first place (I recall hearing the term “boat anchor”), his team removed it, and did a little plumbing to eliminate it from the system. I will probably install a RO system in the future and have to allow for it to be drained and probably bypassed. Maybe removed and bypassed?
How about the lines to the clothes washer and the lines internal to the washer?
The Lilberty instructions said to run the clothes washer on the rinse cycle, which I did. That put about four gallons of RV antifreeze in the washer and then run the spin cycle to get it out. That should have protected the lines to and from the clothes washer as well as the lines internal to the clothes washer.
Ditto if there is a dishwasher. if so is the coffee maker and the little spigot on the sink protected.
No dishwasher; had there been one I would have done the same thing as I did with the clothes washer. The coffee maker in our 1999 doesn’t have a water line to it and we don’t have a “little spigot” on the sink. I hope I don’t find either of those two in the spring!
I think you see my point that while winterizing is a superb way to protect a coach and make it immune from damage due to loss of power, it is not without its drawbacks.
Jon is right. One of the issues I see with a Prevost conversion is that we can’t see all the plumbing, but we need to understand where all the plumbing is, where it comes from and where it goes, so that when someone winterizes with this method they ensure everything is adequately addressed. During a “drain” where you open up all the valves which are supposed to drain all the pressure lines gravity does as much as it is capable of doing to get the freezable water out of the coach. But not having seen the coach built, I can’t tell you if there is a place for it to hide and getting that hidden water purged and all the lines filled with anti-freeze is the challenge.
The Liberty manual said to have eight (8) gallons of RV anti-freeze on hand. I used about fourteen (some of it went on the parking pad when I inadvertently left the fresh water holding tank dump valve open. Next year I will start the job with 20 gallons on hand and an assistant to pour the anti-freeze into the five gallon bucket; its not too expensive and it should last from one season to another.
I plan on unwinterizing the coach in mid-April and I’ll let you know how all this turns out!
Anyone out there with other experiences, better ideas, suggestions, etc … I would like to hear them.
Dick
BTW: If the coach has no power, unless the water pump is hard wired to the coach, this process could be done using shore power, an extension cord, and if the water pump cord has a twist-lock plug a pig tail might need to be made up. (If the water pump is hard wired, someone with some ingenuity should be able to “rig something up”.) If the coach has air valves and there is no power in the coach to run a compressor … I would have to think about that one for a while. If you can reach the auxiliary air compressor and plug it into shore power, that should solve that problem.
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I had the same leak out of the exhaust position of the 4 way valve. I put a 1/4inch pipe plug into it. Fixed. Now if I have to release belt tension, I just have to remove the pipe plug before I turn the valve.
Gerald
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As far as going through the Agriculture check point when entering Californication, I usually have a plastic shopping bag (just to tick off the Cali-greenies) with a banana, a couple of apples, an orange and usually a little lettuce. When I pull up, I open the toll window and hand them the bag and ask them how they are doing. They usually look in the bag, toss it into the waste receptical beside them and tell me to drive carefully and have a great day. I have never had one do a secondary when I do this. If they did do a secondary, I would be in big trouble and would put on an act by yelling at my wife for not getting ALL the fruit out of the ‘fridge. Seeing the big bad old man picking on the little fragile woman (who could kick my butt any day) for violating the law should turn their heart of stone into jelly.
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Tom,
The only time I open the valve is to charge the Prevost aux system before starting to allow the aux compressor to bring up the Prevost aux air so the engine belt bellows are pumped up. One reason to keep it closed when the bus is not running is the aux compressor makes a lot of water, so keeping it closed assures the water is within the Marathon system and can be drained via the Marathon aux tank.
On the other hand, I don’t see any reason why it can’t be open during traveling, the Prevost air is dry and clean, providing it is maintained properly.
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They busted Sid because they knew he was Cattle Tycoon. Hell, they sent him a tax bill for my bus.
That’s a story for another day.I know your smiling just thinking about that Buddy.
Later
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After much research it has just confirmed my original set up is correct. So I sent Air assist cyl out and got it back yesterday. They had to replace piston in it. This is at a trusted shop we have used for 40yrs on equipment components. Today may be the day for answers or more questions… Had my E-15 refreshened at same time as I didn’t know how old it was. No sign of moisture in air system/had been in valve. Bob
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I was watching one of those “buy the beach” TV shows and the Caribbean realtor said that you should live in an area that got no colder than your age.
So at 66, I should be living further South than I currently do.
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My bad, and I should have known better. I assumed a Webasto installation would be tied into the coach coolant system so when needed the engine block could be heated. That is why I mentioned the Webasto circuolating pump.
Tom is right about the Prevost circulation pump.
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Since when does Tom have a drivers license ?
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Jon, we too have no objection to running our genset as well for 24/7/365 in any situation I, too, have much difficulty shelling out 300 Bux a day for a patch of earth I responded back to last “Prevost ” mass email about the rally and its expense and what the menu would be. Someone emailed me back, don’t know who, stating they would work with me for a non dairy menu, but only said sorry we weren’t coming when addressing my cost concerns.
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Do u have the Prevost electrical drawings for your coach? They are available on the Prevost web site under technical publications and will show all the wiring details .
Just remember that Liberty may have changed the supply voltage from 24VDC to 12VDC.
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Dan will be there for sure!
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Tony…
I was just kidding around… looks like Tom got you fixed up…. did that fix your leak ?? LOL
Diane