John
Forum Replies Created
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I can assure you the toad will be with us whenever the bus is headed 50 miles plus from home. I’m wearing the big boy pants NOW. (as long as Kathy let’s me)
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I think that this rub issue is caused by 1)not running enough air in the drives or 2) doing a lot of tight turns with the tags up when you are manuvering around. You are putting another 18,000 – 20,000lbs on the drives when you raise the tags and since the wear is worse on one side than the other in both mine and Georges it could be explained by making more turns to the right with the tags up.
Just a thought.
Kit.
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David,
Not sure what part of Utah you are staying in, but if it’s near Moab, Ive driven by two that look decent.
Canyon Lands RV Resort and Archview RV Resort. They both looked decent and should handle a big rig.
http://www.highwaywestvacations.com/properties/canyonlands
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Jon,
If you lose an air bag the aux pressure will go down, as far as 0. But the air compressor will start making air pressure and try to fill the aux tank, but the valve at the aux tank will not let air in until the supply line from the compressor is at 90 psi. The front and rear tanks have a check valve to prevent air from leaving the tanks to go back into the supply line. So after you apply the brakes and the tanks lose pressure the compressor will maintain 90 psi in the front and rear tanks as the aux tank will not let air in until the supply line is at 90 psi.
Yes, the coach will fall on the bad air bag corner and you would want to stop asap. But there is little to no chance the brakes will lock up due to low front and rear tank pressure.
The parking brake is not controlled by the aux tank. Both the front and rear tank can supply the brake protection valve. There is a combiner in the front run bay that handles that. As long as one tank is above the apply psi (usually 60 psi) the parking brake will not apply.
A failed brake chamber pancake is a different conversation.
The relay valve is also a different conversation.
As far as the compressor running it runs 100% of the time. Sometimes it is “loaded” (sending pressure to the system) and sometimes it is unloaded” (not making pressure) this is controlled by the air pressure governor.
There is an easy way to check the tank check valves. Drain the front or rear tank with the coach not running and the other one should hold pressure. Then do the other one.
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Dick wonders how the settings are changed on his older remotes. He looked closely at the remotes and what appears to be the back of where the remotes are installed (the toilet room) but doesn’t see any easy access. No screws to remove to allow a panel to be removed giving access to the back of the remotes.
Is the procedure to remove the four screws from the front of the remote and pull the remote out of the panel, change the DIP switches, reinstall the remote in the panel, and then replace the four screws?
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Very Good Ideas
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A Vantare owner will have to provide specifics, but generally there likely is a number of potential line restrictions. You have to follow the plumbing from the fill water connection poiint to the tank to see where they are located and check each one.
I would guess at the very least you have a manual valve, a check valve and a solenoid valve. You may also have a device that regulates the pressure of the incoming water supply and limits that pressure to about 45 PSI. Its purpose is to allow you to use city water instead of water pumped from your tank while protecting the coach from extreme pressures. My first place to look would be that device, but I would not rule out the other components either.
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Jon, You’re absolutely right. I reset both inverters and that stopped the “low battery” light indicator. Now I have to find out why. I’m reading they the trace inverter manual but it’s not easy to absorb in one sitting.
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Wow… what a difference an upgrade makes… looks so big and clean !! Good job !!
Cheers…Diane
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As you can see, where our buses fit in, the sites are fairly generously sized.
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After reading all of the posts, I got up last night about 10:30 and drove over to the bus. I started the Webasto and in about 20 minutes of run time the temp gage on the dash had come up about 50 degrees and the coolant hoses back in the engine compartment were warm as Tom said they would be. On my 99 XLV Marathon the valves that everybody are talking about are in the compartment behind the tag axel on the drivers side, both valves are just above the Webasto. I don’t know which one is for the coach and which one is for the engine, as neither is marked. I also assume that the switch on the dash marked block heat, actually is an oil heater used to help keep the oil warm, to ease starting the engine. I’ve never touch the valves and as someone said on the OTR coaches, when the wife gets cold going down the road, I would think that if the valve was shut off, I would not be able to turn the temp up slightly, or am I mistaken.
Mark
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Dick, I am well aware of the potential danger to linemen and so far we haven’t had an outage of sufficient length of time to require me to connect my generator to my house and garage.
I will always trip the main breaker. I used the word emergency and if I am powering my house and garage it is an emergency.
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Dick,
I’m thinking you should look into a Generac propane fired 25-35 KW standby genset. Run the hole house, even if your gone to Fla. in the winter…That is what I did.
Steve
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2x on the diverters. I’ll take two.
2x on the altimeter. What is the make and model. Anyone know? I think our coach had the altimeter and an outside air temp gauge that the previous owner took out. I found a blade shaped “probe” behind the front bumper but haven’t traced it back yet. The location where I think all this stuff was installed in the dash looks like it was filled with a “tray” to put stuff in. I’d rather have the altimeter and OAT gauge.