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  • Can 30 AMP do this

    Posted by Chuck on March 29, 2016 at 4:10 pm

    At th “now Your Prevost” seminar Jeff emphacticlly says plug into nothing except 50 AMP. Well, we are bringing home the “new to us” ’03 XL11 and our 50 AMP is not ready. Will my 30 at least ren the AUX compresser and keep the batteries up?

    Dick replied 10 years, 4 months ago 18 Members · 34 Replies
  • 34 Replies
  • Towson

    Member
    March 29, 2016 at 5:42 pm

    It absolutely will. Merely set each inverter to only draw 14 amps and then just run a few of the needed circuits. I stored my coach for several years in a facility with only a 20 amp circuit and kept everything charged and thawed. I’m sure one of the Liberty guys will weigh in on this.

  • Archived

    Member
    March 29, 2016 at 10:04 pm

    Be sure your 30 amp circuit is a 120 volt 30 amp RV outlet and not a 240 volt 30 amp clothes dryer circuit.

  • AL

    Member
    March 30, 2016 at 6:54 am

    I’ll try to be Liberty specific in the answer.

    First, if the coach is stored indoors and you have no need to keep the accessory air pressure up, don’t even turn on the aux air compressor. But if it is stored outdoors, regardless of whether the slide is in or out the seals need to be pressurized at all times.

    So if you have only 30 amp service, consider that you can only rely on a total of 24 amps reliably. My aux compressor current draw starts out around 10 amps, but as pressure builds it can go as high as about 14 amps. To reduce the current draw, lower the pressure set points. We don’t need aux air pressures any greater than 40 to 80 PSI so reset the pressure switch to a lower setting to keep the current draw down a little.

    Then your inverters do need to be reset to a lower current which is done via dip switches on the rear of the remote panels. I believe I set mine at 10 amps. Keep in mind that in storage you have to minimize all current draws so only leave the Battery 1 and Battery 2 switches on, the aux compressor on, rear outlets and front outlets ON, and all other switches off. The front and rear outlets will keep power to the Crestron and Crestron related devices which can be front or back.

    Monitor the loads and you will likely see if you store the coach with fully charged batteries your current loads will be well within the 24 amp total current draw. That includes the various phantom loads that will keep the inverters charging the batteries.

  • Kevin

    Member
    March 30, 2016 at 9:46 am

    Thanks for the instruction and will let you know if I find all the resets and dip switches, LOL!

  • Archived

    Member
    March 30, 2016 at 4:16 pm

    I thought the dip switches on the rear of the control panels were a PITA. When I dry camp, I have both inverters set to pull up to 20 amps each to charge batts on generator. When I store the coach, I’m on 20 amps total and turn the inverters to 5 amps each max draw. Upgrading your inverters will provide you with the means to change on the front of the panel itself. Obviously, if you never dry camp, you can leave your charge rate down all the time and it’s not an issue.

  • Dick

    Member
    April 18, 2016 at 1:34 pm

    We talk about remote panels and dip switches to reset the inverters? Not sure what this is?

  • Archived

    Member
    April 18, 2016 at 7:40 pm

    The older inverter/charger remotes had dip switches on the backside of the remote that you could use to change various settings.

  • Archived

    Member
    April 18, 2016 at 8:25 pm

    Is there a remote for the inverters.

  • Greg

    Member
    April 19, 2016 at 8:53 am

    The remotes are on your electrical panel in the bus and being a Liberty, probably in the galley.

    May look like this..


  • joel

    Member
    April 19, 2016 at 9:01 am

    Look at the other post by Dick regarding voltages, that’s a good picture of his late 90’s vintage Liberty remotes.


    1999 XLV X-6872,  liberty #440
  • Archived

    Member
    April 19, 2016 at 11:33 am

    Tom you have me confused, that remote you show should be able to change everything from the front right?

    Greg

  • Dorel

    Member
    April 19, 2016 at 11:36 am

    The ones Dick showed you change from the back

  • John

    Member
    April 19, 2016 at 1:23 pm

    Dick wonders how the settings are changed on his older remotes. He looked closely at the remotes and what appears to be the back of where the remotes are installed (the toilet room) but doesn’t see any easy access. No screws to remove to allow a panel to be removed giving access to the back of the remotes.

    Is the procedure to remove the four screws from the front of the remote and pull the remote out of the panel, change the DIP switches, reinstall the remote in the panel, and then replace the four screws?

  • Archived

    Member
    April 19, 2016 at 5:26 pm

    yes, that’s why I considered it a PITA and upgraded for that reason alone.

  • Archived

    Member
    April 19, 2016 at 6:10 pm

    First, let’s dispel the myth. We can store our coaches quite well with 30 amp, but don’t expect to have all the comforts of home. You have to manage the power and try to stay at a 24 amp or less current draw.

    Your inverters should be set to draw current based on how you use or plan to use the coach. If you have the Freedom 2500 inverters that were standard on coach you can set the current draw on the inverters using the dip switches on the rear of the remote panel. Take out the four screws in the corner and the remote back can be accessed. The users manual for the inverters lists what the dip switch settings should be.

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