John
Forum Replies Created
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On a trip last year we had to have the Series 60 pulled at a DD dealer who had never worked on a Prevost. We had no choice. We were very lucky we could ‘limp’ to the DD dealer. Bedroom floor section had to be removed. But, the tech was fantastic and was amazed at the quality of all the ss fittings and the relative ease of sliding the engine out. Two weeks later, living in a hotel, throwing away all fridge and freezer contents, and $20k paid up front, we were on the road again as happy campers.
Nothing is like a Prevost. Amazing machine. But go in with eyes open and lots of $$.
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Sorry, I missed your note the other day….been so tied up between Thanksgiving and my water heaters. I admire what you did….sounds like it will work fine. When I talked to Marathon/SanAntonio,FL, they started talking about altering plumbing and changing things, etc, etc, etc….my wallet started smoking. I figured I had zero to lose…plus I had a guy who said he could do the tank repair I needed.
I’m getting close to the finish line…I’ll get you know how it goes!
I appreciate everyone’s contributions to my efforts….P/C is a great place to find out what you need to know!!!
TY
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MOR Electric Heating
Item # 1414-2020-000
Sku# QMARK14142020000
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There is 10 times more information available about Prevost conversions than your average high end RV. I was surprised to see all the maintenance information for 25 year old coaches on the Prevost website. Simply unheard of today. And you can still order parts for these coaches! Unbelievable.
Now, there are complex parts of our coach such as Marathon Techlink that are not documented. It is essentially a proprietary multiplexed serial communication system built by Techlon. The system is still supported by Marathon and the original contractor but ten years from now, who knows?
Same issues with all new cars and trucks. In the CAN bus era, these vehicles have become a complex network of serial buses, controllers and computers. Try to have some weird CAN bus issue repaired on a 10 year old Ferrari. Or pick any other brand. You’ll be in for a shock.
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I’m surprised at such a small increase in pressure from pre trip to underway.
Mine increases much more than that……but, I don’t have the new sensors either.
My inside right rear drive is always hotter than others too.
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The radiator and CAC/intercooler look great. No corrosion, no bent fins.
I can’t see any leaks looking from the fan side to the radiator fins. I’ll try to snake a camera between the CAC and the radiator from the outside but my best guess is it leaks at the very bottom.
Is the bottom of the radiator screwed to the radiator? Which bolts would I have to tighten? Isn’t the radiator just one piece?
Thanks for your help!
Gerald
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Get a TPMS from Tom and read the pressures and temperatures from the dash or your phone. It will give you alerts of low pressure or high heat while driving. Most all the truck stops have decent double head tire gauges. Have each axle weighed and run the correct pressure. Search the archives on the subject, you will find a lot of information that may or may not be useful. But it will be entertaining…
Do you have 365 tires ? Search that also…
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In looking at the photos on this thread, the new style latch appears to be a stouter design at the failure point. If I open the door panel, I’m inclined simply to replace the old latch with the new one and not bother with a ripcord.
Is this wishful thinking on my part? Do you folks who have replaced door latch agree the new one appears stronger? Has anyone had a failure occur with the new style latch, either as a replacement on an XL or as oem on an XLII?
Hmmm…in looking back, it appears there are 2 instances of failure on later model coaches.
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welcome, locals
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I am late on this post, but if y’all have a good compressor left over for sale, I need one to replace mine as well.
Thanks
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Im not sure 3′ would get you there to see enough but something like this and also a long picker upper. I have also used in similar cases, a long, thin (but somewhat stiff) vinyl tube with a string through it. On the business end, tie a loop in string. Once you have it around object, pull the opposite end of string and lasso the end of it.
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I watched all 3 air gauges while the engine compressor was increasing pressure. Primary, secondary and accessory gauges. When the compressor stopped & fired the air dryer only the accessory gauge took a rapid drop in pressure from 125 psi down to 105 psi and holds at 105 psi. The other 2 gauges only flinched a couple psi & held very near 125 psi. Almost like there is a leak in the accessory system above 105 psi?
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Nothing wrong with that Jimmie. Im glad you asked and didnt fill er up to the top!
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I know you’re looking for answers to “what price to expect” but what an incredibly difficult question? There are just soooooooo many things that go into this. Not withstanding those who price their bus way too high and frankly some who pirce there bus too low. I think the first thing is Do You Really Like The Bus? We can forgive some problems we have if we love our purchase!
I get updates when new Prevost Conversions come on the market from 1988 to 1994. These bus’s have the 8V92 Detroit Diesels and fit into the type of bus I have. I see bus’s in this range from $45,000 to $119,000. Both ends of that spectrum are out there!
Find what you like, have someone knowledgeable about a Prevost Bus and even the conversion if possible. And if you like the bus, the price is in line with your budget, BUY IT! Jon here on the forum has stated many times and take it to heart… “Don’t buy anything without $20,000 you can afford to put into the bus!” Or “buy $20,000 less bus” so you have extra working capital. That right there is some of the best advice anyone can give you! And Jon doesn’t have that many good ideas so grab onto the ones you can get!
Harry
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Jeffs price is a bargain!
I’m a DIYer, about 2 yrs ago, I paid Prevost $1500 for the 8 bags for my bus.
Prevost puts them on sale occasionally for 25% off what I paid. I wasn’t patient or lucky enough to catch that deal 🙁