[John]

Pumps make noise when low on fluid sometimes, most times really. Could be the pump by itself too.

Any leaks?

[John]

If everything is OK when you remove the Watchdog from the circuit, but you blow fuses when it is reconnected it sure points towards the Watchdog as the source of the problem.

You will be in good hands with Bill.

[John]

Use a very small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads of the valve stem. It’s common for dissimilar metals to seize without it.

[John]

Al………If you hadn’t taken a shot at us Liberty guys in the discussion of pumps VS city water I wouldn’t mention your Microphor cost of parts (ignoring the time spent, frustration, and the fact when you were messing with it you knew some smart aleck was going to say something). But I thought it was worth mentioning. So I did.

But I have to tell you I am impressed with the results of your efforts. You really did a good job.

[John]

OK I’m awake now. I was offline for a day or two trying to make a living. And yes Pelican Lake is in Naples. It appears that there should be a fair amount of Prevost people in or around Pelican Lake over the next few weeks. We’re working on it.

[John]

I don’t think you can count on the fitting or connector to be like JIM showed. I had one that was a capped pipe thread. The key is that whatever the fitting you just have to get fuel pumped through it.

[John]

Are you searching on your iPhone or iPad? I searched on my phone and it was no where to be found. When I realized it was an iPad app only I searched on it and right there it was!

DKO

[John]

Tom

I am nearing the point in the next 2-3 mos that I need batteries for my conversion after just finishing installation of the inverter. I am converting an OTR coach into a MTH. I have made space for 6 batteries in the rack I welded together. I was “thinking” about the whole process this weekend. I went to O’Reilley’s today when I was just killing time and found I could get 6 group 31 FLA for a total of $663 or 6 Bluetop Dual Purpose Lifelines for $1230. According to propaganda on the Lifelines that O’Reilley’s had, the lifelines should last about 50% longer. I have a Xantrex 4024 inverter to charge things. My zip code is 65721. What do you have available?

Rob

Missouri

[John]

Price matters, service matters, space matters all consideration in RV batteries. One of the most important features in my opinion using AGM’s is no mess from battery acid on the RV.

But the price does get ones attention.

[John]

Thanks guys, now the next question is how you get the damn thing out of there? I suppose the motor is built in and will have a quick disconnect for the wiring. Can’t remove the valance, so there must be a trick.

[John]

Might check with a good Hunter Douglas home service company. We have HD in our home. They have a tech that is really good.

[John]

I think the original had argon gas, they couldn’t confirm that,
but they just pull a vacuum, then seal and offer a written 10 year
guarantee, prorated.

I have a tour of the procedure today, takes about 10 minutes and
will report back.

[John]

Looks like I found this bulb style. They are called a rigid loop or Festoon. Most seem to be 44mm in length. Commonly used in interior dome lights on newer cars/trucks. There are some that are only 41mm and many options on Ebay for LED versions.

[John]

I am not sure how your Royale is set up. Mine the aquahot and tanks are all in the same bay. The heat from the aquahot being on electric goes a long way in keeping the bay warm. Mine has a heat exchanger in the bath loop with no fan. There is a ththermostat in the bay with the sewer drain that operates a fan that moves air across the bay. In my plastic coach days I was assured the aquahot can be fired with all the domestic water drained.

[John]

Thanks Jon. All of the obvious stuff is pretty much in check. The batteries were acting and performing just fine. Our coach is always plugged in and we have not lost shore power since Saturday. The batteries remain in “float” at all times as other than the phantom loads, nothing has been used on the 12v side.

Wondering if my charger(s) are not turning on or functioning as my voltage continues to read between 11.5V and 12V on the remote meters while the remote panel reads it is in “charge” mode.

I checked the bank with a multimeter and each battery reads 12.19 volts. They are not showing any signs of overcharge (boiling, gurgling, heat or overflow of electrolyte).

Both chargers are set to full amperage for charging.

Any thoughts on a wire that might keep the panel from actually kicking in the chargers? They both read “charge” but they are not reading voltage that the chargers are functioning.