John
Forum Replies Created
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DP
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Dick, Jon is absolutely correct.
It’s my standards and qualifications that could be substandard.
Willfully working on a Liberty could cause something to rub off on a previous SOB coach owner.
Help me out here Al.
Having owned a CC and a Marathon, I just didn’t get much experience learning to repair stuff, they never broke You believe this crap, right.
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Your Norgren logic may be different from mine. On my 93, when the aux tank reaches 35psi, the 3 port Norgren switches and vents the tag bag. That is the Norgren which signals the tag to raise or lower. I plugged my vent port so I can not raise the tag but, I never raise the tag so I don’t care. When it vents the right and left sides may vent at different rates and so it looks like it is settling more on one side.
that logic was changed in later coaches but Jon will have to say when.
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New Mexico is closing its state parks and booting everyone out.
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Jon
On turning off the master switch, hasn’t there been threads in the past discussing NOT turning off the master switch because of lost programming on items like electric window shades etc…
Chuck
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I’ve had mixed experience on re-cores with old automobiles but the labor to change one is pretty low. On the bus I might opt for the new radiator. Labor is much more extensive with the bus and the same either with either part, but for me the peace of mind would be worth it.
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I believe the Watchdog voltage for auto-start is 10.9 volts. It might work but at that voltage the curve from a 12 volt charged state to the battery shut down voltage is almost vertical so the time between 10.9 volts and shut down volts is almost nothing.
If the Watchdog can be fooled into auto-start when the actual battery voltage is 11.8 it should work well because that voltage is at the point where the voltage curve is beginning to go from its almost steady 12+ volt line to the near vertical drop off.
https://relionbattery.com/products/lithium/rb200
Discharging a Li to the low voltage shut down does not damage the battery, but if it shuts down it needs to be recharged ASAP.
As long as an alternator has power to the field wire such as in a single alternator set up where the alternator charges both chassis and house I see no reason for any other charging from a different device prior to using the alternator.
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Just reach in the steer compartment with the accessory system aired up, key off.
Crack each compression fitting on the outlet side of the solenoid valve manifold. No air should escape. If that is the case, as Don suggests it is highly likely a 5 port Norgren has a spool not shifting to the neutral position as it should and it is allowing air to pass through it.
The only time you should get air through any of the valves on the manifold is with the key on. And then not always depending on what function you have selected at the level low controls.
I think yours is the pure, unaltered Prevost system.
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I am not an expert, but Liberty uses a 2 contact transfer switch. The contacts are essentially heavy duty relays. The system is set to have the contacts open when no power from shore or the generator is available. The coach is getting its power through the inverters.
If shore power is connected to the coach the appropriate contact closes allowing shore power to enter the coach. Until shore power is energized at the pole the contact is open so no power in the coach can back feed. If power (inverter or generator) could back feed and a person could risk electrical shock from the prongs on the shore power cord receptacle on the coach or on the shore power cord.
When generator power is available within the transfer switch is a provision to open the shore power contact to prevent just the sort of incident described.
That coach should be checked to insure the transfer switch is operating as intended because it sounds like something has failed and the shore power contacts remain closed while the generator is running.
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I’ve tried NAPA
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Nice work Don, and that’s a pretty clean tool bench too.
Chuck
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When I had a travel trailer, I would have gladly paid $20 to simply plug in for 10 hours and go back and sleep with air conditioning. I’d pay that with the bus just to not have to worry about being hassled for parking at one of the Walmart’s that doesn’t allow it.
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Detroit says 60,000 miles. Many shops will say to wait until 100,000. I had issues with my first (2006) engine having an injector hold down come loose at just under the 60k mark if memory serves. I had that fixed as well as the complete tune up. Most of the valves and injectors were out of spec.
My second one (2010) was done at 60k as well. There were many valves and injectors either too tight or too loose in this one too. There is no reason to wait past the 60k mark that I can see. There was a noticeable improvement in engine smoothness and fuel mileage after the tune up.
I only paid about $700 bucks for the tune ups. Cheap insurance considering what it would cost if you dropped a valve or had other issues. Hell, the tow to a shop would cost more than that in many cases.
I now have a Volvo and will have that one done at the Volvo specified mileage too.
I also change oil at around 5000 miles. Oil is way cheaper than engines.
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I don’t know anything about this particular coach, but I notice from the photo that Premium Coach Group is apparently the broker.
I purchased my coach from PCG and dealt with Chad Stevens in 2015 and found them to be a broker/dealer of the highest quality with regard to honesty and integrity. I stated in a post then, and would say again now, that I would have no hesitation in dealing with Premium Coach Group again.
John
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You did not say what kind of trouble, I was told to try the reset/ restore to factory setting, and do a Whole coach reset.
worked for me.