Joe
Forum Replies Created
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Thank ya’ll for your welcome to the forum. We close on our coach tomorrow and will be picking it up in Dallas in a couple of weeks.
We plan to get to know the Liberty and travel, ending up in Traverse City, Michigan. We signed up for October at ETLC so hope to see some of you there.
Concerning tools, I do have a Fluke meter and heat gun, basic tools, will buy wrenches and will see what else comes up.
Harmon
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During high heat conditions in rv parks, I will usually turn off all battery charging from inverters, water heater, aux air pump, etc. during the day. Easy to catch up at night when demand is down and I can usually function on 2 a/c units. Ever looked at your current draw with 2 a/c’s and a microwave all running on one leg?
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Mike: Where did you get the new LED taillights from?
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Art
I just went thru the same thing with my 97XL Royale. #1 inverter stopped inverting, so I moved sub panel breakers so the fridge would run off of #2.
Cleaned and run ok for a bit. Then #2 stopped charging….I had Inverter Service in White House, Tenn pull the Freedom 25’s and put in 2 Magnum 2812’s PSW units.
Art they can be repaired but why….they like mine were 20yr old and the new technology is far superior.
Jonathan Fine
97XL Royale #201 -
We are very fortunate to have service providers like Tradewinds and they have done a great job for our members. Keep them in mind for your service needs or your next coach. They get nothing but praise for their work.
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Thanks to everyone for the input and recommendations. The toilet only leaked the one time and the odor is now minimal. I have spoken to several services here in Vegas and I don’t have much confidence in their experience. Kind of like you said Jon. I think we are going to stay on course with our plans for now and do a refurb later in the year. If it starts leaking continuously, we will make a run to Taylor Tours in Phoenix. Thanks Dan.
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Three years and counting, love our Liberty
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It looks like the stacker is sticking way out behind the site but that is not the case at all. All the sites in this row are 110ft.
As for travelling with the stacker, in the 2 years that we have been towing it, there has been only 1 situation, where we were forced to unhook.
Everywhere else, we got in and we got out without unhooking.
Of course, I learned fast from my mistakes when taking tight turns.
All in all, we love having the stacker. Car in the bottom, kayak trailer with 2 kayaks on top as well as 2 bicycles, my tools and workshop and dry goods and canned supplies. Just added a 90 quarts cooler/freezer, too, so we can take advantage of buying food and adult beverages when the opportunity arises.
🙂
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It does now! After that incident, I went with “Co-pilot for RV’s”.
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Stainless is a very forgiving and workable material. Small dents can be easily repaired and bumpers are an excellent place to learn and use the skills because they are relatively thick.
The first step is to press or hammer the dents out. No heat is required, just a good eye to restore the bumper to a near flat condition.
Then use a sander or grinder (for the bumper a small belt sander is ideal) remove the uneven small surface irregularities. It is likely this step will be combined with more hammering to bring the low spots up to the surface so the final sanded surface is even with the rest of the bumper. The grit of the belt is determined by how much material is needed to get a smooth surface. The dent removal is very important because you want to avoid removing a lot of metal.
Using progressively finer sandpaper grits work the surface to a smoother and smoother condition taking great pains to keep the sander moving to avoid heating the stainless steel. Heat created, especially on thinner gauge material will ruin the part because it will distort the metal. Avoiding heat is also important during polishing.
As the grits get finer sanding begins to remove the “grain” left by coarser grits. I have worked from 220 up to 1500 grit on a bumper I repaired. With the final sanding complete begin the process of polishing. The principle is the same as sanding with the use of more aggressive grits initially working toward finer polishes. For a bumper I have ended up with a white rouge with very good results. Again, keep moving with the buff to avoid heat buildup on the metal.
The polishing discs (buffs) are also progressively more aggressive typically ending with a loose buff.
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2001 would have been an XLII, haven’t seen any of those with the rubber bumper.
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Art, don’t over think this………if your temps are cycling up and down as you ascend a steep hill on a hot day everything is working as it should.
Your DDEC is signalling the fan clutch to do what it is supposed to and if you absolutely have to prove it is working do as described above with a modified relay.
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Al, those are Roy’s speeds, Martha runs just shy of warp speed. (-:
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Marius
Go into your steering bay and start checking the connection in there with soapy water. If that tank in there gets below 35PSI the tags drop and for some reason the right side first or at least it goes down further. Does the pressure gauge on the dash go down as well? If so check the connections to the back of the gauge for leaks and also in the front (tire well) bay on the ceiling. That is where the lines come out from for the dash gauges. I know on mine those connections and soapy water looked like a bubble show.