[Jerry]

Thanks Everyone!

No the tag actuators don’t budge when selected and there no exhaust sound either.

Here’s a couple of questions for yawl?

1) Does the aux air system have anything to do with controlling the tag bags?

2) the valve pictured below(Norgren#??????), which is connected to and just aft of the driver side Norgren bag valve, has a pipe plug in it too? I don’t think it is suppose to? I believe where the plug is the exhaust for the tag bag actuator chambers? The Norgren #K910026 are $1.70 ea at finditparts.com.

Thoughts?

I bet-cha there was a normally closed tag bag valve(#K910026) or two stuck open so the exhaust ports where plugged to get down the road or out the door? I’m gonna unplug them and see how everything works(or not).

[Jerry]

John, I don’t know how Royale set up their bay, but if possible can you drop the panel under the center of the top and use that as a pathway out of the 1st bay? Once you get out at that point you are able to work any wire into the steer compartment.

[Jerry]

Bryan,

Did that nice looking blue end up looking greenish like all of ours?

[Jerry]

Paul, We have friends who own Coach 634 who travelled several years ago with Marathon Coach 635, (blue and tan) they spent summer in Alaska. This coach is not in Dallas. Coach 534 is there now. On a similar note Steve Bennett at California Coach has a 2000 Marathon H3-45 #586′ tan and copper and yellow.

[Jerry]

If the solenoid coil has power (because the coil is warm) it suggests to me the dash temperature control is working. Because it is getting power (and has not failed something I am guessing because it is warm) the problem is likely elsewhere. Does that loop have an expansion valve that could have failed?

[Jerry]

Greg,

If you’re coach has the 365 upgrade on the steering and or tag, they are the stud piloted 33mm. The drive axle on your coach will be 11/2 inch “Bud style” inner and outer. If you don’t have 365’s, they will all be the Bud type 1 1/2 “.

[Jerry]

On the delam on the Vitricor. You go to Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, etc. Get contact adhesive. You can buy it in quart or gal size cans. Buy a couple of through away 1″-2″ paint brushes. You have to use a putty knife in some cases and completely remove the piece, but in most cases you can just apply a good layer on each piece and also the area that it be glued too. Let each dry 10-15 mins and then stick them together. If you have to remove a piece completely, remove it carefully, it can crack very easily, you will have to have a steady hand an apply the piece exactly back.. Vitricor is not available anymore, so you can not buy it anymore.

[Jerry]

D and J are you talking about the TEc in Wilsonville? I live very close and would be very happy to help you go thru things.

971-645-3344

Greg

[Jerry]

When our coach stops charging it could be a number of things, so before assuming your alternator (assuming it is a 50DN) has quit look for a broken wire. More than one of us have had the field wire break at the alternator or the voltage regulator. If that wire is secure and you are comfortable working on the electrical system you can run a jumper between the alternator field terminal and a 12 or 24 volt power source. Which one depends on how your converter uses or sets up the DC voltage system.

By running the jumper you will see the voltage output from the alternator start to climb out of control (be prepared to pull the jumper wire before it gets too high) or not be there at all. If the voltage at the alternator output starts to climb the regulator is likely the problem. If it doesn’t the alternator is likely the problem.

The reason for being able to do a quick check like this yourself is the alternator is an easy and quick change out involving a screw driver, something anyone can do and a replacement from Prevost can come overnight. A 50DN alternator is not such an easy replacement and requires a strong back.

[Jerry]

Larry & Diane,

Thanks. I told everyone that I was a member of a very elite club with extremely high dues. Haha. Hope yours sells quick. I’m not sure if we have met. What have you got that you will be selling?

Thanks Tom,

I’ll feel even better once the money shows.

[Jerry]

Not normal for quickleak down. Having spent nearly a month chasing air leaks I’ll list the following major sources of air leaks.

1) check valve on AUX compressor- replacement suggested every 2 years

2) AUX filter usually mounted in drivers bay. This filter is the moister trap but over time small pieces of dirt keep the discharge open. You will probably never hear this one. Using soapy water on the discharge tube and watch very close.

3) Air toilet flush handle

4) If your mfg used any SMC rotating manifold valves…with your bus age they leak.

5) recently I had developed a very slow leak on AUX air again. With the help of an electronic leak detector found the AUX air valve for blast of air on the back-up camera to clean the lense. leaking. i rarely use this and have been thinking of capping off this line to prevent any future leaks

6) drain valve on AUX green tank in drivers bay. If you see a round disc gate valve get rid of it. Over time the surfave inside the valve will not seal tightly. I have found that valve leaking on most tanks. It’s just not made for the long haul.

All is back to normal with appox 5 day leak done until compressor cut-in.

[Jerry]

Park brake valve and tag valve napa

[Jerry]

Corey,

Yea, it does have a Flat screen in front of the Gen.

[Jerry]

Thank you and the others who have welcomed me into the fold. Sandy and I are eagerly looking forward to our return to the Prevost lifestyle and to meet up again with friends we’ve lost contact with.

Grizz

[Jerry]

I know Tom had his eye on that 2006 CC with 2 slides that was on display at the rally. Tom, no worries, us CC owners can understand your desire to see what all the hype was with Liberties.

I hope we can welcome you back soon!