Greg
Forum Replies Created
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Thanks Jerry.
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Larry,
I do have 365’s on steer and tag.
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Hey Marius,
Mine are the 24v IR controlled motors with each shade having its own board that controls the shade. I’ll give those guys a shout and see if they might have one stashed away somewhere. Thank you for your help! -Billy
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The check valve is usaully right behind or part of the hose connector. You can get a new one at Camping World or such.
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You can also backfill the system from a dump pipe cover with a hose connection on it if you don’t have a macerator system. Probably not a very pleasant job, but definately doable with little trouble.
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Get them from Prevost, the rears are about 45 bucks, they have the Koni’s as well for the front, don’t remember exactly what I paid, but about 1800 rings a bell.
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Already there appears to be a rift in the Country Coach crowd. Fellow member and Country Coach owner George is a highly respected attorney, yet for some reason a fellow Country Coach owner snubs him and instead retains a Liberty owner for representation.
I want to hear the excuses.
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Others with more knowledge can answer but it is not supposed to leak at all, from my view The danger is if there is a leak, even when the engine is runnng, the leak can become pronounced and affect the ability of the two valves to remain fully extended. If that happens, the belt on the radiator drive (and dash air conditioning compressor) can become less engaged (less efficient) and the engine cooling will definitely be affected and the temperature will rise to a shutdown mode if allowed to continue. My experience when this happened to me was that the engine hit 220 and I freaked out. When you get out to check it with the engine running, it will appear to be operating correctly and the temperature will go down….the problem, comes when you get under operating conditions (higher RPMs) and other conditions running brings…
The fix is easy. Take it apart and redo with a sealing tape…
Pres.
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Jon from your picture the that flat spot looks like a place to use a wrench to tighten the extention.
Greg
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Davy,
The valve stem can be rotated by loosening the nut and turning, but sometimes when they’ve been on a long time they stick and then won’t seal again. At that point, you have to break down the tire and replace the stem. If it turns easy, chances are it won’t leak. Looking at yours, when you remove the sensor, the stem may hit the side of the hole and not allow you turn it without breaking down the tire.
I position mine to rotate in the direction of the wheel.
Inside dual
Tool for the inside dual to elimate any extension.
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Wow ! How nice of Frank to stay so attuned to his customer base.
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Or just not drive the Bus in Savannah! Ouch! I will remember this on our travels!
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There is a start and run caps,the compressor is a tecumseh AKA8515EXA,AAP has them in stock make sure you also install a new dryer,I think they are a little north of $800.
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I considered fixing the aftermarket compressor, but given how noisey it is, and its low output, I think a new compressor is the best option.
I would have rebuilt the orighinal GAST compressor, but it was long gone before I bought the bus. Oh well …
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I can echo what Jeff posted because I have had the type of failures in which the total coach was shut down.
I am not suggesting LI batteries may have failure points that will do that, but I know when the failure happened on my coach hundreds of miles from home and a service location I had to do some temporary rewiring to be able to get home. It is important to understand how your coach is impacted if a part or circuit should fail. In most cases we have either some redundancy, or we have a means of bypassing the defective part.
A good design will provide a means of dealing with a failure. But the burden is still on you as owner to understand how you are going to deal with a failure when your only access to service is a phone.