[Glenn]

Thanks Peter, I checked my toe heater in the salon and it was the old model that had never been replaced. It was full of lint and whatever. I have always used the Wabasto system side of the heating system and I’m glad I didn’t light this one up. Got 3 new replacement ones from toolfetch for $1530 each. Easy fix. The new ones still say to clean every 6 months. I think my bay heater is the same too, but it was pouring today. Peter, your posts are always great.

This community has so much great information in it. I have learned so much about my old coach just by reading everyone’s posts and then checking to see if mine could have the same issue.

[Glenn]

Here’s a little secret………..C&G nailed it, but until an owner gets an opportunity to develop relationships with other Prevost owners and has an opportunity to develop his or her own list of trusted service personell it is a risk anytime someone works on his coach. That is, unless as glens points out the company commands respect within their industry.

We have a lot of active members on this site and I can tell you we are not going to censor posts about a service provider. Just to be clear, if a service provider takes advantage of someone that person can post their experience. If it is the truth there is little the guilty party can do to harm the person posting or this web site. We will censor and delete posts that say XXX Company sucks if there is no explaination of the details.

If you read the forum you will find our members also praise service providers. That does not mean those service providers cannot stub their toes and make mistakes. But if you read through them you will find some of the posts are about screw ups, but the purpose of the post was to make people aware that the service provider went out of their way to make the owner satisfied. Those are the service shops we want to support and patronize.

Shitty service hurts us all. It makes the victim bitter and when someone gets taken advantage of their displeasure is felt by us all. We can all sympathize because we are all potentially at the mercy of those incompetents, either by getting taken advantage of, or by ending up with a coach someone has screwed up.

This site was created to benefit all Prevost enthusiasts. Share your experiences, good and bad and name names.

[Glenn]

The voltages you state confuse me. I would expect to see voltages more like the range of 24 to 28 volts.

But, assuming there is no isolator, but there is some means of separating the two banks when the alternator is not charging I would look for a relay circuit. One of my previous coaches had a 4th terminal connection on the alternator for a relay which was nothing more than a solenoid like the firewall mounted ones on old cars. When the alternator was not charging the circuit was open, when it was charging the solenoid closed allowing charging current to the house. My later coaches had an isolator.

[Glenn]

Jon as always has this one defined. If anyone knows of anything other than Jon’s input, please post here. The only thing I can see (and learn from this site) is educate as much as you can prior to purchase, get as much knowledgeable outside imput/support as you can and purchase the coach you like when you are ready.

make sure you are ready to be able to use it prior to purchase, sitting coaches are not a good idea.

[Glenn]

Jon, yes 50 dn massive oil cooled for house, smaller for chassis.

Do I feel safe doing electrical test….hmm…well my dumbass just fried the Vanner monitor in engine bay I think (or it was already roached) More on that later…. ( I understand monitor is for chassis and inconsquential)

Yeah I think I can do a quick test….I had a look at connections and they sem good except for one which looks a little dodgy…I think it is the field one???

But if you can walk me through anything would greatly appreciate it.

Just fired genset and hose is weeping pretty good, I can do a quick patch job field repair with some hose clamps I am sure but would rather not run it until I can properly replace the hoses!

[Glenn]

What is your alternator set up? Do you have a dedicated house alternator?

Generally if a coach does not have OTR which I suspect is the case with yours you wil have the large 50DN as the house alternator and a second smaller alternator for the chassis.

The 50DN is easy to check, and since the regulator is external if it is found the alternator is OK changing the regulator is a simple operation. Do you feel comfortable doing electrical checks?

[Glenn]

DKO, thanks for chiming in, I read your cradle swap thread on another forum, thanks for clarifying the weights!

Thanks all for the input, it is appreciated, I want to run this really safe and smooth. My lable is 20k/1500 at 6.5 inches. Looking at a few different trailers right now, but 18K will be the very max and that will be for partial trips, only about half my mileage will be loaded and not all of that to capacity.

I will be purchasing a tongue weight hitch this week…and after looking at more XL2’s I see my hitch is standard Prevost kit…and by the looks of it all saw little use.

With the bus in the air last night got a great oppurtiunity to have a good look at the stucture and how it is all put together and whats what….really informative.

One thing I am looking at is an air safe hitch, seems to be good reviews on other forums.

airsafehitches.com

Interestlingly they sell a 2″ one that is rated at 20K…only drawback seems to be it puts a bit further back at 8.5″

not sure how much it will save both bus and trailer from abuse, but some I am sure…I run a cody cushion airbag setup on my gooseneck right now and it helps alot.

Once I get it all sorted I will report back, but average trailer load probably going to be about 15k, all will depend on if I get the aluminum trailer I want or a heavier steel one…..to be continued!

[Glenn]

Looks like the older style car door switches to turn on the interior lights. So try an auto parts store or antique car catologs.

[Glenn]

I see Liberty’s Emerald coach has sale pending on web site…..glad to see another convertor out there.

[Glenn]

It is a 2001….came with 20k cradle from Prevost. I will post pictures later.

[Glenn]

Thanks Jon, when I connected the new contactor, I checked the connections around it pretty good.

[Glenn]

Could very well be an air problem, but I cured the same problem on mine by cleaning and lubricating the tracks the floor runs in.

[Glenn]

Here’s an article on Phase I and Phase II upgrades to FMVSS 121 which governs heavy vehicle stopping performance.

The new standard, effective Aug, 2013, puts an upper limit of 250′ from 60 mph on the most common tractor trailure configurations which populate our highways. It’s interesting that vendors can attain this performance with simple upgrades to existing drum brake technology. Disc brakes bring these stopping distances way down with a safety margin of from 10 to 30%. Imagine stopping your bus in 180′. I haven’t been able to find any third party testing of modern day Prevost coaches but I’d bet they can stop well short of 250′ from 60 mph, fully loaded. The transmission retarder adds yet additional stopping power. In search of a deserted highway! 🙂

Not to downplay the seriousness of this issue; simply fascinated with the technology. We’re still way short of the typical automobile stopping performance. The answer is to always choose the lane that gives you the most stopping distance, be vigilant, maintain suitable traffic gaps, watch your speed, and maintain your equipment.

[Glenn]

I think a regular outlet is going to be required because if I understand the problem our transfer switches are the issue.

[Glenn]

I still have some funeral home fans. They operate manually. No Crestron. No mother boards, no moving parts.