Glenn
Forum Replies Created
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I think the delam issue for a buyer is to be treated as something to address, but not to let it be a deciding factor except if the dollars get in the way.
In a nutshell I don’t think there is a model year range. Having said that, I also don’t think every XLII is a problem. I say that based on feedback from owners who have had their coaches tested and have gotten a clean bill of health.
But nobody should buy an XLII without first verifying there is no issue. However if there is an issue the Prevost service center will forward their findings to Canada where a decision will be made to determine how much “good will” Prevost will provide.
Coaches that have the delamination repair and the rivet cover strips installed are likely to never become a problem. If a coach you are seeking has those repairs, verify the repairs were done by Prevost and you are good to go. I mention verify the repairs were done by Prevost because some repair shops have advertised they will do the repairs and Prevost has made it abundantly clear their process is extensive, proprietary, and can only be done by Prevost personell at a Prevost service center. I have seen ads by others claiming the technicians are factory trained and while that might be true about the chassis, it is not true about the repair process.
But I digress. If the coach you are looking at needs repairs and Prevost has determined the cost and their level of participation then the selling price (your purchase price) will depend on what you and the seller negotiate. Typically Prevost has not paid for the paint work as a result of the repairs so make sure that price is considered when negotiating for a coach.
There is an extensive thread on this forum about the delam issue.
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Gman…..I would be very reluctant to provide information on your dryer because there are so many different types that have been used, and then to go even further if a previous owner had an issue with it a different one could have been installed. I never had the same dryer on any of my three coaches. Your best bet is to contact Prevost parts with your VIN and let them tell you what you have. It has been my experience with the parts guys that if you ask for the trade number, and not just the Prevost number you can then shop for generic replacements if you wish.
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John,
I just logged in and saw your post. I walked outside to see if I could find you and they were backing your bus in. That’s a good sign. Do you need the use of a car? Mine is right here today. Email me or call me if I can help.
Davy
316-992-4658
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John,
Did you make it? I pulled into Prevost Nashville late Sunday night. I saw a Uhaul trailer with an ATV and my heart sank. I hope that is not you.
Davy
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At the beginning of this year, Huntington Bank in Central Indiana would loan 90% of the appraised value or 90% of a dealer invoice price on a Prevost. Up to 180 months at 7.25% at the time O.A.C.
The one we were looking at and eventually purchased was a 96 model.
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I appreciate the reply,
Mine will go to 1100 if I put it on the floor on a hill, and I think it would stay there if I did not lift. I usually let off enough to stay around 900 but I do lose some speed on a hard hill.
I too stay about 1700 – 1800 cruising and about 400 – 600 on pyrometer.
Sure hope I find a leak,,,,,,,, had stuff to do today but will hit it hard in the morning.
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Certain DDEC set ups will allow the engine to produce more horse power when cruise is engaged. Using cruise on steep grades IMO is not wise, the cruise is not intelligent, it just tries to maintain a speed and will throw whatever it can at the engine to do that.
If nothing else it will be the least fuel efficient way up a hill…
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Don’t have a boost gauge on my 1991 Silver 8V92TA and wonder how often your pyro hits 1100 degrees? Never seen mine over 900 when pulling these hills around Central Texas and thought that was high. Keep the RPM’s around 1850 when cruising. Plenty of power from take off to cruise. Just wondering. Also pull F150 super Crew Ford behind. Now that I said that if will go though the roof.
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Gerard,
Looking forward to reading your post after OKC, “Everything you need to know about buying, running and maintaining a bus”. Looks like it will be a rather long one!
Seriously, I know where you are coming from when you say there is such a lot to take in, I am in the same boat. Having said that, after only a couple of months, it is starting to make sense. Mainly due to the great people on PC.
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got mine thru passanger side door. A little tight but biggest job was getting roll pin driven out. It came out in two pieces. Just tap new one in with very small hammer. Bob
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OMG, didn’t know anyone else with super singles! I run 365’s (90psi), 455’s (110psi) and 315’s (110psi). I changed to 365’s for what I perceive to be a much improved ride. I wore out the original 455’s in about 50K but I put on the XTE trailer tire (less tread) at Michelin’s recommendation because they would supposedly run cooler and quieter, which it did. Just installed the normal truck drive tire tread (can’t remember the letter designation) because it has 50% more tread. It is noisy…I can hear them in front with my window open. I’m hoping I don’t get a complaint from the boss when she’s sleeping in the rear and we’re moving.
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That’s great Andre I did not have magnum control just power tech ECU and it would not work with my inverters my next try was going to be the magnum auto start with temp start , glad you got it working wish I still had royale to try it…
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I’d want to know where the lost coolant went, pull your dipstick and make sure it’s not in the crankcase before you operate the engine. I had a situation where a o-ring on a cylinder liner broke and allowing coolant into the engine oil.
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The abrasive cut off wheel will surely work but you will probably end up with grind marks (nicks here and there) from poor aim.
You could also try an air hammer (cheap Harbor Freight type) with chisel.
If the only problem is the slak adjuster in the way, now is the time to get familiar with it. Take it off and clean it up, lube it and understand it. If you need a new rubber boot, install one.
Remove the nut and change that chamber. Reinstall the adjuster and adjust it.
JIM