[Gerald]

I have a new in the box xl windshield best offer gets it, I live about 40 miles from the oyster fest , cruisair compressor, also a free liberty water softner

[Gerald]

We get a strong rubber smell when we tow our Equinox but when we tow our GMC Z71 there is none.

Always wandered why.

[Gerald]

Those two guys are the best and will never let you down.

We at PC value their work and dedication to helping folks.

[Gerald]

Gerald,

I did replace just the bearings on the pulleys a few years back. I pressed out the old bearings and they were easily obtained at a local bearing supply. Detroit told me they were no longer available and wanted me to upgrade to the auto tension.

I suppose pulley alignment and new bearings would solve your problem.

[Gerald]

It is yours John. Until I hear from Ron I’ll consider the remaining two his, unless he just wants one.

This math really gets confusing.

[Gerald]

I go every year. Would not miss it. If you like cars and watching people scottsdale is the place to be in January.

[Gerald]

Mine has a small air valve that lowers and raises the bumper. The valve is located in the compartment below the driver, near the steering box.

[Gerald]

Info: We have an H3-40 with an 8V92TA. The bus was built in Aug 1990. It has a +/- 15 boost gauge which I presume is factory original. Obvioulsy it has never seen a negative reading. When we got the coach in 2009 the boost was rarely above 12 even on grades. Turned out to be an exhaust manifold gasket. When W. W. Williams went to replace it the exhaust manifold came off in three pieces. They found a good used one and put it on. Boost was then routinely off the end of the scale (15+) until recently. Last few weeks traveled from MI to AZ and was getting +14 on grades. Turned out the manifold pressure hose from the turbo to the boost sensor had failed. It was so brittle it crumbled. Replaced it (on the road) and it runs like a new engine.

So here’s my question: Can I buy a boost gauge (of the right physical size for the dash) that goes from 0 to +30 and simply replace the gauge that is there? Or is there more to it than that? Like other posts here, I am a former (private) pilot and I am used to having gauges that give me accurate information.

Thanks. ~Bruce

[Gerald]

What – Gasp….. You Liberty guys don’t have the jump button on your dash?

Dodger – good boy…

[Gerald]

Dean, you might want to also check the air bags on the Gen-set. Ours leaked down so fast that I shut off the Aux when parked and started it only if I needed the generator. The only other thing it was needed for when parked was the pocket doors which we really don’t use much. They caused the Aux to run rvery 10-12 min. Given the amount of oil though, Al might be on to something and you might very well have more than one problem. Geo.

[Gerald]

Bottom half of the valve cover removed:

You can get a big 3/4 ratchet with extension in the lower pulley to bar the engine over with the bumper on, but it is much easier to remove the bumper:

There are two parts to the Jakes, front and rear, here you see I have the fronts removed:

You will replace a few of the bolts to hold down the valvetrain to perform the check and adjustment once you remove the Jakes.

:

Now both Jakes removed, ready to start checking the valve adjustment and injector height:

Using the method as described in the DD manual, you can set valves on one cylinder while setting injector height on another and so forth and so on. The manual describes this, for example, set valves on 1, set injector on 5 (I forget off top of my head so check manaual)

,Bar the engine over and move on to next set, and repeat. Here you can see setting injector height , the injector height tool is seen to the left of the wrench. You need to pay attention to getting the tool in the small alighnment hole to get a proper reading.

:

Here you can see adjusting exhaust valves:

Follow the sequence as outlined in the manual and bar the engine over…the engine is not difficult to turn over:

Once you set all valve heights replace the Jakes and make sure to relieve any oil pressure in the solenoids before attempting to set lash. This is outlined in the manual, also there is a Jake supplement you can find on line.

:

This is a close up of the exhaust adjustment on Jakes:

Be sure to make sure electrical connections are all routed correctly and firmly connected, this is all very simple.

Re assemble everything while taking great care not to leave any debris or tools around valvetrain etc, use a little extra silicone around the cam area on the valve cover as sealing pressure is a bit less there. Replacing the valve cover gasket is optional, mine was in nice shape so I re-used it…no leaks, but if I had to do it over again I would have replaced it since it will probably be a looong time before this valve cover comes off again.

And that is about it. Hardest part may have been getting acess to bedroom, and learning how to contort yourself to get at everything. Laying down in bedroom made easy adjustments to the rear cyclinders.

The result?

So far biggest thing I noticed on first drive was better throttle response and a huge difference in how the bus idled. It is much smoother at idle now, noticeably so, when you are stopped and back in the bedroom or bath it is a different experience.

Power is slightly better, but very close to how it was before adjustment, the Jakes feel about the same but mine always felt strong.

MPG: I am going to go out on a limb and say I am picking up 3/10ths. I track MPG like a hawk and we are getting into winter fuel, cold temps and LOTS of wind. I went through incredible wind on my last trip which killed MPG, before that I was doing much better, all other conditions were about the same.

So bottom line, was a pretty straight forward project with good results, wish I had done it sooner when I bought the bus with 65K on it.

[Gerald]

I just had a coach that was driving me crazy trying to find the leak. I use ultrasound when possible, however on this coach it has a lot of electronic noise that makes it difficult to find using this….Soap found it leaking out the head of the aux compressor….

[Gerald]

That explains it Tom,

he’s converting to NG with the help of driver imput……opps , I mean driver output and surges from the 180 gallon poop tank, caused by his regular feedings of Geritol. he’ll be pushing the bus another .5 mpg.

[Gerald]

You could take it to Royale Phoenix in Elkhart IN call them Glen Bergen is a electrical genius they have a shop not to far from you they worked for royale for years and have a shop that works on prevost give them a call he will know when he tests it 1-574-206-1216 work or cell 1-574-612-6057

Liberty is in Chicago do not know if they work on anything else but Libertys Jeff Rowes is not that far from u either he is in Knoxville 541 miles away from you I would take it to him first if that’s to far take it to Glen in Elkhart IN either one will do great job for u they are 112 miles from Chicago to Elkhart

[Gerald]

Yes Glen we have big gen for the buildings up at house and bunkhouse and shop up here but where the bus is down below no gen it’s on a different transformer than the house