[Georges]

thanks. also where are you all puting your inverters. i was going to put all my stuff where my a/c condensor and fan where since that is well vented

thanks petar

[Georges]

Rodger

Leave early, like 0 dark 30!! It was 101 today in Springfield and is supposed to be 102-103 tomorrow!! Best of luck on the drive back. Salina is just 5.5 hours away.

Rob

91 LeMirage XL

Missouri

[Georges]

Here ya go, Northern Tool:

[Georges]

I am not advocating you ignore the advice or information you receive from DD mechanics but it bothers me when “professionals” spread fertilizer around.

Whatever your problems are causing the lack of throttle response or a low oil pressure code they are not related to a cold engine. What is correct is that you do need to get a little heat into the engine and transmission before you move down the road, but that applies to folks living in MN in January. Where you are located excessive idling to get the engine warmed up is not required. Start it, let it idle for a minute or so to insure oil circulation, another minute or so at high idle to get a little heat into it and you are good to go. Getting the engine up to temperature is nice, but the best way is to start driving moderately.

If it is not responding to the throttle the throttle sensor may be part of your problem, but a turbo boost sensor may also be a part of it. On your engine the turbo boost sensor is on the passenger side, a small playing card sized black plastic device that needs a good hose connection between it and the manifold. If the turbo boost sensor has failed or is failing your throttle will not respond. On an older coach I would check all connections. Once you are confident connections are clean and tight then verify the sensors are functioning, including the oil pressure sensor.

[Georges]

As you can see by the number of days since I first asked the question, this has been a difficult job. Obviously, my time has not been anywhere near continuous on this job, but even at a skilled shop this has to be several hours. This motor is riveted (4) to the regulator and I seriously doubt that any mechanic could drill out these four rivets by accessing from the service door outside and below the window with the unit in place. Having realized this, the driver seat and the interior panel below the window had to be removed for access and removal of the motor/regulator unit.

I would definitely recommend to anyone taking this job to a shop, that they get a ” not more than” estimate.

[Georges]

What Tom said.

But I agree with Ed with respect to the batteries. I don’t agree with having to keep a charger on them at all because if your chassis batteries will not hold their charge for months you have loads on them you should not have.

[Georges]

I was just pulling your chain Big Boy….

[Georges]

Terry I avoid heavy traffic at all cost. DC can have bad traffic at any hour of the day!

64 to 81 is easy traveling. But another route is 95n to 17 in Fredricksburg to 81.

17 is scenic if you like that kind of traveling. You will find some traffic lights along the route but the

speed limit is 55 or so. Rick

[Georges]

located on the site?

[Georges]

I meant to say the temp shows below 195, since there is so little space between the 180 and 195 marks and my eyes are not as good as they once were, I would say it probably is running closer to the 185-190 range.

After cleaning it out, the mechanic purposely drove it in very heavy stop and go traffic for an hour in 90 plus temps in Orlando and said it never climbed past 190..

[Georges]

Georges,

Permit me to be the first to burst your bubble. If you have an 8V92 running on the flat terrain in FL and you are seeing 195 temps you have a problem.

It has been quite a while since we had our 8V92 coach but my brain seems to recall on all but the hottest days climbing long steep hills I cycled between 175 to 185 and if I am correct it was usually closer to 180 to 185. Ten degrees doesn’t sound like much and could even be a gauge error, but my gut tells me you need to be in the market for a radiator or new core, sooner rather than later.

How about some 8V92 guys either confirming what I just said or slapping me for giving out bad information?

[Georges]

What I recall, the inverter starts at 14.2 and ends up at 13.8, just a good guess.

Just seems to me that after a night of inverter charge the batteries last longer then a day of driving, just a good guess.

[Georges]

Problem seems to have been solved. Found an excellent,knowledgeable and honest diesel guy in Sanford FL.

It only needed a thorough cleaning, does not exceed 195 now.

PM me if anybody needs his services.

[Georges]

Although this is interesting stuff, over the long haul of 5 or 6
years with Lifelines, I doubt it will have any impact on battery
longevity or condition. I spoke to my contact at Lifeline regarding
the use of a BMS system and they neither recommend or endorse the
need, providing your inverter/charger is properly setup and the
batteries are charged/discharged correctly. Same goes for the battery
optimizers with Lifeline, there is no benefit with AGM’s.

Lifeline deals in a gazillion batteries for the Military, Marine
and Aviation industry and if these systems were of benefit, they
would probably be selling them. There are of course needs for a BMS,
such as a boat that is monitored from long distance when not in use
for a long period of time. Same could apply to a bus, but we normally
aren’t too far away for extended periods of time.

Just my two cents and I’ll be glad to help you start out with new
batteries:)

[Georges]

Two (2) Items here:

Compressor shafts at the “o” ring seal leak due to… age. Fresh seal replacement solves the problem.

If the shaft has a ridge cut in it this will have to be examined to make a call on just seal replacement or entire compressor. As for repair no big deal. Maybe finding a replacement compressor ….could be. Keep in mind A/C systems are repaired all the time and leaks can began at any time. I would not blame the shop as the source of the leak problem. A/C repairs these days are tested with electronic leak detectors after service and that checking equipment can smell a fart at 100 yards. After running the A/C and pressure builds all things change.

Back in the service days, we had customers that just recharged the A/C once a year and never did the needed repairs. If you have a 134A system this is maybe all you want to do. With R 12 the freon expense would be a little expensive.

Did you check on e-bay for a compressor ?