George
Forum Replies Created
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SID 214 does map to “Real Time Clock Backup Battery Voltage Low”.
This is just the internal battery to keep the real time clock operating when disconnected from power. Should not impact operation. Some statistics may not have correct timestamp when you disconnect ECM from external battery (e.g. during change of chassis batteries).
The ECM battery can be replaced for about $300. Not sure I’d bother. Example http://dieselcontrolservice.com/index.php/detroit-diesel-ecm-services/detroit-diesel/detroit-diesel-ddec-iv-ddec-v-internal-lithium-battery-replacement/
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Did you check the coolant level? Low coolant will set off the check engine warning.
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There is no standard situation when it comes to buying a Prevost conversion. To assume 35% of the coach cost has to be spent to bring it up to some presumed acceptable condition is as wrong as assuming the amount spent will be 0%.
First it is important to sort out personal wants from restoring the mechanical aspects of the house or chassis. As a seller I had no desire to finance a buyer’s need to install special flooring because he did not like the perfectly good flooring in the coach. If the coach flooring was trash that is one thing, but just because it wasn’t the right color that was the buyers responsibility in my mind.
As to mechanical condition coaches range from poorly maintained coaches with no records or receipts and that have to be assumed as needing everything. At the other end of the spectrum are coaches that have had a documented, progressive maintenance program that have nothing due such as an oil change, tires, coolant change, etc. Again, the buyer who thinks he is going to both find that coach, plus get a seller to sell at 35% below the coach value is going to be disappointed. That buyer is going to watch a lot of coaches sold out from under him.
I have yet to run into a new (as in first time buyer) who even had a clue about the extent of maintenance required, who to best do the work, who to best evaluate the need, and how to determine what was truly needed.
Every used coach purchase is going to be based on a visual inspection, a true systems and mechanical inspection, a detailed review of any and all records, and almost as important as everything else combined a coach that is equipped and laid out to suit the buyers needs for the planned use. In other words any used coach purchase is going to be a true compromise because there are so many moving parts to making a wise and successful purchase it is going to involve as much luck as skill and a plan.
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Dash AC
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Does the XL2 buses run all 315’s or are they like the H’s and run 365’s on steer and tag, and what is your weights on the XL2 buses?
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Electric or Manual shades? What brand?
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Steer should be around 110 (or better).
Drive around 100
Tag 85-90
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Chuck, the Garber filter is the filter that comes with every new Aqua Hot heater complete with fixture but no ball valves. There is one in the top left hand corner of Art”s picture too.
Can be ordered from Aqua Hot or any water separating filter of your choice will work. For many years, Aqua Hot used the Racor R12T filter with plastic bowl with drain.
Hope this helps you Sir.
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Dick: yes
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The vast majority of conversions do not have OTR. Liberty predominantly provides OTR on its conversions with Marathon and Vantare use OTR on occasion.
The advantage is if you have a heat soaked coach, real Prevost OTR has so much capacity the interior temps are meat locker cold quickly. If a coach does not have OTR, it becomes a numbers game. There is no way a heat soaked coach is going to be cooled as quickly or completely with house A/C units. Their 45,000 (or 60,000 if four units) is just not going to equal the average BTU output of the bus OTR system.
One of the biggest problems with internet advice and information is defining what is acceptable. To me I want my coach interior at or below 70 degrees. If my windows do not have condensation on the outside I am likely too warm. Others may not even consider thinking about turning on the A/C systems until temps rise to 85 inside the coach. Obviously the best A/C system for a coach is defined by the coach purchaser.
Your use of the coach also plays a large role in how you want it equipped. A lot of folks who use their coach as a second home and usually park or store it on an RV resort, do not need or want OTR because they are almost exclusively using it when parked and the 1/2 bay the OTR system occupies may be more important for storage than OTR.
Someone who does not have OTR, but travels a lot and likes things cool is going to be better served with roof airs and running the generator because roof airs are more efficient than CAs when on the road.
Each buyer has to make their own determination about what is best.
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This is a topic that has been explored a lot over the years and there tends to be some differences of opinion relating to nomenclature. I will respond with my interpretation of what is meant by the various terms.
When I say bus or Prevost OTR I mean a whole bus heat and A/C system that uses a 6 cylinder Carrier compressor with a 1/4 bay condenser located the third bay back on earlier coaches and ahead of the drive axle on X3 coaches. That system has an evaporator located on the opposite side of the coach, same bay.
The Prevost installed OTR has A/C output ratings ranging from the high 80,000 BTU range on older vintage coaches to over 106,000 BTU on later models.
A Prevost coach that does not have OTR will have what is referred to as “driver’s air”, and for A/C beyond that the coach operator will have to depend on converter installed A/C.
That leads into a topic for debate. Some owners, generally those who may have been told by the coach salesman believe their conversion has OTR. Usually the conversion is a Country Coach, but other converters may also supplement the Preovst installed driver’s air with their own engine driven A/C system that has a couple of evaporators installed in the coach, usually midships and aft to add additional cooling. That converter installed system generally uses a truck type A/C compressor with far less cooling potential than the Prevost OTR system.
The systems described above are engine driven. The A/C compressors get their power only when the bus engine is running.
House A/C systems are usually called “roof airs” which are as stated roof mounted units with evaporators and condensers combined into a single unit and commonly used on conventional RVs. They are powered by a 120VAC power circuit, and output is within the 13,000 to 15,000 BTU range. They have pluses and minuses, but generally speaking they operate more efficiently when traveling down the highway than other A/C units that draw condenser air from low, usually above a heat soaked highway.
Split units, almost always Cruisair units have bay or front bumper area mounted condenser units, and remotely located evaporator units which provide the cool air from within the coach interior. Usually one evaporator will be mounted over the entry door area near the ceiling, with one or two mounted midships, and the last evaporator unit located aft in the bedroom. The Cruisairs are generally in the 13,500 BTU range, use 120VAC power and their benefit is quieter operation.
A third A/C option is a bay mounted unit, not unlike a miniature version of a house unit which is ducted. Those units are generally in the 26,000 BTU range and are less common than roof or CA units.
On coaches with only Prevost driver’s air and converter installed roof or CA units only to keep the balance of the coach cool it is necessary to run one or more house air conditioners from inverters or by running the generator even while driving.
If a coach came with R12 systems, a conversion to 134A is possible but that is dependent upon the condition and type of hoses and always requires a complete change of compressor oil. Some changes from R12 to 134 require a new dryer and expansion valve, but some owners have made the conversion without changing them. A switch to 134 from 12 usually is at the expense of about 15% cooling system efficiency.
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Talk about needing 2 tires right now while at EAA and this was my rapid delivery, talk about service. Flew them right in no fat marshmallow man just kidding.
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Assuming you are locked in. Start bus to build air pressure then re lock air lock and then unlock deadbolt. Use deadbolt or airlock in the future, not both.
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The way you ask the question is difficult to answer. If all maintenance work is done by others like Prevost it will be a little pricey compared to doing your own work or having your own employees do it.
Then to confuse it further what are your standards? Do you replace tires when they age out or do you push them risking failure? What about air bags? Brake chambers? Valves, etc? Some do not do preventive maintenance but wait until something leaks or fails. Do you do fluid and filter changes to a strict schedule earlier than what is called for or do you push the limits? Some folks think nothing of going far more years on coolant or transmission fluids.
I never ever want a roadside repair so I change perfectly good parts based on evidence I have gathered that suggests a safe life. I think my maintenance schedule is in the articles section and knock on wood, it has served me well. Costs are defrayed because I am doing all my own work with few exceptions.
Truth be known, Unless a coach is an older vintage your annual depreciation is going to be greater in cost than everything else combined.
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Have it rebuilt as a spare.