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There are some interesting scenarios with BMS controlled Li-Ion systems.

What happens if the BMS in a battery decides it reached full charge and cuts off the battery? There would be a voltage spike in the system. It may not damage the alternator diodes as long as there are still DC loads connected. But sensitive loads may not enjoy the spike.

Since the BMS’s in drop in Li-Ion do not talk to each other, batteries will go off-line at slightly different times depending on their individual charge situation. This should help limit the voltage spike.

With none of the batteries connected, alternator voltage may become unstable as loads turn on and off. (The batteries act as a huge capacitor while connected, keeping the voltage stable).

It would be interesting to connect a cheap logging voltage monitor to see what happens when the batteries decide they are full but you are going down the highway turning DC loads on/off.

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I believe life blue makes a 4d sized lifepo4 battery.

relion used to step in to some discussion boards back in the day. They have not in more recent years. My guess is that because they are making a “drop in” and all the so called advantages of drop in necessitates them taking some liberties with marketing to sell the battery. They know the underlying technology of the drop in is the same as the individual cells being bonded together (similar to say people using 6v cells to get to 12/24/48v (or the fact that batteries have 3x 2v cells to get to 6) systems.

Exact same concept along with some additional bms circuitry to cut off high and low as a last resort. But a mocked up cells and bms combo does the same. but they have to dance around a bit because of their limitations. But that’s my opinion only.

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Let’s stop the point to counter point bickering and move ahead with the positive aspects of Lithium.

I have taken on the Lithium business because I realize lead acid is no longer the standard and if I don’t add that product line to my battery business, I will be left in the dust at some point. The Lithium concept isn’t new to me, but applying that technology to the various coach configurations has a lot of variable. I’m learning, not a Lifepo4 expert and will certainly make mistakes.

Jon got exposed to Relion by me yakking about my need to add Lithium to my business, or go sit on the porch with the little dogs. He helped me with my booth at the show and we both drank from the fire hose while spending 2 days with Relion. He was so impressed with Lithium he decided to upgrade his Liberty to Relion. He’s now sharing that install information and attempting to help people better understand what we know is coming. I’m not familiar with anyone else who has tackled this upgrade for an AGM 24v Liberty. Yes I understand Liberty has used Lithium as OEM since around 2008.

Anthem, you obviously have hands on Lithium experience and I assume are a proponent of converting from AGM. You had a less than happy Relion experience and we all understand that. What we need going forward is input about the advantages of Lithium and how the upgrade may or may not be the best choice of certain coach owners regardless who the battery manufacturer may be.

So let’s change the tone here boys and move forward.

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The Prevost pricing is better than the advantage program, but the labor is charged at 1.75 hours per tire to mount and balance. So $233 to mount and balance one tire is unbelievable. At first i thought it was 1.75 hours for all 8. Which I thought was incredible, but was soon informed of the each tire. Then I asked if that also included a brake check and was informed it did not…

So do you do diligence and total the whole cost of tires and mounting.

I think the advantage price was $6 or $8 more than Prevost, but 1 shop I called was $50 per tire to mount and balance.

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So it meets the regulations but the man has to drive in the dark for several seconds to switch his lighting. Is there not a regulation that requires that the road be lit continuously? Cant he just change the signal wires on the lighting relays or something? I am no doubt displaying my ignorance on the complexity of newer coaches but this is bad news!

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Whew! I’m glad you cleared that up Mark because I was hoping I wasn’t losing it by not noticing the delay in full brightness.

Now the original post needs to be re-examined to determine if something was done wrong with the conversion.

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I do not see the choice as black and white. I have had a radiator recored, and I have also had enough of my coolant systems apart to know it can look like new regardless of age if the coolant was correct and well maintained.

The radiator top and bottom need to be inspected. If the fins are corroded or the tubes are failing it is likely from external corrosives such as road salt.

If the radiator ends look good and are not damaged by corrosion, internally or externally I see a recore as a viable option. If however there is any damage or corrosion a new one is the only way to go.

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I’am on the Mark (Mr Duluth ) bench.

Do not go with a re-core using the old tanks, there 20 years old.

They are playing on you. Without the re-core choice they lost business.

A new Prevost radiator will have a national warranty. If by chance it fails…A change out can be handled at probably any HD truck shop.

Is the re-core warranty 90 days ?

Just my opinion…for what its worth.

AL

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Every way of purchasing a coach has its advantages.

A converter selling its own brand of coach is likely to be the most expensive, but that converter is very likely to stand behind the sale and fix whatever glitches show up for a while after the sale. That converter is also able to make sure everything is working, and if not make it right prior to the sale.

A broker who specializes in Prevost coaches (not some guy selling cars that also sells anything else with wheels) brings some expertise to the table. Often the broker goes over a consignment very carefully, or if the broker owns the coach goes over it in even greater detail and add some value. While most sales are final it is probable any problems that turn up in an inspection can be repaired before money changes hands. A qualified broker can also provide limited training, but not as detailed or as extensive as a converter can.

Buying from an individual owner has the potential to be the least expensive but it also has the potential to be the most expensive, especially if the buyer is new to Prevost ownership or doesn’t take the necessary time to do a detailed inspection. I have looked at a number of privately owned coaches and all have been described as well maintained. That stuff should be bagged and put on my garden. If a buyer can locate a very well maintained coach that has the detailed records to support the claim the risk and the total cost can go down significantly but the entire burden is on the buyer to determine the coach condition.

I have bought my coaches in every way described above and I am sure I would do it every way again because each purchase had its advantages and disadvantages.

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See below a copy of the email message that I just sent to GSC.

Good morning,
I am an RV person (Prevost XLV Country Coach) and have recently gotten the news that the fuel discount program that I use has been cancelled with Pilot and Flying J due to a contract issue with the Good Sam Club. This is to inform you that I will be severing all ties with Camping World and the Good Sam Club. Not only am I avoiding doing business with you, I will use whatever influence that I might have to influence others to avoid CW and GSC also. Have a nice day.
John A. Carroll, Jr.

Here’s the link.

https://www.goodsam.com/contact/

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All great feedback!!! Thanks so much!

Day #3 Update

Radiator shop says radiator is too far gone to fix. Options are replace (Prevost has one in Nashville) or recore which the radiator shop can do. Recore is at least $1,300 less expensive. I’m leaning towards recore.

Asking those who have recored a Prevost radiator … good move? Work out OK in long run? Or was it a mistake? Do it again?

Looking for quick feedback. Pulled recore trigger late this afternoon, but can pull the bullet back first thing in morning.

PS: wish I was in Vonore, but I’m not.

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My bus does NOT have the cross brace. My bus is a 1995 chassis, S-5665, an XL 40 footer. I have the same engine as Dick and Craig, 470hp 12.7 Liter S60. The difference is their buses are 45 footers.

I guess the 45 footers have the cross brace, 40s don’t?

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If someone told you that was the real price the police need to be involved.

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I’m pretty sure I have never seen air when it has escaped so I am not certain a cell phone will see it either, but I do know the sound of escaping air will bounce around a lot and its source can be difficult to pin down.

What has helped me target specific areas or components is the use of a stethoscope. Pointing the receiving end around large areas with an audible air leak is a very fast way to end up zeroing in on the leak.

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The Balmar regulator is the way to go for the house batteries.

It has a specific charging protocol for Lifeline batteries.

I would recommend one to anyone.

Put one on my 99 CC and it worked great.

Love my new avatar Tom