[Dick]

I would REALLY hesitate to cut the power on the computer. That happened to us as a result of the SurePower recall, and it blew up the mini computer. Best bet would be to call Marathon tech support. They’ve been very responsive and helpful to us.

[Dick]

I have the SilverLeaf Glass Dash not the PC version and I was told by them that that year model coach will not display the transmission position.

Every thing else is a go.

[Dick]

Joel is right, but if you do as he suggests remember to rotate the rears you have to release the emergency brake and that means you need to use wheel chocks to prevent it from rolling. And of course never get under the coach unless the chassis is properly supported.

[Dick]

Al:

I could see them on my computer, but reposted them again. Let me know!

[Dick]

Dick, I knew we needed rear shocks and already had the Koni’s on the front on this bus. My comparison of Koni vs Prevo on the front was with our previous bus. Noticed the difference. When I asked Jeff about putting Koni on the drive and tag he told me I wouldn’t notice the difference that you would in the front, except in my pocketbook. As far as I can tell he was right and spent the difference on Centmatics…good choice. Geo.

[Dick]

Marius,

Do not overcomplicate a simple issue.

The bottom line is if your slector switch is in the road position you should have power to the center coil on the five solenoid manifold. Make sure you have a coil of the appropriate voltage and the center solenoid valve should be open. If it is supplying air your ride height valves should be active.

I test as follow. With the switch in the key on and road position I should have power to the center coil. If I do I crack the air line from that solenoid to verify it is open by virtue of air escaping. If you have issues with it coming to ride height I believe your vintage has five port Norgren valves that shift accessory air to the ride height valves and thus to or from the air bags.

Whatever is in between is window dressing unless it doesn’t work.

[Dick]

Well said Dick.

Here are my driver’s license requirements as a resident of
South Carolina.

A class E driver
license allows you to operate a non-commercial truck or motor home with a gross
vehicle weight (GVW) more than 26,000 lbs. A class F driver license allows you
to operate a non-commercial truck or motor home with a towed unit with a combined
gross vehicle weight (GVW) more than 26,000 lbs.

To obtain a Class E
or F driver license, you must pass a knowledge test, an off-road maneuvers
(basic skills) test, and an on-road test.

If you are applying
for a Class F driver license, you must also bring the unit you plan to tow
behind the truck or motor home.

If the weight of the
vehicle(s) is more than 26,000 lbs. you must have a commercial driver license
to operate a motor home used in commerce.

A DOT medical card is
not required to obtain a Class E or F driver’s license.

I have a learner’s permit (received after completing the
written test) – good for 1 year. I have
1 year to become proficient on the road, and then will need to take the two
part driving test.

Why am I going through this process, unlike any of my SC RV
friends? Well, it’s the law is a good
start. It also has given me some basic
skills to protect my family other others.
Also, if I were to have an accident, who doesn’t think the insurance
company will try and deny my claim if they can. No class E and F, no coverage
for my bus.

If you want to play the game, need to follow the rules.

Eric

[Dick]

Jon…Back when I flew, it was a matter of routine that I would “pull” my engine (Continental IO-520) through before starting it up. I would take a blade and pull it to turn the engine over several times, supposedly to “oil” the engine surfaces to prevent some of the wear that takes place with a cold and un-oiled engine.

Too bad we can’t do the same thing with our Series 60’s.

The only thing I do is to try and avoid the starts when it’s only for a few minutes.

[Dick]

use dermil type tool but grind in center of bolts in body of dump valve so you won’t damage the sides that are glued in place

[Dick]

I’ll have you know I have made substantial progress in the high tech area.

There was something I had to do exactly at noon today. But I was going to be in the shop or in the office and I wasn’t going to bring the alarm we use for cooking all around with me when I got the brilliant idea my flip phone had an alarm.

IT DOES!

So I set it for noon and it worked like a charm. Who woulda thunk?????????

So find someone else who is technically challenged to pick on today.

[Dick]

Chris,

My computer is located above the driver area, it was hard to find since Marathon couldn’t remember were it was located. Mine has also been upgraded from the original computer and replaced with an industrial computer for smallpc.com. The replacement cost on mine is around 8950 and it looks like this:

If you can locate the computer, removing the power and re-booting may solve your problem. Also, check the video out cable to be sure it hasn’t come loose, mine came completely out. Once rebooted, it will take some time for it to come back to life. If you can’t find the computer, power the bus down then back up and that should reset the Techlink and computer.

I don’t have Crestron, so that may add another layer of problem solving.

[Dick]

That’s the SI series alternator for ya. Just the way it works. I went thru the same learning curve.

[Dick]

Thanks Fred – it’s my kids favorite thing to play with
when we drive through tunnels.

[Dick]

just got bad news on the headlights….apparently the Argentinian source is out so the only alternative is the TYC or Dorman which are low quality .

The original Ford OEM ’87-’91 F-150 or Bronco which is what the XL takes are no longer made.

I have to come up with a new plan.

[Dick]

Here is a look at my front bumper in the down position.